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Legendara ruta Cape - Cairo/ Cape To Cairo. Done.

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Su Shi

199 vizualizări

Trebuie sa spunem asta de la inceput: am mers repede. Ne-a fost greu uneori sa tinem pasul, emotional si cultural vorbind, atunci cand tara in care ne aflam era alta uneori la saptamana. Ruta Est se spune ca e cea ‘usoara’. Partial pentru ca o poti faci cu o masina de strada automata fara probleme. Este asfaltata in intregime, cu exceptia portiunii dintre Moyale si Marsabit, care a ‘terminat’ multe suspensii. Noua nu ne-a dat de furca in mod deosebit, si banuim ca ruta de-a lungului lacului Turkana este mai dificila si mai aventuroasa. Am evadat de cateva ori din jungla de asfalt, caci offroadul face bine la motocicleta, iar orizontul deschis la suflet. Ruta de Est este si Ruta Mai Scumpa. Nu mai sunt vizele ‘nesimtite’ din vest si centru, dar nu mai sunt nici mamaiele cu orez si fasole peste tot, ca sa faci un dus intr-un camping costa cat nu face si sunt, desigur, mai multe tentatii. Putini dintre noi cei care calatorim isi permit sa fie nomazi cu norma intreaga, si sa dea si 500 de dolari ca sa vada ultimele gorile din lume. Uneori e ca si cum ai fi saraca fetita bogata. Si e frustrant. Noroc ca dai de oamenii care sunt mai blanzi, mai calmi decat in vest. Zambetele si ospitalitatea ne-au intampinat pretutindeni, si a fost foarte usor sa campam. In afara de faptul ca ne simtim cumva multumiti ca am izbandit pe drumul asta, singurul nostru regret notabil este ca a durat cam putin. Unele dintre momentele speciale pe acest segment de calatorie au fost:

Ospitalitatea nemaipomenita a comunitatii moto din Africa de Sud si familia Jones din Johannesburg 

We need to admit this upfront: It’s been a fast one. It’s been hard to wrap our heads around it, with countries changing sometimes on a weekly basis. The East route is arguably considered The Easy One. Partly because you can basically drive a fully automatic city car all the way. It’s tarred, except for the Moyale-Marsabit stretch, hailed as the suspension-killer of Africa. Frankly, the dreaded stretch was a bore. The Turkana route sounds far more adventurous and rewarding. We eluded a few times the asphalt curse, to pamper our Yamaha in some dirt and our souls in open horizons. The East Route is also The Expensive Route. No more pricey visas, but less rice’n beans mamas, more ‘budget’ campsites, more temptations (safaris etc). Few of us out here manage to do the road and trek $500/hour gorillas while at it. Sometimes it’s like spying from the street through the windows of a posh mansion where $25 per bottle bergamot-scented sea salt is a staple. A bit frustrating. Until you meet the people. East Africans are more mellow. Smiles flow, bush camping is a treat and hospitality paramount. Besides a sense of accomplishment, we note our only regret that we didn’t linger. The highlights of this segment of ITW have been: 

The uber hospitable motorcycling community of South Africa & the Jones family from the vibrant Johannesburg

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Muntii din Lesotho si Ethiopia

Exploring Lesotho and Ethiopian highlands

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Sa vedem Delta Okavango de sus. Ne-a facut sa ne gandim serios sa ne intoarcem la scoala si sa devenim ce ne doream cand eram mici, adica naturalisti.

Flying over the Okavango Delta in flood. Made us want to go back to school and fulfill childhood fantasies of becoming naturalists. 

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Sa ne ‘intoarcem acasa’ la Rapid 14 in Zambia

Coming ‘home’ @ Zambia’s Rapid 14

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Unde ne-am dori sa revenim: Mozambique. Cei mai prietenosi si blanzi oameni, o atmosfera relaxata afro-latina si mult de explorat in nordul inca salbatic.

Destination we’d most like to return to: Mozambique. The friendliest people, a chilled afro-latino vibe and lots of wilderness to get lost into across the little visited northern provinces.

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Zanzibar. Un loc cu adevarat special. In ciuda greselilor facute de om, arhipelagul isi pastreaza farmecul. Frumusete naturala, oameni calzi, o liniste de capat de lume si (dupa parerea noastra) destinatia culinara nr. 1 din Africa.

Zanzibar. Truly a thing of beauty. In spite of all human mischiefs, the archipelago retains its allure. Natural beauty, amazing people, edge-of-the-world tranquility and (in our book) the best foodie destination across the continent.

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Sudan e grozav! Pur si simplu inimile noastre inteleg desertul si oamenii desertului.

Sudan, tamam! Desert and desert people simply speak to our hearts. 

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Cel mai surprinzator oras: Cairo. Pentru ca e cosmopolit, un Paris arab.

The most surprising city: Cairo. Because of its diversity and superb architecture, reminiscent of Paris.

