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Light is right, less is more… however you say it, it’s the mantra of many a minimalist-packing adventure rider. Even if you’re not a minimalist, at some point during your adventures you’ve probably looked over at a riding buddy’s lightly-packed machine while struggling through a challenging trail and wondered, “How did they get all their stuff in there?”. The idea behind Mosko Moto’s Reckless 40L, now in its third iteration, is to make minimalist packing a little easier. It’s the ‘Tiny Home’ of luggage where everything has a place and use of limited space is maximized.
The Reckless 40L is a rugged, rackless, waterproof luggage system that fits a range of different motorcycles, designed for longer day rides and short-term trips. It starts with an adjustable base harness to accommodate either enduro or ADV seat ws. Two side pockets hold removable dry bags (14 liters each) that strap securely in place and feature a clear window panel so you can see what’s packed inside. While on top, beaver-tail flaps snuggly hold the included Stinger 8L dry bag along with any other items you can stuff in there (e.g. waterproof or base layers). The Stinger 8L is also a standalone tail bag, with its own straps, that can be mounted to a rear rack or it can double as a backpack for off-the-bike excursions.
MOLLE webbing on the exterior of the Beavertail increases the range of expansion options.
The 14L waterproof sidebags use welded seams and feature a clear window so you can see what’s inside.
Each side bag pocket on the harness also features a sewn-on back pocket (2 liters each) with a roll-top enclosure. These are designed for stuffing tools, tubes, fuel bottles, a first aid kit or other items you need quick access to that don’t need to be fully waterproof protected. The beaver-tail has a clear inner pocket as well, which is great for storing your travel documents or keeping a map handy on the trail.
External rear pockets on each side are ideal for fuel or water storage.
Need a little more capacity? The Reckless 40L offers Molle panels on the front of the harness legs that allow you to strap on various Molle accessories. Molle webbing has been added to the exterior of the Beaver-tail as well to further increase the range of expansion options. You can also replace the Stinger 8L with a Stinger 22L using the expansion panel on the beaver-tail to accommodate the extra girth. With this configuration, capacity is increased to a total of 54 liters. To further improve versatility, you can also change the orientation of the top bag to run either inline or perpendicular to the bike.
The default tailbag is the Stinger 8L, which also turns into a backpack or can be used as a stand-alone top bag.
ADVERTISEMENTThe luggage system is built to withstand the range of abuse encountered during off-road riding as well, utilizing a 1600D Ballistic Nylon shell featuring Bomber Hypalon armor panels protecting the sides in a fall. Front and rear attachment straps, along with most of the major straps or buckles, can also be replaced in the event they are damaged in a fall. Plus, the bag comes with an exhaust heat shield to prevent the material from melting on a hot muffler.
Getting It Installed
Before you can mount the Reckless 40L, there is some assembly required and some decisions to be made. First you’ll want to select either the Narrow or Wide setting for the base mount. Narrow is for dirt bikes and enduros like a Suzuki DR-Z 400 or KTM 690 Enduro. Most adventure bikes, even smaller ones like the Royal Enfield Himalayan or KTM 390 Adventure, will use the Wide setting.
Once the w has been selected, you can mount the legs to the base using the provided hardware. Getting the allen key bolts to thread into the T-nut backing plates can be a little challenging at first. It takes some patience and strong fingers to press the backing plates into the material far enough to get the bolt to start threading.
The Reckless 40’s capacity can be easily expanded by replacing the Stinger 8L with a Stinger 22L Tailbag. Also, the Beavertail can be rotated to run your top bag parallel or perpendicular to the bike.
Next you can choose between either standard or transverse beaver-tail orientation depending on your personal preference. The standard orientation will allow you to access the top bag opening from the side, while the transverse mounting will give you access from the rear. Hooking the beaver-tail in place takes just seconds with the provided clips, so you can switch the orientation easily at any time.
Once the base harness has been configured, you drape it over the bike to get your desired positioning, then loosely strap it in place with the four cam buckle mounting straps. The leg straps attach to the frame or passenger peg mounts, while the rear straps can be secured to bodywork around the tail light or a top rack if you have one. Next, load your dry bags with all your gear and slip them into their respective pockets, strapping them in securely. Then add various items to the roll-top rear pockets, give the mounting straps a final tug, secure the extra lashing material with the included Velcro holders, and you’re done.
How It Performed
So how does the R40 work in the real world? Can we even get all our stuff in there? We’ve been testing the Reckless 40L for two seasons now on a wide range of different machines, covering thousands of miles and multiple trips, big, medium and small. Here’s what we’ve found…
Standard Configuration (with Stinger 8L):
This is the kind of setup you’d use for primarily off-road ADV trips where you want to pack as light as possible so you can ride harder. Like any minimalist set up, you’ll need to make tough decisions about what you bring and don’t bring. If you are staying in hotels, you’ll have room to spare. Although, if you plan on camping, It takes time to pack strategically and some things you carry may need to be reconfigured when you are working with 40 liters. For instance, I had to break up my bulky tool bag into smaller packages to get everything to fit into the rear roll-top pockets.
Once you get this setup dialed in, it will pay dividends on the trail. As for performance, the R40 fits snug on a small enduro or adventure bike with very little wiggling around. The dry bags have compression straps along the sides, around the middle and over the top, so that nothing moves. They also stay tight against the bike and don’t flap around. There’s a good amount of extra room in the beaver-tail as well for storing a waterproof jacket or ad hoc items from the store if you need to.
