Su Shi

by Ana, Romania pics courtesy to Ana’s mum. Romanian version to come soon. It may not shelter us from the humming storm and it may break sometimes in the middle of a swamp, but when we’re keen to go off the beaten track, the bike is our tool of choice. It sure did the job when we wanted to spend more time in the African villages that we love so much. Eversince we rolled onto African soil, the similarities to where we had come from kept creeping up. We’ve touched the topic before, and this time is about the countryside and its countrymen. This journey takes us to the basics and it revolves around what Romania, like many of its sister nations of Africa, is in the process of losing. Firstly, the shelter. The need for one is hardwired into every sentient creature. Pretty much everywhere in the world vernacular architecture is rooted in impermanent resources. Yet, the humbler the building material, the craftier the outcome. Some of the most ingenious structures dot subsaharan Africa: the intricately huts of the pygmy peoples, weaved from leaves and twigs, the patchwork of everything designed into thick walled igloos by the the semi-nomadic Borana people of northern Kenya ..the thatched roofed adobe buildings with humble but lovely examples throughout the Sahel, like the symbolic Dogon architecture in northern Mali (for this house the adobe is mixed with stones, a variation encountered on the Bandiagara falaise) … the decorated homes of the Gourounsi people in Burkina -the high ceiling mud’n dung houses in central Ethiopia, built on eucalyptus poles and left unplastered … the red clay huts typical to all central Africa, from coast to coast, like this one from Mozambique … all the way to glorious monuments in neo-sudanese style like the iconic Djenne mosque (a replica of the XIII century original and still the largest mud-brick structure in the world) … or the one in Bobo Dioulasso, where the volume is determined by structure and spatial segmentation. The poles sticking out of the walls have both a structural function and help climb up the mosque when it’s in need of repairs, which in Djenne for example become an annual regional event, with thousands of people gathering to hand-plaster the mosque after the rains stop. In this perishable and fragile world a few notable sturdier exceptions stand out: the Zanzibari houses built in coral blocks, not so sustainable if you ask… The mono-cellular tukul, looking like hobbit houses elevated on a foundation of boulders, to be found in the Ethiopian highlands (arguably the only example of vernacular architecture developed on several floors) And the very functional and sombre, albeit picturesque circular hut of the Basotho people, called mokhoro. Even in this case though, the stones used to construct the walls are held together with a mortar of sand and soil mixed with dung. Africa though is rapidly changing: even in the remotest deserts where elusive tribes like the Himba have been struggling to hold onto their old lifestyle, modern comfort is replacing tradition: No wonder there is little anthropological evidence left and little hope to find more. I will not go into debate about what’s best for the people, I will refrain to recording my findings and my concern of the need to understand what we are soon to lose. Now, let’s go back to Romania, to my father’s village, Varlezi. This hilly, Eastern semi-arid region is geographically isolated from the main urban settlements in the district. When I was kid, we had to walk for 10 kilometres from the nearest train station to reach the tarmac, then there was another few Ks to knock on my grandmother’s door. Nothing stands out: there are no interesting landmarks, no major course of water, no elaborate tradition to observe. The kind of place where the city dweller like myself can’t find their place, bored to death. The kind of place that has nor the charm of Maramures, nor the dynamics of central Transylvania. A typical, slow-life village where people seem to have just stayed, their powers spent after marching aimlessly on their way to a merrier land. But give it a moment, let the magic unfold, and you’ll see why they did. Not too long ago, all the buildings in the village were made of mud and dung, much like in many places of Africa. The shelter was still man’s connection to the land, hand-built with what the forest and the animals gave for free. After the earthquake of 1990, I remember all the family rushing to the countryside to help with hand-plastering the cracks in the walls of my grandmother’s house. Nowadays only some of those structures are still standing in the compound, visibly weathered under a layer of fresh paint and a heavy roof. When I was little, I was begging my parents for stories every night, which made them struggle for fresh material. My dad is particularly good at making up stories, and some of my fav series featured him wandering the hills as a lad, cuddling next to a lamb in a horse-pulled cart or rabbits dancing on his chest while he was napping in the forest. Seeing this area coming alive from spring to autumn, with the field smelling of wild thyme and bugs glistening from the grasses, I can almost believe these stories. My dad and his friend over-landing without a GPS towards some place Where they engage in their favourite activity Most day is spent here in the open air: working on the corn plantation and in the veg garden As everywhere in the temperate climate, fall is the most rewarding season. This year’s autumn was stunning: wheat and corn have been harvested and milled Sufficient grains have been stored for winter, for animal feed Chicks have been reared Fresh herbs have been cut and slowly dried on paper in the attic, to flavour the stews and soups of the cold season to come Leaving nothing to waste, not even dill stems, that were finely chopped and mixed with sorrel and parsley Wild plants have been hand picked for the many herbal tea blends my dad brews yearlong to soothe a flu or just to enjoy in the afternoon Nuts, fruits and berries have been processed to stand the test of the long months to come But the most awaited moment of the fall is grape harvesting. When the summer’s sun finally coagulates in precious drops of sweetness, people start roaming, the field starts vibrating and limbs start rock’n rolling. It’s a sprint to the finish line, where the bags of aromatic fruit are carefully readied for the next step. Some will be dried and cured Most will be crushed And fermented into dark, strong wine Something links food and shelter: you eat how you live, and it all comes down to choice. Are all these produce delicious and wholesome? You bet. Is it hard-work and uncomfortable to grow and harvest them? Sure it is. Is is cheaper and more efficient to mass produce and mass distribute them? Seems like it. But should we be so hasty and dismiss such traditional ways of doing things as obsolete? Most of the urban Kenyans we talked to were confident we should, saying that the Maasai, for instance, aren’t relevant in today’s world, that Africa cannot develop fast enough in a race to catch up with the pace of other emerging regions. We cannot argue it isn’t so. Since it become a free market economy, Romania too, hasn’t stopped changing. It has a unique blend of oriental and Latin heritage, plenty of wild tracks to off-road and reasonably unspoilt landscapes in the countryside. Being away from the country for quite a bit of time allowed us to notice even the subtler changes. Things move fast. There is a lot to applaud, and a lot to debate. But one thing is sure, it would be good if both Romania and its distant fellow developing countries incorporate in their renewed identities not only regurgitated models, but also their rich heritage. We need to learn from our elders, so we know better what to teach our young. This concludes our posts from the Eastern Europe. Let the dice roll… Sursa