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Cea mai buna mancare: caracatita in Zanzibar; cea mai buna bautura: fresh de guava si lime in Sudan; cel mai bun desert: jackfruit in Zanzibar.

Best food: Zanzibari octopus; best drink: guava & lime in Sudan; best pudding: Zanzibari jackfruit.

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Si statisticile pentru acest segment:

Calatoria 

Tari traversate: 9 (South Africa, Lesotho, Botswana, Zambia, Mozambique, Tanzania, Kenya, Ethiopia, Sudan, Egypt)     

Zile petrecute in calatorie: 136 (12.03.2012 - 25.07.2012)  

Nopti dormite in cort: 57 (minus 1 pe ferry, 78 in paturi - din care 59 couchsurfing in South Africa)  

Distanta parcursa cu motocicleta: 21,200 km  

Distanta parcursa impreuna cu alti overlanderi: 0 km (desi am intalnit destui in Nairobi)

Combustibil folosit: 1060 l 

Recorduri 

Cea mai ridicata temperatura ziua: +54C (129.2F) (Nubian desert, Sudan)

Cea mai scazuta temperatura ziua : +7C (Ethiopian Highlands)

Numar maxim de km parcursi intr-o zi: 730 (Abu Hamad - Dongola, Sudan)

Numar maxim de ore de condus intr-o zi: 14 (Addis Ababa - Lalibela, Ethiopia)

Altitudine maxima atinsa pe motocicleta: 3,251m / 10,666ft (Tlaeeng Pass, Lesotho)

Intretinere

Ulei de motor folosit: 9 l

Schimburi fitru ulei: 3

Filtru de aer curatat: 5x

Schimburi cauciuc fata: 1 (Heidenau K60 Scout, cumparat in Windhoek, totalizand 25,000 km)

Schimburi cauciuc spate: 2 (1 Heidenau K60 Scout din Windhoek pana in Durban, s-a dovedit defect, inlocuit; 1 Michelin Anakee 2 din Durban in Awasa, Ethiopia, unde am trecut pe un second hand K60, primit moca de la Chris)

Pene de cauciuc: 2 (ambele in Nairobi)

Schimburi de placute frana fata: 2 (seturi noi in JoBurg+discuri noi, datorita Linex Yamaha)

Schimburi de placute frana spate: 2

Schimburi de discuri frana spate: 0

Schimburi pinion: 2

Schimburi lant: 2 (1 de la Cape la Cairo, unde am luat unul nou de la dealerul Yamaha)

Spalat echipament moto: 5x

Spalat motocicleta: 2x

Spalat cort: 1x

Spalat saltele: 1x

Tuns: 3x

Probleme

Cazaturi offroad: 7 

Cazaturi pe asfalt: 0

Accidente usoare: 0 

Opriri de catre echipaje de politie: 1 (excluzand ca de obicei bariele Armatei). In Cairo am fost pentru prima data controlati in bagaje. Cutiile au fost varsate in strada, foliile de medicamente rupte si piesele de schimb si alte maruntisuri luate la mana, pentru ca politia sa fie sigura ca suspicios de prafuitii teroristi pe motocicleta nu au cu ce sa atenteze la linistea natiunii.

Amenzi radar: 0

Probleme tehnice majore: 0 

Probleme tehnice minore: 2 (schimbator de viteza inlocuit cu unul de scuter @ Mozambique; toba crapata @ Egipt)

Echipament degradat: 9 (lentila + laptop - Tanzania; GPS - Sudan; geanta de rezervor desirata - Africa de Sud; sac impermeabil dovedit defect la prima ploaie - Tanzania; diverse articlor de imbracaminte desirate ‘fatal’)

Probleme de sanatate: 2 (toxinfectie alimentara + piscaturi de scorpion si musca tse tse - Ana @ Ethiopia, respectiv Mozambique)

Obiecte furate: 0

Obiecte pierdute: 2 (o manusa - Lesotho; ochelari de soare - Egypt) 

Bani & Vize 

Cea mai scumpa benzina: 12 Rand/l (1,20 Euro/l) - Africa de Sud

Cea mai ieftina benzina: 1,8 pound egiptean/l (0,24 Euro/l) - Egipt

SIM-uri locale cumparate: 2 (Africa de Sud, Egipt)

Tari in care functioneaza Vodafone roaming: 8 (Africa de Sud, Botswana, Zambia, Tanzania, Kenya, Ethiopia, Sudan, Egipt)

Tari pentru care cetatenii romani nu au nevoie de viza: 3 (Botswana, Zambia, Tanzania)

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To conclude, here are the statistics for this leg:

        Journey 

Countries visited: 9 (South Africa, Lesotho, Botswana, Zambia, Mozambique, Tanzania, Kenya, Ethiopia, Sudan, Egypt)     

Number of days spent on the road: 136 (12.03.2012 - 25.07.2012)  

Nights in the tent: 57 (minus 1 on ferry, 78 in real beds - of which 59 couchsurfing in South Africa) 