As far as the size, the bag stays out of the way during typical adventure riding, especially on a larger machine. With the Stinger 8L on back, the h of the bag is fairly low so you can move your weight back over it when you need to. As for aggressive off-road riding, I noticed an occasional tap from the bag when hammering through whoops or jumps on a small bike but that is to be expected when carrying camping gear. I also noticed, the legs of the bags sometimes rub against my calves when getting back on the bike, although I didn’t mind it too much because I could actually use it to push off with my legs to get my weight back forward in some situations.
Packing light makes it all worth it when you squeeze through trees on technical single track and rip hill rocky climbs on your way to some spectacular place to camp for the night. For an ADV Lite setup, 40 liters seems just about right.
For this ADV Lite setup, the system with all camping gear loaded weighed 31 pounds. The bag alone weighs 10.5 pounds.
Stripped Down: Sometimes you are just out for a day trip or you’ve dropped your gear at camp and just need the basics for your ride (tools, spare tube, snacks, extra layers, water, etc.). With the Reckless 40L, you can remove the beaver-tail assembly and ride with just the side bags. This gives you more mobility on the trail when hanging your weight off the back of the bike or going through big hits. It also keeps the weight you are carrying down lower on the bike for an improved CG. For a day ride, there is plenty of room to spare when running just the side bags.
Alternatively, you can take the harness off completely and just use the Stinger 8L as a tool bag mounted on a rear rack. The bag has its own compression straps that allow you to easily mount in a variety of locations. There’s plenty of room for tools, spare tube, extra layers, and more. You can use the compression straps and roll top enclosure to take up any extra room as well. It’s quite a versatile luggage piece that can be used as an auxiliary bag strapped to panniers or you can even convert it into a backpack.
Expedition Mode: For longer camping trips riding to remote places, you are likely carrying a lot more items like extra water for the heat or thick layers for the cold. For these types of rides, Mosko Moto updated the R40 in 2021 to allow you to swap out the Stinger 8L top bag for the Stinger 22L. This expansion gets you 54 liters of total capacity, which is much more doable for bigger adventures.
A cold weather sleeping bag will fit in the Stinger 22, along with some additional clothing items. Once you start stuffing the side legs with all your gear, it definitely gets tight, especially if you need to bring extra water when rough camping in remote areas. Once you’ve got the larger top bag installed, you do notice it getting in the way more on a smaller machine. On a larger adventure bike, you are able to shift it back further beyond the passenger seat where it’s out of the way. It’s also a tight fit in the beaver-tail if you want to stuff additional layers in there like a chair or a tent pole bag. It’s doable, it just takes careful packing to ensure things don’t slip out.
Overall, if you do a lot of light ADV trips or short day trips, plus the occasional long-range trip, you could adapt this bag with various Molle expansion options to be your ‘only’ luggage option. For instance, add an auxiliary bag to store your goggles or first aid kit, giving you some additional room in the main compartments. If you need more capacity, Mosko offers an 80L Reckless system for longer expeditions.
Quality/Durability: The overall quality of the product is very high. Everything from the heavy-duty compression straps that don’t slip to the thick foam padding of the base harness that helps protect plastics, are well thought out design elements and you can see the attention to every detail. The abrasion resistance from light falls has been excellent so far. The harness takes all the abuse so that dry bags continue to maintain their 100% waterproofing. No buckles have broken and no straps have frayed yet after thousands of miles of hard riding.
Convenience: The R40 comes with many convenience features that make living with the bag on a multi-day trip much easier. For one, you can easily un-snap the buckles on the compression straps holding the two side bags and top bag, then pull out all the dry bags in a matter of seconds and carry them into your tent or hotel with the roll-top closures doubling as handles. This allows you to keep the harness on the bike and avoid messing with the mounting straps. You can also get all your bags packed and fully compressed with more leverage off the bike, then just slide them into their slots and strap them into the harness.
That beaver-tail is mighty nice for strapping down extra cargo too when you are in a rush and don’t want to open up your bags. Plus that map pocket comes in handy for a quick look at a paper map or grabbing your documents. The sewn-on rear pockets are also ideal for storing a tool roll and spare tube. You always know where the tools are and you can get to them quickly for any trailside adjustments.
The Beavertail includes a clear inner pocket ideal for storing maps, documents and other flat items.
Who’s It for?
Whether you ride a big bike or small, Mosko Moto’s compact 40-liter luggage system is ideal for day rides and shorter trips, especially for riders who are staying in hotels. Minimalist packers with compact backpacking gear, who are willing to take just the basics, will find it useful for moto camping adventures in the standard configuration. If you need more space, the system has good expansion capabilities, although it’s still going to be a tight fit for longer motocamping journeys where day-to-day creature comforts become a bigger concern.
Our Verdict
The R40 is a versatile, compact off-road luggage system for shorter rides or overnighters where you don’t need to carry a lot of gear, with the expansion capability to work for the occasional big ride as well. Smartly-designed features make packing efficient and staying organized convenient, while maintaining a streamlined profile for aggressive off-road rides. Plus, its premium and robust build with replaceable components ensures this luggage system will last a long time.
What We Liked
- A well-thought-out soft bag that makes accessing items quick and convenient.
- Stays strapped on tight and keeps a low profile during aggressive off-road riding.
- Easily adaptable for a range of different storage capacities.
- Efficient use of limited space.
What Could Be Improved
- On the pricey side.
