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Sfarsitul verii fara de sfarsit/ The End of The Endless Summer II

Su Shi

146 vizualizări

Cape Town 11- 21/03

Aveam o gramada de facut: pasapoartele nu mai aveau suficiente pagini libere, iar motocicleta avea nevoie de ceva piese. Intai am mers la Consulatul Romaniei si primirea a depasit toate asteptarile. Consulul, dl. Silviu Rogobete, a facut eforturi substantiale pentru a ne ajuta sa continuam turul, iar sotia a fost de asemenea o gazda perfecta. Poate ca nu avem prea multe misiuni diplomatice in Africa, dar cele pe care le-am vizitat noi merita laudate. Multumim, Siviu!

We had lots of business to cater for: passport pages running out and a bike in need of spare parts. We payed a visit to the Romanina Consulate and the welcome was beyond any expectations. The Consul, Mr. Silviu Rogobete, made substantial efforts to offer us the best solution to be able to continue our tour of Africa, while his wife kindly entertained us with cake and quick bites. We may not have many diplomatic missions in Africa, but the ones we visited are top notch. Thank you, Silviu!


Multumimta pontului primit de la Charl, fanul nostru de pe advrider, am ajuns la Trac Mac, un magazin si centru de reparatii foarte prietenos si bine aprovizionat. Am mentionat ca dupa ce am schimbat uleiul la Yamaha in Windhoek ambreiajul mi-a tot patinat. Am revenit aici la Motul 5100 10W40, si e ok. Nu am avut de ales si am schimbat, dupa nici 6000 km, lantul: din Lubumbashi imi sarisera deja doua cleme de siguranta si uzura era semnificativa. Ghinion. De data asta am mers pe un lant DID X-Ring cu za de legatura nituita. Am schimbat sprocketurile (uzate la 10k din cauza lantului si drumurilor dificile) si placutele de frana.

Thanks to a tip from Charl, a fellow Capetonian advrider, we arrived at Trac Mac, a friendly and well appointed service and fitting centre. Remember our enigmatic clutch slip that has been bugging us since Windhoek. Well, the synthetic Bel Ray 20W50 was the culprit (thanks to the questionable customer service of Yamaha Windhoeak): I switched back to Motul 5100 10W40 and the clutch works. After a quick assessment we also concluded that unfortunately the chain we fitted in Lubumbashi (DRC) must be changed, after only 6000 km: already 2 (two!) security clips had fallen off and again there was a lot of wear around the connection link was damaged. This time I went for a riveted connection link with a DID X-Ring. Time to change sprockets (after only 10k, because I had to fit them with an old chain in Matadi and because most of this mileage was off road) and brake pads also.








Restul saptamanii a fost calm: ziua Iuliei si sesiuni caraghios de amuzante de Guitar Hero si Rock Band, doua jocuri pe care le subestimasem pana sa le testam.

The rest of the week we chilled. We had fun playing a game that we used to wrongfully dismiss for being commercial and stupid: Guitar Hero and Rock Band. Especially for Iulia’s b-day.




In weekend am dormit la Carla si Charl, dupa o raita la piata de producatori artizanali, unde am degustat masline, vin si biltong, si dupa o pizza la faimosul Blue Peter, o ‘institutie’ capetoniana. Seara, desigur, un braai in casuta lor perfecta, care poarta amprenta Carlei. Charl si Carla sunt tineri, talentati si frumosi. Charl are propria afacere, iar Carla este fotograf aspirant.

And hanged out with Charl and Carla at the legendary Blue Peter and a farmers’ market, sampling local olives, olive oil, wine and biltong. The evening we braid and finally stayed over their chic crib, decorated in French country style. They are talented, sporty and ridiculously attractive people. Charl is an entrepreneur and Carla recently started a photography venture, have a look here: link facebook






Dupa 10 zile ne-am mutat in ‘Endless Summer’, o casa de surferi in Table View, unde camerele sunt ocupate de europeni veniti pentru a petrece luni de zile in apa, iar livingul, baile si bucataria sunt la comun. 200 de metri pana la plaja si cele mai frumoase perspective catre munte. Pacla de nori de pe culme e poreclita de localnici ‘Fata de masa’. 

After 10 days we moved to a ‘surf house’ in Table View, which is exactly what the name says: a house where the kitchen, living room and toilets are shared spaces, whilst several rooms and garden cottages are rented out to long term vacationers. This was ‘Endless Summer’: a place located in a very quiet residential area, 200 meters from the beach with the best view of the iconic mountain. The locals have a cool name for the daily show of cloudscapes creeping on top of the flat rock: Table Cloth. 