Distance covered by bike: 21,200 km 

Distance covered together with other overlanders: 0 km (encountered plenty of them in Nairobi)

Fuel burned: 1060 l

Records

Highest daytime temperature: +54C (129.2F) (Nubian desert, Sudan)

Lowest daytime temperature : +7C (Ethiopian Highlands)

Record continuous riding (km): 730 (Abu Hamad - Dongola, Sudan)

Record continuous riding (hours): 14 (Addis Ababa - Lalibela, Ethiopia)

Highest altitude reached by bike: 3,251m / 10,666ft (Tlaeeng Pass, Lesotho)

Maintanance

Engine oil used: 9 l

Engine oil filters used: 3

Air filters cleaned: 5 times

Front tires used: 1 (Heidenau K60 Scout, bought in Windhoek, totaling an astonishing 25,000 km)

Rear tires used: 2 (1 Heidenau K60 Scout from Windhoek to Durban, proved faulty, replaced; 1 Michelin Anakee 2 from Durban to Awasa, Ethiopia, where I switched to a second hand K60, a give-away from JJ’s Chris)

Punctured tires: 2 (both in Nairobi)

Front brake pad sets used: 2 (new sets from JoBurg with the new discs, thanks to Linex Yamaha)

Rear brake pad sets used: 2

Rear brake disks used: 0

Sprocket sets used: 2

Chains used: 2 (1 from Cape to Cairo, where we bought a new one from the Yamaha dealer)

Biking gear washed (times): 5

Bike washed (times): 2

Tent washed (times): 1

Mattresses washed (times): 1

Haircuts: 3

Problems

Offroad crashes: 7

Onroad crashes: 0

Crashes with other vehicles: 0 

Stops by the police: 1 (excluding as usual military posts). In Cairo it was the first time our panniers got searched, medicine packaging broken and mechanical bits spread in the street, making sure that the suspiciously shabby looking motorbike terrorists would not harm the egyptian people.  

Fines for speeding: 0

Breakdowns: 0 

Minor technical issues: 2 (gear lever replaced with moped bit - Mozambique; exhaust pipe cracked - Egypt)

Damaged gear: 9 (broken prime lens - Tanzania; broken laptop - Tanzania; broken GPS - Sudan; tankbag torn - R.S.A.; duffel bag proven faulty - Tanzania; several clothing items disintegrated)

Health issues: 2 (food poisoning - Ana @ Ethiopia; scorpion & Tse Tse sting - Ana @ Mozambique)

Stolen items: 0 

Lost items: 2 (glove - Lesotho; sunglasses - Egypt) 

Money & Visa 

Most expensive fuel: 8 Rand/liter (0,80 Euro/l) - RSA

Cheapest fuel: 1,8 Egyptian pound/liter (0,24 Euro/l) - Egypt

Local SIM cards bought: 2 (RSA, Egypt)

Countries with Vodafone roaming available: 8 (South Africa, Botswana, Zambia, Tanzania, Kenya, Ethiopia, Sudan, Egypt)

Countries not requiring visa for Romanian citizens: 3 (Botswana, Zambia, Tanzania)

Oricum, in timp ce punem pe hartie toate astea, planuim deja urmatoarea miscare. Mi-am cumparat cu 1 euro ( 5 lire egiptene) casti noi pentru shuffle, si ascult Staff Benda Bilili. Cantecele sunt triste si vesele deopotriva - congolezii au talentul de a gasi ironia, si chiar umorul, in situatii fara de speranta, si fac muzica din asta. Coco imi sopteste in ureche despre sora lui ramasa in cealalta Congo, si fara sa vreau zambesc, pentru ca acum am macar o vaga idee despre ce e vorba in cantecul lui. Imi amintesc cat de frusta era viata noastra in jungla din inima Africii. Roger imi intrerupe sirul gandurilor cu inconfundabila sa ‘chitara’, fabricata dintr-o conserva de lapte praf. Ritmul e irezistibil. Ochii mi se umezesc, si simt ca inimile noastre au ramas cumva in aceasta alta Africa, cea corupta, cea dezordonata, cea greu de inteles si de traversat. Cea usor de iubit.

In any case, we’re well into planning our next move as I write this. I bought new earphones for my shuffle with 1 euro ( 5 egyptian pounds) and I’m listening to Staff Benda Bilili. The songs are both sad and joyful — the Congolese always seem to find the irony, and even the humor in often hopeless situations, and make music about them. As Coco’s unmistakable voice sings about his sister, I smile and I nod, now I am able to understand a little of what he’s talking about. I remember how raw our life in the open bush of central Africa has been. Roger’s impossibly delicate string attached to a milk tin interrupts my recollection. My limbs struggle to resist the beat. As my eyes wet, I somehow feel our hearts remained with this other Africa, the corrupt, the messy, the difficult to understand and to cross. The easy to love. 



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