Mosko Moto Reckless 40L Specs
- Total Capacity: 40 liters
- Two 14L Drybags
- Two 2L rear pockets
- One 8L Stinger tailbag
- Measured Weight: 10.5 pounds
- Base Harness Materials: 1680D Ballistic Nylon with Hypalon armor
- Dry Bags Material: 100% waterproof durable 800D polyurethane coated (PVC free) with welded-seams
- Price: $520
Shopping Options
Photos Rob Dabney, Stephen Gregory, Spencer Hill
Author: Rob Dabney
Rob Dabney started a lifelong obsession with motorcycles at the age of 15 when he purchased his first bike – a 1982 Honda MB5. Through his 20’s and 30’s he competed in off-road desert races, including the Baja 250, 500 and 1000. Eventually, his proclivity for exploration led him to dual sport and adventure riding. Rob’s never-ending quest to discover what’s around the next bend has taken him on Adventures in Mexico, North Africa, Europe, and throughout the American West. As a moto journalist, he enjoys inspiring others to seek adventure across horizons both near and far. -
According to recent certification data filed with the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and the California Air Resources Board, Honda will be bringing two more smaller-size dual-sport machines to the American market for the 2023 model year. Though yet to be announced by Honda, cyber sleuthing at motorcycle.com ascertained the new models to be a CRF300LS and XR150L.
We already have the CRF300L and CRF300L Rally of course, and while American Honda is late to the game announcing some bikes expected in its 2023 lineup, it can be assumed both will return. If the US gets the updates that have already been released to the European market, the base L model will come stock with hand guards and be available in a new Swift Grey colorway, accented with orange graphics, a nice option that joins Honda’s usual Extreme Red getup.
The LS version of the popular 286cc single powered CRF300 is speculated to be code for a low seat option, an offering many will appreciate considering the L’s 34.7-inch saddle is on the high side. The S designation makes sense when you look at Kawasaki’s now standard practice of tagging its lower seat h dual sports with an S, in particular the KLX230S and KLR650S, which both offer seat h around two inches lower than their standard counterparts. Certainly there’s a market for these more approachable versions, bikes newcomers or shorter riders can feel comfortable on, without needing to source an aftermarket seat h solution straight out of the gate.
ADVERTISEMENTIt’s unknown whether the adaptations would include suspension and other ergonomic changes, but it’s unlikely Honda will just slap on a different seat and call it good. Also, knowing consumers aren’t having an easy time getting their hands on these popular CRF300 models from Honda, adding a new lower seat variant might help spread out demand. When we reviewed the CRF300L and Rally upon their arrival in the US in 2021, we found them both to be viable options for average-sized riders looking for an easy to ride and accessible all-rounder dual sport or a starter mount they won’t grow out of quickly.
The XR150L features an electric starter with a kick start back up option, an engine balancer to reduce vibrations, as well as an offset crankshaft and roller rockers.
Now the XR150L is something new to the US market. It’s already been proven in the Asian market, and in Australia and New Zealand, where it’s marketed as a farm bike. We see that it’s powered by a 149cc air-cooled, carbureted single built by China’s Sundiro Honda, an incorporated Honda subsidiary since 2001. The engine is recorded in EPA data to produce 12.5 hp at 7750 rpm. That power is transferred via a five-speed transmission and initiated with electric start or a back-up kickstarter.
Looking at current specs in countries where it’s available, the XR150L’s suspension travel is 7.1 inches up front via a telescopic fork and 5.9 inches in the rear via a mono shock swingarm. Both wheels are spoked with a dual piston caliper 240mm disc slowing a 19-inch front, and a drum brake managing a 17-inch rear wheel. The little dual sport comes with a manageable 32.4 in seat h and 284 pound curb weight, very kind for beginners. Fuel capacity is a legit 3.2 gallons, which is bigger than the CRF300L’s 2.1 gallon tank..
How nice to have more lightweight, dual-sport options on the way. A low seat CRF300L is bound to interest many, and we can think of all kinds of duties and mischief for the XR150L, as long as its price is equally purposeful.
Honda XR150L Specs
Engine Type Air-cooled 4-stroke Displacement 149cc Bore & Stroke (mm) 57.3 x 57.8 Cylinders 1 Compression Ratio 9.5:1 Fuel System Carburetor Starter Electric and kick Valves 2 Brakes (F) 1x disc Brakes (R) Drum Front Adjustability – Front Suspension Type Telescopic fork Front Wheel Travel 180mm Rear Adjustability – Rear Suspension Type Single Shock Rear Wheel Travel 150mm Fuel Capacity 12L Wheelbase 1,360mm Ground Clearance 245mm Overall Height 1,125mm Overall Length 2,090mm Overall Width 810mm Seat Height 825mm Kerb Weight 130kg Transmission 5-speed Drive Chain Tires (F) 70/100-19 Tires (R) 110/90-17 Warranty 12 months Author: Jamie Elvidge
Jamie has been a motorcycle journalist for more than 30 years, testing the entire range of bikes for the major print magazines and specializing in adventure-travel related stories. To date she’s written and supplied photography for articles describing what it’s like to ride in all 50 states and 43 foreign countries, receiving two Lowell Thomas Society of American Travel Writer’s Awards along the way. Her most-challenging adventure yet has been riding in the 2018 GS Trophy in Mongolia as Team AusAmerica’s embedded journalist. -
According to recent certification data filed with the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and the California Air Resources Board, Honda will be bringing two more smaller-size dual-sport machines to the American market for the 2023 model year. Though yet to be announced by Honda, cyber sleuthing at motorcycle.com ascertained the new models to be a CRF300LS and XR150L.