Cluj Poate v-am plictisit cu anunturile, dar asa e cu bulgarele de zapada... Urmatorul mesaj e pentru clujeni. La indemnul unui motociclist si incurajati de generozitatea ardeleana (multumim!), aducem expozitia in Cluj. Miercuri 5 decembrie de la 19.00 vom fi la L'Atelier Cafe (Str. Memorandumului 9, la etaj) pentru vernisaj si o prezentare ca intre prieteni. Intre 5 si 14 expozitia vor ramane acolo, iar din 15 decembrie, pana pe 17 ianuarie o selectie de portrete africane vor fi gazduite de Libraria Carturesti. Pe FB sunt detaliile. Ne vedem acolo :)

Azi este ultima zi in care mai puteti vedea expozitia de fotografie Into The World - Africa 420. Va asteptam pe Aviatorilor la nr.9, pana la ora 20.00. Sursa

Into The World @ nou9 from Into The World on Vimeo. 9 Aviatorilor Blvd./ Bucharest

Reporterii Realitatii - Românii care au cucerit continentul negru Sursa

Daca ati ratat seara din Garajul McCann aflati ca redeschidem expozitia vinerea asta, 9 noiembrie la nou 9, pe bulevardul Aviatorilor nr.9. Vernisajul e la 19.00, si berea si carbogazoasele sunt din partea noastra. Apoi expozitia ramane deschisa pana pe 22 noiembrie. Nou 9 este casa care are la subsol un magazin de biciclete, foarte aproape de statuia Aviatorilor, pe stanga. Desigur ca nu vor lipsi muzica si proiectiile video, si motocicleta noastra albastra.

Prezent :) Hai pe 9/11 la Aviatorilor 9 sa te convingi!

Salut tuturor! Ar fi nedrept sa inchidem garajul si gata, nu? Asa ca mutam expozitia de pe 9 noiembrie la minunata casa-galerie <Nou 9>, pe Aviatorilor la nr.9; vineri 9 noiembrie va asteptam acolo la un drink, proiectii, muzica si ne mai gandim ce... Expozitia va ramane deschisa acolo doua saptamani. :) in curand vom face si un eveniment pe Facebook si un poster. Pana organizam la Nou 9, sambata asta, pe 3 noiembrie, suntem invitati si sunteti invitati la Atra Doftana la o zi de intalniri intr-un cadru relaxat, la munte. Va asteptam! Multumim si bafta tuturor. A fost o bucurie sa vedem atata lume la garaj, ar fi fost cool sa apucam sa si stam un pic de vorba.

Into The World Africa Expo @McCann Garage Sursa

INTO THE WORLD - AFRICA 420 @ McCann Garage - Making of... from Into The World on Vimeo. Expozitia de fotografie „INTO THE WORLD” - 420 de zile si 55.000 de km in jurul Africii pe motocicleta la garajul McCann Erickson

Expozitia de fotografie „INTO THE WORLD” - 420 de zile si 55.000 de km in jurul Africii pe motocicleta la garajul McCann Erickson Sursa

asa e, a fost multa lume si timpul a trecut foarte repede, nu am apucat sa salutam nici macar prieteni sau cunoscuti vechi care cumva au aflat de vernisaj si au venit. speram ca ti a placut set-up ul :)

nice :) ne am fi bucurat sa ne cauti printre cei 1200 de oameni care au trecut ieri pragul expozitiei; poate la urmatoarea ocazie :) am muncit mult sa punem cap la cap expozitia asta, si raspunsul e pozitiv, iar asta se pare ca pledeaza pentru ca sa mutam tot calabalacul intr-o alta parte, pentru una sau doua saptamani. pana luni speram sa avem ceva concret :) ecouri...? le asteptam si noi daca ati fost si ati vazut, asteptam parerile voastre cat despre o carte sau documentarul la care visam, speram sa gasim deschidere si sa le transformam in realitate