Afacerea asta se bazeaza pe recomandarile comunitatii de pasionati ai sporturilor nautice: surf, kite-surf, SUP, windsurf. Din Olanda, Norvegia, Anglia, Feranta si Elvetia, an de an aceeasi oameni vin sa locuiasca aici pe timpul verii sud-africane. iar cand vantul nu e favorabil, o ard la testare de vinuri, safari, scufundari cu foci sau rechini, cu parapanta, bungee, sky diving si alte traznai la care ne-am fi bagat si noi daca ne-ar fi tinut buzunarul. 

Am avut indoieli daca sa ne riscam atat de aproape de tentatiile urbane si acvatice. Surf e un vis vechi pentru mine, insa cu toate regretele ca ratam o oportunitate de a ne initia in niste sporturi cool, trebuia sa ramanem ‘la subiect’. Noi suntem overlanderi, nu in vacanta pe termen scurt, deci banii nostri, deja imputinati dramatic de vize, probeleme tehncie si taxe de curierat, nu pot sustine alte ‘mofturi’. Iar ultimele saptamani, in Namibia si Africa de Sud, ne-au zdruncinat si mai tare fragilul echilibru financiar.

Insa locul era prea fain ca sa plecam in graba: ne-am potolit cheful de gatit intr-o bucatarie adevarata, am citit o gramada de carti, ne-am updatat CV-urile si ne-am gandit la viitor, am petrecut saptamani calme si weekenduri de gratareala si taclale ca intre prieteni.

The business relies on word of mouth to attract the aficionados of some of the coolest water sports around. People from the Netherlands, Norway, France, Switzerland and the UK are flocking here in summer to surf, SUP, kite surf and windsurf. They stay anywhere between a couple of weeks to season-long terms, spending their holidays in the cold crisp waves, or enjoying other cool stuff that Cape Town and South Africa have to offer. Safaris, game drives, cage diving with great white sharks, seal snorkeling or diving, paragliding, skydiving, bungee jumping. Or wine tasting, hiking trips, or clubbing on Long Street, where party buses arrive loaded with old and young sardined together high on booze and imported weed. BTW, the dudes who appear to be selling clothing hangers at junctions, are actually in a different kind of business. 

It’s all good fun, but it comes at a substantial cost, way beyond our budget. We felt apprehensive about moving in this fun hub, fearing that the temptation would be too big, that we would get sucked into it. But the price of fun kept us at bay. Regrets that we couldn’t enjoy the opportunity to discover some fantastic sports aside, we had to remember we were on a mission to overland. Already we had arrived there with our budget in shambles, butchered by systematic visa problems, DHL fees and enormous import duties for parts. And for the last 5 weeks we had been struggling to cope with the high costs of living in Namibia and South Africa, while still trying to enjoy some of the good stuff available.

We ended up staying longer: the magic flowed, we enjoyed cooking, relaxing in a real bed, reading books, updating our CVs and scouting for jobs in SA or elsewhere, thinking about the future and how we can solve our immediate financial problems. The long, tapering breath of Friday braai fire became a catalyst for sharing stories and making friends. 




IMG_9483.jpgSheree, the godmother of this joint

Cat despre ‘realizarea’ noastra de a ajunge primii - din cate stim noi - pe moto din Bucuresti in Cape Town, ei bine pe moment nu eram prea impresionati. In Iunie trecut ideea era prea vasta pentru a o constientiza, acum aventura celor noua luni era prea plina de amintiri pentru a o rezuma in cateva cuvinte. Nenumaratele ore de condus, noptile magice la cort, libertatea desertului, rasariturile de soare, dramele tehnice, saptamanile in compania francezilor, toate astea aveau nevoie de timp si loc pentru a sedimenta. Cred insa ca ne simteam multumiti de noi. Orice ar fi urmat, stiam acum ceva ce ar fi trebuit sa ne fie evident inainte chiar de a incepe de organizam aceasta calatorie, ceva ce ar trebui sa stim cu totii: putem face, oricine am fi, orice ne dorim cu adevarat.

And how did we feel to be the first people to travel by motorbike from Bucharest to Cape Town? Well, it didn’t feel like quite an achievement. Last June it was too vast to grasp, now it was too full of memories to summarize in a few words. The innumerable hours of riding, the peaceful nights wild camping, the freedom, the fragrant dawns, the breakdowns, the weeks of living and sharing everything with the French family, it all needs time and space to sunk in, to become real. I guess we felt pleased with ourselves. Whatever would happen next, we knew now something that should have been evident before we even begun to plan this journey, something that we should all know: we can do anything we truly want to do.


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