We already have the CRF300L and CRF300L Rally of course, and while American Honda is late to the game announcing some bikes expected in its 2023 lineup, it can be assumed both will return. If the US gets the updates that have already been released to the European market, the base L model will come stock with hand guards and be available in a new Swift Grey colorway, accented with orange graphics, a nice option that joins Honda’s usual Extreme Red getup.
The LS version of the popular 286cc single powered CRF300 is speculated to be code for a low seat option, an offering many will appreciate considering the L’s 34.7-inch saddle is on the high side. The S designation makes sense when you look at Kawasaki’s now standard practice of tagging its lower seat h dual sports with an S, in particular the KLX230S and KLR650S, which both offer seat h around two inches lower than their standard counterparts. Certainly there’s a market for these more approachable versions, bikes newcomers or shorter riders can feel comfortable on, without needing to source an aftermarket seat h solution straight out of the gate.
ADVERTISEMENTIt’s unknown whether the adaptations would include suspension and other ergonomic changes, but it’s unlikely Honda will just slap on a different seat and call it good. Also, knowing consumers aren’t having an easy time getting their hands on these popular CRF300 models from Honda, adding a new lower seat variant might help spread out demand. When we reviewed the CRF300L and Rally upon their arrival in the US in 2021, we found them both to be viable options for average-sized riders looking for an easy to ride and accessible all-rounder dual sport or a starter mount they won’t grow out of quickly.
The XR150L features an electric starter with a kick start back up option, an engine balancer to reduce vibrations, as well as an offset crankshaft and roller rockers.
Now the XR150L is something new to the US market. It’s already been proven in the Asian market, and in Australia and New Zealand, where it’s marketed as a farm bike. We see that it’s powered by a 149cc air-cooled, carbureted single built by China’s Sundiro Honda, an incorporated Honda subsidiary since 2001. The engine is recorded in EPA data to produce 12.5 hp at 7750 rpm. That power is transferred via a five-speed transmission and initiated with electric start or a back-up kickstarter.
Looking at current specs in countries where it’s available, the XR150L’s suspension travel is 7.1 inches up front via a telescopic fork and 5.9 inches in the rear via a mono shock swingarm. Both wheels are spoked with a dual piston caliper 240mm disc slowing a 19-inch front, and a drum brake managing a 17-inch rear wheel. The little dual sport comes with a manageable 32.4 in seat h and 284 pound curb weight, very kind for beginners. Fuel capacity is a legit 3.2 gallons, which is bigger than the CRF300L’s 2.1 gallon tank..
How nice to have more lightweight, dual-sport options on the way. A low seat CRF300L is bound to interest many, and we can think of all kinds of duties and mischief for the XR150L, as long as its price is equally purposeful.
Honda XR150L Specs
Engine Type Air-cooled 4-stroke Displacement 149cc Bore & Stroke (mm) 57.3 x 57.8 Cylinders 1 Compression Ratio 9.5:1 Fuel System Carburetor Starter Electric and kick Valves 2 Brakes (F) 1x disc Brakes (R) Drum Front Adjustability – Front Suspension Type Telescopic fork Front Wheel Travel 180mm Rear Adjustability – Rear Suspension Type Single Shock Rear Wheel Travel 150mm Fuel Capacity 12L Wheelbase 1,360mm Ground Clearance 245mm Overall Height 1,125mm Overall Length 2,090mm Overall Width 810mm Seat Height 825mm Kerb Weight 130kg Transmission 5-speed Drive Chain Tires (F) 70/100-19 Tires (R) 110/90-17 Warranty 12 months Author: Jamie Elvidge
Jamie has been a motorcycle journalist for more than 30 years, testing the entire range of bikes for the major print magazines and specializing in adventure-travel related stories. To date she’s written and supplied photography for articles describing what it’s like to ride in all 50 states and 43 foreign countries, receiving two Lowell Thomas Society of American Travel Writer’s Awards along the way. Her most-challenging adventure yet has been riding in the 2018 GS Trophy in Mongolia as Team AusAmerica’s embedded journalist. -
Nestled in California’s northeastern corner lies Lassen Volcanic National Park and the surrounding National Forest — a desolate volcanic paradise connected by an endless mesh of forest roads and trails. The landscape is teeming with volcanic cinder cones, inspiring vistas, unique wildlife, and high alpine lakes. With its burbling pits of sulfuric acid, fumaroles spewing noxious fumes, and dozens of active and inactive volcanoes, you wouldn’t be faulted for mistaking this incredible place for Yellowstone.
As one of California’s less visited national parks, Lassen is a hidden gem just dying to be explored by motorcycle. No matter your experience level, the twisted stretches of pavement, high plains covered in volcanic gravel, and numerous passes carving in and around stunning forests give you a range of options to customize your adventure — no matter if you are looking for an adrenaline rush or just peace and tranquility.
After exploring Lassen on several trips, we’ve come up with an epic adventure bike route that showcases some of the most unique points of interest. We also put together all the information you need to plan your own Adventure Ride in the region, including an interactive map, GPS tracks with top destinations, intriguing natural wonders, scenic camp spots, and more. It would be easy to babble on about the inspiration this area forces upon you, but why not see for yourself starting with this list of 10 must-see spots in and around California’s volcanic masterpiece.
1. Sulphur Works
ADVERTISEMENTBilled as the most accessible of Lassen’s attractions, Sulphur Works is just past the Lassen Volcanic National Park’s southern entrance. If you miss the billowing steam on the edge of the road, you definitely won’t miss the distinct smell that comes with bubbling pools of sulfur and sulphuric acid. It is believed that Sulphur Works is what remains of the central vent of extinct Mount Tehama — an 11,500-foot-tall volcano that would have dominated the landscape some 360,000 years ago. Whether your interest is one from a geological perspective, or if it simply comes from wanting a first hand glimpse of the power harnessed within our planet’s core — Sulphur Works shouldn’t be missed on your visit.