Eveniment inedit in Garajul McCann Erickson Expozitie de fotografie „INTO THE WORLD” / Pop-up Shop SAVE THE DATE ! Pe data de 25 octombrie, începând cu ora 19.00, Garajul McCann Erickson este din nou gazda unui proiect cultural inovator – Expozitia Fotografica „INTO THE WORLD” - povestea in imagini a unei calatorii de 420 de zile si 55.000 de km in jurul Africii ... pe motocicleta. Despre proiect: Doi arhitecti romani, Ionut Florea si Ana Hogas au incheiat cu succes un tur de 55.000 de km in jurul Africii cu motocicleta. Expeditia a durat 420 de zile (14 luni), incepand cu iunie 2011, si a cuprins rutele de Vest si de Est si traversarea Africii centrale pe cel mai dificil traseu de pe continent (Kinshasa – Lubumbashi, R.D. Congo). Expozitia „INTO THE WORLD” dezvaluie in premiera povestea din spatele povestii: motojurnalism, portrete, scurt metraj si un set-up cu poze din cele 290 de zile petrecute la cort. Ce au fotografiat: colonii romane si medine medievale, cea mai mare cladire din chirpici din lume, patria voodoo, triburile Dogon, Himba si Maasai, enclava Swahili din arhipelagul Zanzibar, stravechea Nubie si Piramidele. Fotografii din: Maroc, Sahara Occidentala, Mauritania, Mali, Burkina Faso, Togo, Benin, Nigeria, Camerun, Gabon, Republica Congo(Brazzaville), Republica Democrata Congo (Kinshasa), Zambia, Namibia, Africa de Sud, Lesotho, Botswana, Mozambique,Tanzania, Kenya, Ethiopia, Sudan, Egipt Expeditia in Africa face parte din proiectul ’Into The World’, o initiativa lansata in 2010 de Ionut Florea si Ana Hogas, in scopul de a promova explorarea independenta. Proiectul „INTO THE WORLD” nu se opreste aici: in etapa urmatoare cei doi vor explora timp de 6 luni America de Sud. Expeditia in Africa este documentata pe www.intotheworld.eu Descarca o prezentare a expeditiei aici: http://www.intotheworld.eu/ITW_Brief_25092012.pdf Asculta emisiunea Vocea filmelor din 30/09 la radio Guerrilla aici: http://www.radioguerrilla.ro/podcast Eveniment Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/events/271414762979378/ Afis: http://www.intotheworld.eu/poster_itw.jpg Invitatie: http://www.intotheworld.eu/invitatie_itw.jpg http://www.intotheworld.eu/invitatie.pdf Sursa

Garajul McCann Erickson / 25 Octombrie 2012 / incepand cu ora 19.00 Expozitie de fotografie din turul Africii pe motocicleta / Pop-up Shop Vino pe 25 octombrie in GARAJUL McCANN ERICKSON (Str. Jules Michelet nr. 18, langa Ambasada Marii Britanii) pentru o expozitie despre aventura si Africa. 420 de zile si 55000 de km in peste 100 de imagini inedite pe care le poti lua acasa. Fotografii din: Maroc, Mauritania, Mali, Burkina Faso, Togo, Benin, Nigeria, Camerun, Gabon, Republica Congo (Brazzaville), Republica Democrata Congo (Kinshasa), Zambia, Namibia, Africa de Sud, Lesotho, Botswana, Mozambique, Tanzania, Kenya, Ethiopia, Sudan, Egipt Ambient: Muzica de la Origami Sound, proiectie video Evenimentul pe Facebook _____________________________________________________

Te inteleg, prima oara am mancat din intamplare, pentru ca Ana, care gusta totul, a crezut ca greierele e shrimp. Apoi mai mananci si de nevoie, plus ca nu sunt deloc rele la gust. Uite, nu stiu daca ai mancat durian, un fruct asiatic care pe noi ne inspaimanta mai ceva ca omizile astea africane. Seamana la exterior cu jackfruit, dar are tepii mai mari, si miezul este cremos, cu gust de unt dulce... ranced... si miros de cadavru. Cu durian chiar e laie ori balaie: ori iti place la nebunie (si sunt foarte multi oameni devin fanatici), ori ai oroare de el.

Multumim pentru feedback, e fain ce ne-ai intrebat!