2. Bumpass Hell
Evidence of this now eroded stratovolcano make up the entirety of this region of the park. You’d have to be without most of your senses to miss the boiling pits of sulfur and acid that follow the road; their strong smell, the sound resembling that of a distant jet engine, and visual chaos that occur give a glimpse of what must be occurring inside the Earth’s crust. As the road carves deeper into the park, it becomes clear that this volcano is far from extinct. It would be a fool’s errand to come all this way and not take time to hike through Bumpass Hell. A few twists, turns, and stunning vistas of alpine lakes backed up against Tehama’s remnants practically drops you right on top of it.
Named for Kendall Bumpass who lost his leg after accidentally stepping through the top layer of crust, Bumpass Hell is an area where the Lassen’s volcanic activity is on concentrated display. After a short hike, visitors find themselves surrounded by numerous pools of acid, mud, and fumaroles venting noxious gas and steam from the magma chamber which feeds Lassen’s eruptive capability. Like the smaller pits leading to this portion of the park, the sensory overload must be experienced to be truly appreciated, though here it’s on a much larger scale. It’s as though the ground is angrily hissing as if to warn of an impending eruption, something the peak did as recently as 1915 when the mountain exploded sending ash nearly 300 miles East. Stay on the designated walking trail and follow park regulations.
The hike to and from Bumpass Hell can be completed in little more than an hour and is absolutely worth setting time aside for, if for no other reason than to enjoy how greatly the park contrasts from hellacious resentment to the peaceful tranquility of adjacent Lake Helen. Though the hike is relatively short, water is a necessity as the altitude quickly reveals any weakness in your workout regiment. Beyond the turn for Bumpass Hell lies the trailhead for Lassen Peak as well as numerous day use areas, and a myriad of other places to explore the backcountry on foot. On the way through, there’s a couple of well cared for campgrounds if your adventure keeps you exploring within Lassen’s core for longer.
3. Subway Lava Tube Cave
Formed when lava cools on the surface, these tubes serve as an underground conduit for lava to flow to its respective destination. When the source of that lava runs dry, what’s left is a hardened cave-like outer shell called a lava tube. Like most caves, temperatures tend to remain very consistent and during our visit, Subway Cave served as a refreshing way to escape the heat we found below Lassen Peak.
Once inside, it doesn’t take long to immerse yourself into total darkness. Having left our headlamps on the bikes, we resorted to using the light on our mobile phones to find the opposite end of the cave. While sufficient, a better source of light is recommended. The ⅓ mile trail through the lava tube loops from one side of the parking lot back to the other, so expect no more than a quarter of a mile worth of walking from start to finish.
4. “SETI” Allen Telescope Array
In the vast wilderness that is Lassen National Forest, there is a site borne from our human desire to find intelligent life in outer space. In fact, the Allen Telescope Array (Berkeley SETI Institute) has been tasked with listening for extraterrestrial sounds since 2005. Cool as it sounds, SETI is simply an acronym that translates to “Search for Extraterrestrial Intelligence.”
Photo by brewbooks
This very Earthly site even gives off visuals that could just as soon be found in a Sci-Fi film. The 90-acre site is dotted with a few dozen radio telescopes whose primary tasks are measuring magnetic fields, determining quantities of intergalactic gas, and scanning more than a million stars to detect SETI related emissions.
If you plan to drop in, be sure to plan accordingly. They’re open to the public with limited hours, namely on Thursday & Friday – 9:00AM – 3:00PM.
5. Camp Harvey
Hard pressed to miss this one in your peripheral vision, Camp Harvey was a logging camp established by the Red River Logging Co. in 1943, though it was soon sold to Fruit Growers Supply Company in 1944. It remained in service for the next few years providing loggers a dry bed, and warm meals. The property was littered with cabins, a commissary, cookhouse, a water tower, and even its own narrow-gauge rail connecting to Hall’s Flat via. 40 miles of track. All of that came to a halt in 1949 though, when Fruit Growers leased the commissary and cookhouse responsibilities to another company, which soon thereafter saw its employees go on strike.
This left Camp Harvey loggers without meals, and without food, loggers rapidly vacated the site, signaling the end for the logging camp. All that stands today is the water storage and pumping system that once supported the workers who kept the logging camp bustling. Today the off-kilter remnants of the tower leer above while the wilderness slowly reclaims the camp. Across the road lie the remnants of the narrow gauge rail that also supported the camp.
6. Harvey Mountain Fire Lookout
Built in 1919, Harvey Mountain Lookout is one of California’s longest continually manned fire lookouts and is still staffed today during fire season. At 7,354 feet, the Lookout offers expansive 360° views of Lassen Volcanic National Park and beyond. While Lassen Peak is easily seen from the tower, on clear days you can also see Mount Shasta, and to the East clear into Nevada.
The tower still uses its original Osborne Fire Finder, a device developed in the early 1900s designed to precisely pinpoint the location of a flare up, helping ground crews to rapidly locate and extinguish wildland fires. In warmer weather, keep your eyes peeled as you explore the roads leading up and down the mountain, as there’s a good chance you’ll spot a bear or two.