Multumim! Te asteptam cu placere. Pregatim unul mai lung pentru 25Oct. O tura de placere Romania 02 - 31/08 A durat ceva sa ne dam seama de asta, dar acum e clar: traversarea Zairului a fost momentul in care ne-am ‘shiftat’. Depanand amintiri din Congo cu Alper in Curtea de Arges, ne-am dat seama ca experienta asta continua sa dospeasca. Stai asa… am zis ca Alper e in Romania? Nu e vorba de tipul din Germania cu care am traversat celalalt Congo in decembrie trecut? Chiar el, si tare ne mai bucuram! Sa recapitulam deci ce s-a mai intamplat cu el de cand ne-am vazut ultima oara… in Congo. Era decembrie 2011 cand eu, Ana si cei patru Vidal din Toulouse ne aflam intr-o situatie cam… dificila in Kinshasa, in vreme de Alper si iubita lui de atunci ne impartaseau soarta, numai ca in Matadi. Era limpede ca nu vom putea nici unul dintre noi intra pe roti in Angola, asa ca aveam de luat o decizie importanta. Renuntam la calatorie, zburam peste tara ‘interzisa’, trimitem vehiculele cu vaporul sau mergem inainte pe unde harta nu-i. Adica laie or balaie. Fiecare dintre cele trei echipe avea alte atuuri si alte slabiciuni, precum si propriile obiective, dar au sfarsit prin a alege aceeasi solutie la problema. Astfel, Alper si Esther au purces intaii la drum, si SMS-urile care au sosit de la ei pe satelitul francezilor ne-au facut sa o luam pe o alta cale. Alegerea s-a dovedit paguboasa: a fost singura data cand nu am dat crezare camionagiilor, si am regretat, pentru ca drumul pe care am mers noi si francezii a fost si mai greu. Nemtii si Toyota lor au suferit si ei din plin. Au traversat in aproape patru saptamani, iar suspensia pe lame a cedat mai ca pe linia de sosire. In Namibia au dat insa de un obstacol insurmontabil: Esther s-a imbolnavit de malarie si a suferit o complicatie severa (insuficienta renala). Aventura germanilor se incheia abrupt, cu repatrierea lui Esther si vanzarea masinii, nu inainte ca Alper sa o conduca pana la Capul Bunei Sperante. Iata articolul despre ei din revista Mororrad. Odata intorsi in Germania, cei doi si-au reluat joburile. Alper este ghid moto si organizeaza tururi in Europa si Turcia. De doua ori pe an traverseaza Romania, iar unul dintre tururi este dedicat chiar tarii noastre. Cum Alper ne-a anuntat sa vine pe Transalpina, nu am stat pe ganduri si am stabilit sa ne gasim in Curtea de Arges. La iesirea din Bucuresti am alimentat pentru prima data intr-o benzinarie romaneasca. Pretul ne-a ars la buzunar! Mobra avea pofta de drum. Cum s-a deschis zarea, parca a devenit alta. Aveam intalnire cu Alper in cateva ore, si cand in sfarsit am zarit KTM-ul 690 Enduro, am simtit fluturi in stomac: gasca se reunea! Ne-am ospatat cu ceafa la gratar si vinul casei, dupa ce am parcat langa 1200 GS-urile nemtilor, in garajul care putea a varza murata. Oricate aveam de povestit, un cuvant domina conversatia: CONGO. Fusese cea mai dificila etapa din viata noastra. Vremea nu ne-a crutat: ploi torentiale, noroi ‘de bumbac’, mlastini ascunse sub stratul gros de nisip si lut. Am purtat aceleasi haine ude leoarca si pline de noroi zi dupa zi, am dardait in cortul jilav si in sacul asisderea. Mai toata ziua eram la verificat adancimea baltilor si orientare. Asta cat am fost zdraveni la minte. Odata ce oboseala, lipsurile si stresul si-au spus cuvantul, am inceput sa pierdem din concentrare si sa facem greseli. Asa ca in transee cu noi: la sapa, la impins, la pus troliul si alte manevre de gen. Hrana a fost cam panica: prin sate se gasea cate o mana de rosii, cate un avocado, si de fiecare data cumparam (cu remuscari si rusine) tot ce era pe taraba. Am bagat insecte, porumb luat cu rugaminti de la taranci… de cateva ori am luat paste, orez si paine. In Mbuji Mayi si Kamina am fost rasfatati cu adevarate festinuri: nu ne lipsisera nutrientii, cu diversitatea. Insa chiar daca toti am descris etapa respectiva a calatoriilor noastre ca ‘teribila’ si ‘nebuneasca’, tuturor ne-a adus satisfactii sa ne confruntam si depasim limitele. Congo ne-a calit, ne-a facut mai buni, chiar daca si mai putin re-adaptabili la ‘civilizatie’. Din Zambia nu a mai fost vorba de mancat lacuste si sapat cu orele in mocirla, nici de campat in plina furtuna. Ok, cu exceptia fenomenului bizar din Sudan, pe care poate doar un Stie-Tot sa ni-l lamureasca. Suntem dara noi si Alper nebuni ca mult dupa miezul noptii inca mai vorbim despre aventura din Congo? Cu opt luni in urma sase adulti si doi copii dadeau nas in nas cu Africa secreta. Noi, calatorii speram ca Vrajitorul acelui Oz ne va elibera din latul prejudecatilor, ne va sterge ‘rugina’ din oase, ne va incuraja sa radem de imposibil, ne va mijloci redescoperirea inimii si a curajului. Am gasit intr-adevar aventura, si am depasit multe obstacole acolo, atat impreuna, cat si separat, dar mai ales i-am descoperit pe congolezi. Acest neam aparte, despre care nu stiam mai nimic. Vulcanic, rezistent, adaptabil, neobosit. Odata ce ai facut o baie de multime si de pasiune congoleza, nimic nu mai e la fel. La opt luni dupa ce parasisem Oz-ul African, acesta continua sa ne obsedeze. In zori ne-am luat la revedere. Aveam o idee fixa pentru ziua in curs: sa facem Transfagarasanul. Adica paduri de pin, curbe stranse, grohotisuri, poate o cascada sau doua, un izvor, un lac alpin, stii cum e. Dar drumul asta construit cu atatea sacrificii inseamna mult mai mult. Cand eram pici, aici ne petreceam cam toate vacantele. Imi amintesc cum urcam spre Capra de revelion, prin zapada pana la brau, incarcati cu oale de sarmale. Eram nebuni, era grozav. Eu si Ana am continuat traditia: aici fugeam de la birou pentru o zi sau doua de dat pe serpentine, sau la un gratar, sau in umbra micii cascade, ‘locul nostru’. Aici e lacul care in anumite dimineti luceste misterios si metalic, si de aici am inceput si de asta data urcusul. Am facut insa prima la dreapta din asphalt, in padure. Plecasem din Bucuresti fara harta, doar cu o vaga idee sa o taiem printre brazi, haituind o culme golasa pe care o tot zaream printre arbori. Am decis sa lasam drumul sa ne duca unde o vrea el, si sa lasam ziua sa se intample. La o cotitura am dat peste acest grup de overlanderi. Nici ei nu pareau sa aiba GPS. Intraram pe teritoriul ursilor. Care ursi recoltasera deja zmeura si murele de pe munte, dupa cum se vede din poza. Frecventa si aspectul ‚urmelor’ spun ca din fericire ursii sunt inca pe zona, si ca o duc binisor. Pe astfel de drumuri zambesc intruna. Numai mirosul tare de pini si buruieni de munte strivite sub roata sunt indeajuns. Asa. Si asa. Sau asa. Dar un om trebuie sa mai faca si o pauza… Mai ales inainte sa urce dealul Cand panta a sarit de 45 de grade, deja nu mai tineau cauciucurile si mi-ar fi trebuit alta mobra ca sa-I dau de cap. Alta data! Muntele nu doar hraneste sufletul, ci si poteleste setea. Ne-am abatut la un parau langa care era parcata o rulota, si unde erau asternute niste scaune si o masa, taman bune pentru popas. Stapanul micii tabere trebuie ca era pe undeva cu treaba. In fata unei atat de modeste gospodarii, insatietatea si tendinta noastra de oraseni de a abuza de resurse limitate sunt de-a dreptul vulgare. Ne-am baut apa, am zis bodgaproste gazdei anonime si ne-am bucurat de viata. Aproape ca era ora pranzului, si am facut cale intoarsa in Transfagarasan, cu tinta Balea. Un drum pe care nu il pot rezuma in cateva cuvinte, o sa zic doar ca ajunge sa il faci o data, ca sa vrei sa repeti experienta. La 2040 de metri altitudine sunt lacul glaciar si Cabana Balea. Iarna poti sa ajungi aici numai din Brasov, dar fiind vara, ne-am luat masa pe terasa. Pastrav in folie, ciorba de burta, placinta de mere... de-ale romanilor. Cum episodul din Top Gear a facut mai multe pentru turism decat toata balbaiala ministerului cu pricina, deja strainii se inghesuie si ei sa guste din aceste bucate si adrenalina pe Transfagarasan si Transalpina. Multe s-au schimbat de cand nu am mai fost pe aici. S-a umplut de tarabe cu ‚taranisme’ (gemuri, branza, afumaturi diverse). Si e full de turisti (noi am fost intr-o miercuri). Am ridicat din umeri la gandul ca poate toate astea o sa stirbeasca farmecul locului – si am pornit inspre de unde venisem. Nimic nu e mai fain ca abisul verde al vaii brazdate de curbe, unde vantul mai sa te doboare si unde norii intuneca cerul. Am facut drumul asta in toate anotimpurile, si cel mai mult imi place la inceput de iunie, cand zapezile inca nu s-au dus, iar cascadele sunt pline de apa. Am aruncat un ochi in mina abandonata. Ne-am oprit si la Capra, unde cea mai aratoasa militie canina se ocupa cu manatul oilor in stana. Drumul inapoi in Bucuresti a fost intins si lung, dar a fost bine sa stim unde o sa punem capul jos la noapte. Acasa ne putem odihni alaturi de cei dragi. Am umblat multa vreme prin Africa am vazut multe locuri extrordinare si am intalnit multi oameni buni, iar acum, dupa ce ne-am incarcat putin cu natura, parca avem si mai mare dor de duca. Cum sunt multe de facut si de lamurit, ne suflecam manecile si ne punem pe treaba!

Into The World - Trailer AFRICA Sursa

Romania 02 - 31/08 A durat ceva sa ne dam seama de asta, dar acum e clar: traversarea Zairului a fost momentul in care ne-am ‘shiftat’. Depanand amintiri din Congo cu Alper in Curtea de Arges, ne-am dat seama ca experienta asta continua sa dospeasca. It took a while to see this, and now we do: the Zaïre crossing was the pivotal event that springboarded us to the next level. Sharing our various memories of Zaïre and of what happened after that with Alper in Curtea de Argeş, we realised that the whole experience continues to simmer on. Stai asa… am zis ca Alper e in Romania? Nu e vorba de tipul din Germania cu care am traversat celalalt Congo in decembrie trecut? Chiar el, si tare ne mai bucuram! Sa recapitulam deci ce s-a mai intamplat cu el de cand ne-am vazut ultima oara… in Congo. Era decembrie 2011 cand eu, Ana si cei patru Vidal din Toulouse ne aflam intr-o situatie cam… dificila in Kinshasa, in vreme de Alper si iubita lui de atunci ne impartaseau soarta, numai ca in Matadi. Era limpede ca nu vom putea nici unul dintre noi intra pe roti in Angola, asa ca aveam de luat o decizie importanta. Renuntam la calatorie, zburam peste tara ‘interzisa’, trimitem vehiculele cu vaporul sau mergem inainte pe unde harta nu-i. Adica laie or balaie. Fiecare dintre cele trei echipe avea alte atuuri si alte slabiciuni, precum si propriile obiective, dar au sfarsit prin a alege aceeasi solutie la problema. Astfel, Alper si Esther au purces intaii la drum, si SMS-urile care au sosit de la ei pe satelitul francezilor ne-au facut sa o luam pe o alta cale. Alegerea s-a dovedit paguboasa: a fost singura data cand nu am dat crezare camionagiilor, si am regretat, pentru ca drumul pe care am mers noi si francezii a fost si mai greu. Nemtii si Toyota lor au suferit si ei din plin. Au traversat in aproape patru saptamani, iar suspensia pe lame a cedat mai ca pe linia de sosire. In Namibia au dat insa de un obstacol insurmontabil: Esther s-a imbolnavit de malarie si a suferit o complicatie severa (insuficienta renala). Aventura germanilor se incheia abrupt, cu repatrierea lui Esther si vanzarea masinii, nu inainte ca Alper sa o conduca pana la Capul Bunei Sperante. Iata articolul despre ei din revista Mororrad. Wait wait… Did I say Alper was in Romania with us? Wasn’t him the German dude who joined us on a race across Congo Brazaville in December? Hell, yeah, he is back in our life, and boy, are we glad! First, I’ll give you a recap of what he’d been up to since we split. It was December 2011, and me, Ana and the four Vidals from Toulouse were stuck in Kinshasa, while Alper and his then-girlfriend were sharing our faith, but in Matadi. There was no way any of us would be allowed to enter Angola overland, and we had all the same big decision to make. Give up, fly over, or push forward on routes that aren’t on any map. Do or die. Each of the three teams had a different set up, different strengths and weaknesses and different objectives, but we all ended up choosing the same way out. Alper and Esther left first, and based on their initial SMS we decided to take a different route, which in the end proved even more treacherous. The Germans suffered a lot, so did the Toyo. They crossed in a little under four weeks, breaking the suspension just on the finish line. Then in Namibia disaster hit: Esther was taken down by malaria and kidney failure, which abruptly ended their adventure. After accompanying Esther home, Alper returned to sell the Toyo, not before driving it all the way down to the Cape of Good Hope. Here is their story in Motorrad magazine. Odata intorsi in Germania, cei doi si-au reluat joburile. Alper este ghid moto si organizeaza tururi in Europa si Turcia. De doua ori pe an traverseaza Romania, iar unul dintre tururi este dedicat chiar tarii noastre. Cum Alper ne-a anuntat sa vine pe Transalpina, nu am stat pe ganduri si am stabilit sa ne gasim in Curtea de Arges. La iesirea din Bucuresti am alimentat pentru prima data intr-o benzinarie romaneasca. Pretul ne-a ars la buzunar! Back in Germany, they got back to work. Alper is a motorcycling tour guide. If you are a biker and want to head out to the best roads of Europe and Turkey, he’s your guy. Twice a year Alper takes his clients across Romania, so we jumped at the opportunity to get together. Exiting Bucharest I was filling up the tank with Romanian petrol (well… that’s a bit of a stretch, it was just a Romanian gas station) for the first time in quite a heck of a while. The price of petrol: 1,40 Euro/l. Ouch! Mobra avea pofta de drum. Cum s-a deschis zarea, parca a devenit alta. Aveam intalnire cu Alper in cateva ore, si cand in sfarsit am zarit KTM-ul 690 Enduro, am simtit fluturi in stomac: gasca se reunea! Ne-am ospatat cu ceafa la gratar si vinul casei, dupa ce am parcat langa 1200 GS-urile nemtilor, in garajul care putea a varza murata. Oricate aveam de povestit, un cuvant domina conversatia: CONGO. Fusese cea mai dificila etapa din viata noastra. Vremea nu ne-a crutat: ploi torentiale, noroi ‘de bumbac’, mlastini ascunse sub stratul gros de nisip si lut. Am purtat aceleasi haine ude leoarca si pline de noroi zi dupa zi, am dardait in cortul jilav si in sacul asisderea. Mai toata ziua eram la verificat adancimea baltilor si orientare. Asta cat am fost zdraveni la minte. Odata ce oboseala, lipsurile si stresul si-au spus cuvantul, am inceput sa pierdem din concentrare si sa facem greseli. Asa ca in transee cu noi: la sapa, la impins, la pus troliul si alte manevre de gen. Hrana a fost cam panica: prin sate se gasea cate o mana de rosii, cate un avocado, si de fiecare data cumparam (cu remuscari si rusine) tot ce era pe taraba. Am bagat insecte, porumb luat cu rugaminti de la taranci… de cateva ori am luat paste, orez si paine. In Mbuji Mayi si Kamina am fost rasfatati cu adevarate festinuri: nu ne lipsisera nutrientii, cu diversitatea. Insa chiar daca toti am descris etapa respectiva a calatoriilor noastre ca ‘teribila’ si ‘nebuneasca’, tuturor ne-a adus satisfactii sa ne confruntam si depasim limitele. Congo ne-a calit, ne-a facut mai buni, chiar daca si mai putin