7. Antelope Mountain Fire Lookout
Surrounded by a mesh of roads, Antelope Mountain Fire Lookout is another fantastic place to soak up the scenery. With crystal clear views of Eagle Lake (California’s 2nd largest natural lake, located entirely within its borders), and an amazing network of forest service roads and trails leading to its Summit, this is a peak that shouldn’t be missed. At 7,687feet and built in 1931, Antelope Mountain’s lookout was the first fire lookout in the US to be solar powered when it was fitted with a solar array in 1978. The tower’s hexagonal shape makes the architecture all the more unique to this region.
8. Silver Lake
During our most recent visit, Lassen National Forest’s Silver Lake popped up on our radar. If you’re out seeking spectacular lakeside vistas, flanked by dramatic jagged cliffs and stunning firs, there’s no better spot to set up shop for the evening. Silver Lake’s unmanaged campground, combined with the lake’s remote location, means you’ll be sure to get a good night’s rest perched on the shores of this absolutely breathtaking lake. For those not wanting to rough it, there are also numerous cabins dotting the shoreline that can be reserved for a relaxing night at one of Lassen’s many hidden gems.
The lake is shallow enough that during the summer months, water temperatures are perfectly mild making it a fantastic place for a dip to refresh after a long day in the saddle. If fishing is more your speed, the lake is filled with trout trying to avoid being seen by the numerous Osprey and other raptors that make Lassen National Forest their home.
9. Cinder Cone
Photo by Lassen NPS
With its last major eruption in 1666, Cinder Cone is a nearly perfect dome made up of unvegetated scoria (a type of dark, porous volcanic rock). This Volcano’s flanks dominate an already alien landscape and make the short, but steep hike worth it. Be sure to pack some shoes if you intend to take the trail all the way to the summit as the loose substrate and sand that makeup the path are not easily hiked in motorcycle boots. Other notable sights in the area are the Painted Dunes at the base of Cinder Cone, and Sunrise Peak on the opposite side of Butte Lake.
10. Butte Lake
We couldn’t recommend Cinder Cone without also mentioning Butte Lake. Originally Butte and Snag Lake were combined until the volcano’s last eruption spewed oozed lava over the original lake, splitting it in two. On the North end and with its very own National Park entrance, Butte Lake is found, with Snag Lake approximately three miles to the South. Butte Lake offers non-motorized boating, numerous hikes, and a visually stunning place to prop your feet up at their remote and beautifully managed campground. If it’s otherworldly views you’re seeking, hike the volcanic boulders surrounding the lake’s perimeter for a truly out-of-this-world panoramic vista of Lassen National Forest’s Northern border.
Planning Your Trip
Riding Terrain: The provided tracks are near enough to 50% pavement and 50% dirt, though Lassen’s forest service and fire roads are mostly meticulously cared for. Even so, the tracks do contain a handful of short sections dotted with rocks and technical scrambles. The vast majority of the off-pavement tracks are decidedly sympathetic to less seasoned riders, though the less-traveled route to Antelope Mountain Lookout, and some of the tracks before and around Camp Harvey can get a bit loose and poorly maintained.
Everything on the provided track is manageable on even larger adventure bikes, so long as the rider brings along an intermediate skill level at navigating poorly maintained roads. While nothing particularly technical is required, there are a few spots that can easily be gone around with a bit of planning.
The region is largely without major services, and the longest stretch between fuel is between Old Station and Susanville — approximately 100-120 miles depending on how you decide to cut across the national forest. This is a place where riding with a buddy is advised due to the area’s remoteness, and make sure to bring ample food, fuel, water, tools, a first aid kit, and an emergency GPS messaging device.
Weather: Winter makes the area inaccessible between November and April each year, give or take a month depending on snowfall. The area is best enjoyed in early Fall and Late Spring, as Summers can get hot despite the altitude. May through June, as well as August through September see temperatures ranging from night time lows of 39° F to day time highs of 85° F — the extremes of which occur toward the beginning or ending of the given season. On our last visit in August , we saw temperatures range from nearly triple digits during the day down to mid-40s at night. Since rideable portions of Lassen can exceed 8,000 feet, riding gear that can be layered, but also promotes good ventilation is advised. Temperatures can vary greatly in a relatively small area due the constantly changing altitude.
Camping/Lodging: The national forest provides countless options for dispersed, primitive, and established camping. Most unmanned USFS campgrounds in the area charge $10 a night and include fire rings, tables, pit toilets, and are reserved on a first-come first-serve basis. The National Park Service has a handful of campgrounds in Lassen National Park, both near Lassen Peak as well as near Butte Lake. These sites have running water but must be reserved online in advance at recreation.gov. Silver Lake offers numerous options to stay in a cabin, the rates of which vary greatly depending on the season and their availability..
Maps and GPS Tracks
We’ve put together a route through Lassen that will allow you to visit all the places mentioned in this Ride Guide and more during a 3-day trip. Detailed GPX tracks and a larger interactive map are available for download free.*
* Terms of Use: Should you decide to explore a route that is published on ADV Pulse, you assume the risk of any resulting injury, loss or damage suffered as a result. The route descriptions, maps and GPS tracks provided are simply a planning resource to be used as a point of inspiration in conjunction with your own due diligence. It is your responsibility to evaluate the route accuracy as well as the current condition of trails and roads, your vehicle readiness, personal fitness and local weather when independently determining whether to use or adapt any of the information provided here.