re-adaptabili la ‘civilizatie’. Din Zambia nu a mai fost vorba de mancat lacuste si sapat cu orele in mocirla, nici de campat in plina furtuna. Ok, cu exceptia fenomenului bizar din Sudan, pe care poate doar un Stie-Tot sa ni-l lamureasca. Suntem dara noi si Alper nebuni ca mult dupa miezul noptii inca mai vorbim despre aventura din Congo? My Tenere was thirsty and it showed. As soon as the horizon opened, the race was on. We were meeting Alper in Curtea in a couple of hours. When we saw the KTM 690 Enduro we felt a tingle in the heart: the gang was reunited! We had Romanian wine with pork steak, while the garage reeked of pickled cabbage. That’s what Romanian folk does with cabbage in autumn, making our neighbours suspect the biological war has started. No matter how many things we had to chat about, there was one word that kept creeping into our conversation: CONGO. It had been the most difficult mental and physical challenge of our lives. It demanded everything. Weatherwise it was no joke: downpours, cotton mud, pockets of swampy water under layers of moving sand. Wearing the same damp muddy clothes and sleeping in a wet tent day in and day out. Most of the day was usually spent with orientation and assessing the terrain. When we were still reasonably sane. Once fatigue and stress took over, we become disorganized, less focused. We started to make mistakes. Then it was digging and operating whatever tool we could harvest to extract us from random swamps, trenches and holes. Finding food was a bit challenging. We subsisted on fruit & veg, insects, scavenged corn or nothing at all for parts of the journey, which was fine with us, but less fine for the kids. We bought pasta and rice three or four times and bread about 5 times during those 4 weeks. I remember the feasts we had in Mbuji Mayi and Kamina: it was not the nutrition, it was the diversity that lacked and that we were cheering back into our lives. But even though we have all described the trip on our respective blogs as ‘horrible’ and ‘crazy’, we enjoyed stretching our limits to new extremes. Congo made us stronger, more focused, albeit less prone to luxuriate in the modern amenities of ‘civilization’. Since Zambia there have been no more bug eating, no more digging for hours in swamps, no more sleeping in rainstorms. Ok, except for that weird Sudan storm, which maybe a brainiac out there could sometime explain to us. Is it crazy then that the two of us and Alper were still talking Congo hours past midnight? Cu opt luni in urma sase adulti si doi copii dadeau nas in nas cu Africa secreta. Noi, calatorii speram ca Vrajitorul acelui Oz ne va elibera din latul prejudecatilor, ne va sterge ‘rugina’ din oase, ne va incuraja sa radem de imposibil, ne va mijloci redescoperirea inimii si a curajului. Am gasit intr-adevar aventura, si am depasit multe obstacole acolo, atat impreuna, cat si separat, dar mai ales i-am descoperit pe congolezi. Acest neam aparte, despre care nu stiam mai nimic. Vulcanic, rezistent, adaptabil, neobosit. Odata ce ai facut o baie de multime si de pasiune congoleza, nimic nu mai e la fel. La opt luni dupa ce parasisem Oz-ul African, acesta continua sa ne obsedeze. Eight months ago our party of six adult and two kids had had an intimate encounter with the unseen Africa. All of us travellers secretly believed that the Wizard of that Oz could free us from our pole of prejudice, remove that routine rust, encourage us to disregard limits, help us rediscover our heart and our courage. We found indeed many adventures and overcame many obstacles on our journey together, just as we did on our separate ways, but most of all we found the Congolese, these special breed of people we knew next to nothing about. The Congolese are volcanic, resilient, relentless, and once you’ve showered in this, you’re hooked. Eight months after returning from the African Land of Oz, we realised that the two of us and Alper are obsessed with our memories of it. In zori ne-am luat la revedere. Aveam o idee fixa pentru ziua in curs: sa facem Transfagarasanul. In the morning we said our goodbyes till next next time.We had a simple plan to make the best of our day: ride the Transfagarasan, arguably one of the best drives in Europe. Adica paduri de pin, curbe stranse, grohotisuri, poate o cascada sau doua, un izvor, un lac alpin, stii cum e. Dar drumul asta construit cu atatea sacrificii inseamna mult mai mult. Cand eram pici, aici ne petreceam cam toate vacantele. Imi amintesc cum urcam spre Capra de revelion, prin zapada pana la brau, incarcati cu oale de sarmale. Eram nebuni, era grozav. Eu si Ana am continuat traditia: aici fugeam de la birou pentru o zi sau doua de dat pe serpentine, sau la un gratar, sau in umbra micii cascade, ‘locul nostru’. Aici e lacul care in anumite dimineti luceste misterios si metalic, si de aici am inceput si de asta data urcusul. Am facut insa prima la dreapta din asphalt, in padure. Hairpins, pine forests, naked rock, maybe a waterfall, a spring or a glacier lake. The staple on this infamous road built in the 70s. But there’s more to Transfagarasan than the call of the bends. When I was a kid that’s where I was spending most holidays. I remember climbing it on new year’s eves, loaded with pots of Romanian dishes, snow up to my waist. It was crazy, it was fun. Me and Ana also have a thing with Transfagarasan, where we would escape during our busy years. There’s this small waterfall we love, the weekends we would come braai, the full-throttle drives we pulled just for the sake of it, the sparrow-infested lake at the 166 m high dam. That’s where we started our climb, taking a right turn off the tar, into the forest. Plecasem din Bucuresti fara harta, doar cu o vaga idee sa o taiem printre brazi, haituind o culme golasa pe care o tot zaream printre arbori. Am decis sa lasam drumul sa ne duca unde o vrea el, si sa lasam ziua sa se intample. We had left Bucharest without a map, with just a rough idea of how we would cut across, and chased this barren peak we would occasionally spot through the pines. We gave up control to the journey and let experiences materialize. La o