Photos by Rob Dabney
Author: Ken Morse
While Ken’s two-wheeled exploits began only a few years ago, he’s no stranger to adventure. Since 2006, he’s been wandering all over the U.S. in various four-wheel drive toys, exploring as much hidden terrain in the backcountry as possible. Having straddled his first motorcycle in 2019, he quickly became obsessed and made the switch to two wheels. Now he spends most of his free time riding, wrenching and traveling on adventure motorcycles from his base in California’s Sierra Nevada Mountain Range. -
Published on 01.17.2023
Giant Loop has announced the release of new collapsible water reservoirs to safely transport essential hydration during outdoor adventures. Dubbed the Cactus Canteen, the water containers are rugged enough to withstand a lot of trail abuse and are available in 1- and 2-gallon capacities.
The lightweight water reservoirs are highly flexible and feature a double layered construction that protects a tough, food grade BPA-free water bladder inside of a highly abrasion-resistant outer shell that can be secured to motorcycles, UTVs and the exteriors of 4×4 and overland vehicles.
Dispensing hose with on/off valve provides controlled flow and stashes away when not in use.
The Cactus Canteen’s quick-connect hose with valve dispenses water for washing or drinking, and the universal connector accepts many popular hydration accessories, such as a shower head attachment. When not in use, the hose tucks inside a zippered opening to keep it clean. For filling and dispensing, the Cactus Canteen hangs from an adjustable strap, which also holds the empty water bag in a space-saving roll. The easy filling wide-mouth cap is compatible with many popular water filters.
Hangs from adjustable strap to conveniently fill or dispense potable water.
ADVERTISEMENTHigh-visibility reflective daisy chains integrate with Giant Loop’s packing systems and other solid connections to securely anchor the Cactus Canteen to any vehicle without it sliding out from under straps. In keeping with Giant Loop “go light, go fast, go far” design approach, the Cactus Canteens weigh just ounces when empty, and they are backed by the company’s limited lifetime warranty.
Empty Canteens roll up or pack flat, saving space. The reservoirs feature high-visibility reflective daisy chains to securely anchor the Cactus Canteen to your motorcycle.
The 1-gallon (3.8-liter) Cactus Canteen weighs 9.3 ounces empty and the 2-gallon (7.6-liter) weighs 12.5 ounces. When filled, they measure 11.5 inches and 14 inches in length respectively. USA MSRP starts at $79. For more information go to giantloopmoto.com.
CACTUS CANTEEN MATERIALS
- Bladder: Food-grade TPU film (BPA free)
- Cover: 840D nylon with laminated TPU
- Reflective webbing
- YKK zipper
- Universal hydration quick-connect fitting
- Aluminum hook
DIMENSIONS (1 Gallon / 2 Gallon)
- VOLUME: 3.8 L / 7.6 L
- LENGTH (FLAT): 11.5″ (29.2 cm) / 14” (35.6 cm)
- WIDTH (FLAT): 7″ (17.8 cm) / 10″ (25.4 cm)
- ROLLED CIRCUMFERENCE: 13″ (33 cm) / 14″ (35.6 cm)
- FILLED GIRTH: 17″ (43.2 cm) / 21″ (53.3 cm)
- WEIGHT (EMPTY): 9.3 oz (263.7 gr) / 12.5 oz (354.4 gr)
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There’s been some buzz in recent months about whether or not freshly-reinvented Italian brand Moto Morini will bring its bikes to the US market, and now there is confirmation it’s true. Via a press release, Moto Morini conveyed its US headquarters will be in Irvine, California, and a dealer network is on the way. This should be of special interest to adventure riders since one of the arrivals is likely to be MM’s 650cc parallel twin powered X-Cape adventure bike.
Since its founding by Grand Prix racer Alfonso Morini back in 1937, Moto Morini, like many similar Italian brands, has been around the block a few times. There was early success and a postwar boom, followed by stagnation and multiple sales, including to private equity firm Texas Pacific Group, which also purchased the Ducati brand in 1996.
While Ducati eventually went on to enjoy a storybook resurgence as part of the Volkswagen family, Moto Morini’s comeback sputtered as it continued to change hands, finally ending up in the portfolio of China’s Zhongneng Vehicle Group in 2018.
ADVERTISEMENTZhongneng has so far done well by the brand, announcing a fast-paced long view that boasts 12 models, including the existing 650cc twin X-Cape adventure bike and Seiemmezzo roadster, already popular in Europe and Asia. To date design and at least partial production remains in Moto Morini’s hometown of Trivolzio, Italy, with its headquarters nearby in Milan.
Despite official news of US operations and a solicitation for potential dealers being announced the first week of January, there is currently nothing on the other end of the provided link to a US website to show exactly which models are arriving here. However, data Zhongneng sent to the US National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) as part of the application to join the agency’s database, which was analyzed by Cycle World, shows both of the company’s 650 twins, the X-Cape adventure bike and Seiemmezzo roadster, are headed this way.
Further piquing interest, that same NHTSA VIN data reveals plans for two mystery 750cc V-twin bikes to join the American offerings.
The current 650cc X-Cape is a swoopy, adventurous-looking bike featuring a 7-inch TFT display, 60 hp, rugged 50mm Marzocchi adjustable forks, 19/17-inch spoked wheel combo, Brembo brakes and switchable ABS. In the UK, the bike is priced from £6999, which looks something like $8500 today, though pricing in different countries can vary dramatically in relation to import taxes and incentives.
Remember when we were all complaining there weren’t enough mid-size entry-level adventure bikes around? Well, if this keeps up the next problem will be we have too many choices (as if).