cotitura am dat peste acest grup de overlanderi. Nici ei nu pareau sa aiba GPS. Coursing through we met this team of overlanders. They didn’t appear to own a GPS either. Intraram pe teritoriul ursilor. We crossed into bear country. Care ursi recoltasera deja zmeura si murele de pe munte, dupa cum se vede din poza. Frecventa si aspectul ‚urmelor’ spun ca din fericire ursii sunt inca pe zona, si ca o duc binisor. The bears had finished harvesting the season’s berries, which can be clearly seen in the photo below. That means that in spite of the overzealous poachers, our bears are still hanging in there. Pe astfel de drumuri zambesc intruna. Numai mirosul tare de pini si buruieni de munte strivite sub roata sunt indeajuns. You’d never see me without a smile on my face on these empty roads. The smell of pine leaves and wild herbs crushed under the wheels give a soul tingling joy. Asa. Like that. Si asa. And like that. Sau asa. Or like that. Dar un om trebuie sa mai faca si o pauza… But a man’s gotta take a break at some point… Mai ales inainte sa urce dealul Especially before a climb Cand panta a sarit de 45 de grade, deja nu mai tineau cauciucurile si mi-ar fi trebuit alta mobra ca sa-I dau de cap. Alta data! When the slope jumped the 45 degrees limit, my tires gave up and I needed a different bike for the task. Next time! Muntele nu doar hraneste sufletul, ci si poteleste setea. Ne-am abatut la un parau langa care era parcata o rulota, si unde erau asternute niste scaune si o masa, taman bune pentru popas. Stapanul micii tabere trebuie ca era pe undeva cu treaba. In fata unei atat de modeste gospodarii, insatietatea si tendinta noastra de oraseni de a abuza de resurse limitate sunt de-a dreptul vulgare. Ne-am baut apa, am zis bodgaproste gazdei anonime si ne-am bucurat de viata. The mountain doesn’t only feed the soul, it also quenches the thirst. We stopped by a spring where a trailer had been parked. The owner must have been out with work. Our city-folk tendencies for inequity, waste and abuse of finite resources always seem vulgar in the face of such humble set-ups. We drank our water in the sun, thankful to the anonymous host and enjoyed being alive. Aproape ca era ora pranzului, si am facut cale intoarsa in Transfagarasan, cu tinta Balea. Un drum pe care nu il pot rezuma in cateva cuvinte, o sa zic doar ca ajunge sa il faci o data, ca sa vrei sa repeti experienta. It was almost lunch time, so we turned back to Transfagarasan. The climb never fails to deliver. It’s not a road you can easily summarize, except to say you’ll invariably want seconds. La 2040 de metri altitudine sunt lacul glaciar si Cabana Balea. Iarna poti sa ajungi aici numai din Brasov, dar fiind vara, ne-am luat masa pe terasa. Pastrav in folie, ciorba de burta, placinta de mere… de-ale romanilor. Cum episodul din Top Gear a facut mai multe pentru turism decat toata balbaiala ministerului cu pricina, deja strainii se inghesuie si ei sa guste din aceste bucate si adrenalina pe Transfagarasan si Transalpina. At 2040 m altitude there’s a glacier lake and a chalet. In winter it is only accessible from Brasov, but as the sun was up we enjoyed our meal on the terrace. Fresh trout, tripe soup, apple pie… Romanian stuff. Nothing too fancy, but if cooked with fresh ingredients and love, can be a welcome discovery. So if you’ve seen the Top Gear episode and you’ve perused the magazines, here’s another reason why you should not exclude Romania from your to-ride-list. Of course give us a shout out, ‘cause even if we’re not around, we can assist with a friendly couch and more. Multe s-au schimbat de cand nu am mai fost pe aici. S-a umplut de tarabe cu ‚taranisme’ (gemuri, branza, afumaturi diverse). Si e full de turisti (noi am fost intr-o miercuri). Lots have changed within the year. There’s a heap of tourist activities being developed and the denizens and their traditional produce stalls have multiplied. Smoked bacon, sausages, cheeses, preserves etc. And no, this article has not been sponsored by the inept Romanian ministry of tourism. Am ridicat din umeri la gandul ca poate toate astea o sa stirbeasca farmecul locului – si am pornit inspre de unde venisem. Worrying a bit about the potential boom of the industry and of how it could bring down the charm of Transfagarasan – still a lonely road in my book – we started the descent back. Nimic nu e mai fain ca abisul verde al vaii brazdate de curbe, unde vantul mai sa te doboare si unde norii intuneca cerul. Am facut drumul asta in toate anotimpurile, si cel mai mult imi place la inceput de iunie, cand zapezile inca nu s-au dus, iar cascadele sunt pline de apa. Nothing beats the views, the smell of wind threatening to take you down, the open valley where cloudscapes conglomerate. I’ve driven this road in all seasons and I think early June is best, when snow caps aren’t yet melted and the waterfalls are in full swing. Am aruncat un ochi in mina abandonata. We took a peek at the abandoned mine Ne-am oprit si la Capra, unde cea mai aratoasa militie canina se ocupa cu manatul oilor in stana. We stopped by our ‘place’, the Goat Falls. The sheep were being herded home by the handsomest canine militia. Drumul inapoi in Bucuresti a fost intins si lung, dar a fost bine sa stim unde o sa punem capul jos la noapte. Acasa ne putem odihni alaturi de cei dragi. Am umblat multa vreme prin Africa am vazut multe locuri extrordinare si am intalnit multi oameni buni, iar acum, dupa ce ne-am incarcat putin cu natura, parca avem si mai mare dor de duca. Cum sunt multe de facut si de lamurit, ne suflecam manecile si ne punem pe treaba! It was a long ride to Bucharest, but we were glad to have such a tangible target to aim at. Home is a place of great meaning, where we can rest and where we can be near to people we care about. We have been away in the wilds of Africa for many months, we’ve seen a lot of amazing places and met many incredibly kind people, and now, after recharging with nature, we are hungry for more. There’s just a lot to sort out. I wonder if I can roll up my sleeves and make all the administrative bullshit that comes with it my bitch. Sursa

Hai sa ne cunoastem! Am gasit unde sa parcam fotografii, un scurt film si alte lucruri interesante, si unde putem povesti despre Africa la o cola/bere. Asa ca pe 25 octombrie va invitam in Garajul McCann Erickson, pe strada Jules Michelet nr. 18 (zona Piata Romana, langa Ambasada Marii Britanii). Iata si un teaser Into The World @Africa :)

7 octombrie 2010 vs. 7 octombrie 2012 Astazi se implinesc 2 ani de cand ziua in care urma sa plecam sa cucerim Africa s-a sfarsit in mod tragic. Operatie, mobra facuta praf, planuri amanate cu 9 luni amare. Dar tot azi suntem norocosi sa putem sarbatori 2 ani intensi, plin de aventura si lectii de viata. Va multumim pentru ca ne urmariti, iti multumim Mama Africa!

Today we mark 2 years since disaster hit right on the day we were set to go conquer Africa. Surgery, motorbike destroyed, plans reset by 9 bleak months. But today we are also lucky to celebrate 2 awesome full-throttle years of adventure and self-discovery. Thank you all for following, thank you Mother Africa! _____________ Astazi se implinesc 2 ani de cand ziua in care urma sa plecam sa cucerim Africa s-a sfarsit in mod tragic. Operatie, mobra facuta praf, planuri amanate cu 9 luni amare. Dar tot azi suntem norocosi sa putem sarbatori 2 ani intensi, plin de aventura si lectii de viata. Va multumim pentru ca ne urmariti, iti multumim Mama Africa! Sursa