Moto Morini X-Cape Specs
Engine type: liquid-cooled Inline Twin 4-stroke, DOHC 8-Valve Displacement: 649 cc Bore x stroke: 83mm x 60mm Compression ratio: 11.3:1 Maximum torque: 39.8 ft-lbs (54Nm) @ 7000rpm Maximum power: 60 HP @ 8250rpm Injection system: BOSCH EFI Maximum speed: 106 mph (170 Km/h) Emission level: euro 5 Dimensions (LxWXH) 2200x900x1390mm Wheelbase: 1490 mm Dry weight: 470 lbs (213 kg) Seat h: 32.3″/33.3″ (820mm/845mm) Fuel tank capacity: 4.8 gallons (18 liters) Minimum ground clearance: 7.5″ (190mm) Frame: steel Swingarm: aluminum Front brake: Double disc 298 mm, floating calipers, 2 pistons Rear brake: Single disc, 2 pistons ABS: BOSCH ABS 9.1 Mb (switchable) Wheels: Tubeless spoked rims (Tubeless alloy rims as optional) Front tire: 110/80-19M/C Rear tire: 150/70-17M/C Author: Jamie Elvidge
Jamie has been a motorcycle journalist for more than 30 years, testing the entire range of bikes for the major print magazines and specializing in adventure-travel related stories. To date she’s written and supplied photography for articles describing what it’s like to ride in all 50 states and 43 foreign countries, receiving two Lowell Thomas Society of American Travel Writer’s Awards along the way. Her most-challenging adventure yet has been riding in the 2018 GS Trophy in Mongolia as Team AusAmerica’s embedded journalist. -
There’s been some buzz in recent months about whether or not freshly-reinvented Italian brand Moto Morini will bring its bikes to the US market, and now there is confirmation it’s true. Via a press release, Moto Morini conveyed its US headquarters will be in Irvine, California, and a dealer network is on the way. This should be of special interest to adventure riders since one of the arrivals is likely to be MM’s 650cc parallel twin powered X-Cape adventure bike.
Since its founding by Grand Prix racer Alfonso Morini back in 1937, Moto Morini, like many similar Italian brands, has been around the block a few times. There was early success and a postwar boom, followed by stagnation and multiple sales, including to private equity firm Texas Pacific Group, which also purchased the Ducati brand in 1996.
While Ducati eventually went on to enjoy a storybook resurgence as part of the Volkswagen family, Moto Morini’s comeback sputtered as it continued to change hands, finally ending up in the portfolio of China’s Zhongneng Vehicle Group in 2018.
ADVERTISEMENTZhongneng has so far done well by the brand, announcing a fast-paced long view that boasts 12 models, including the existing 650cc twin X-Cape adventure bike and Seiemmezzo roadster, already popular in Europe and Asia. To date design and at least partial production remains in Moto Morini’s hometown of Trivolzio, Italy, with its headquarters nearby in Milan.
Despite official news of US operations and a solicitation for potential dealers being announced the first week of January, there is currently nothing on the other end of the provided link to a US website to show exactly which models are arriving here. However, data Zhongneng sent to the US National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) as part of the application to join the agency’s database, which was analyzed by Cycle World, shows both of the company’s 650 twins, the X-Cape adventure bike and Seiemmezzo roadster, are headed this way.
Further piquing interest, that same NHTSA VIN data reveals plans for two mystery 750cc V-twin bikes to join the American offerings.
The current 650cc X-Cape is a swoopy, adventurous-looking bike featuring a 7-inch TFT display, 60 hp, rugged 50mm Marzocchi adjustable forks, 19/17-inch spoked wheel combo, Brembo brakes and switchable ABS. In the UK, the bike is priced from £6999, which looks something like $8500 today, though pricing in different countries can vary dramatically in relation to import taxes and incentives.
Remember when we were all complaining there weren’t enough mid-size entry-level adventure bikes around? Well, if this keeps up the next problem will be we have too many choices (as if).
Moto Morini X-Cape Specs
Engine type: liquid-cooled Inline Twin 4-stroke, DOHC 8-Valve Displacement: 649 cc Bore x stroke: 83mm x 60mm Compression ratio: 11.3:1 Maximum torque: 39.8 ft-lbs (54Nm) @ 7000rpm Maximum power: 60 HP @ 8250rpm Injection system: BOSCH EFI Maximum speed: 106 mph (170 Km/h) Emission level: euro 5 Dimensions (LxWXH) 2200x900x1390mm Wheelbase: 1490 mm Dry weight: 470 lbs (213 kg) Seat h: 32.3″/33.3″ (820mm/845mm) Fuel tank capacity: 4.8 gallons (18 liters) Minimum ground clearance: 7.5″ (190mm) Frame: steel Swingarm: aluminum Front brake: Double disc 298 mm, floating calipers, 2 pistons Rear brake: Single disc, 2 pistons ABS: BOSCH ABS 9.1 Mb (switchable) Wheels: Tubeless spoked rims (Tubeless alloy rims as optional) Front tire: 110/80-19M/C Rear tire: 150/70-17M/C Author: Jamie Elvidge
Jamie has been a motorcycle journalist for more than 30 years, testing the entire range of bikes for the major print magazines and specializing in adventure-travel related stories. To date she’s written and supplied photography for articles describing what it’s like to ride in all 50 states and 43 foreign countries, receiving two Lowell Thomas Society of American Travel Writer’s Awards along the way. Her most-challenging adventure yet has been riding in the 2018 GS Trophy in Mongolia as Team AusAmerica’s embedded journalist. -
Looking at a map of Southern California, civilization starts to thin out as you move east from Lancaster, and virtually ceases to exist once that eastward journey passes Barstow. It’s an adventure rider’s paradise, with endless challenging terrain and interesting sites left over from millennia ago, as well as artifacts from this land’s recent expansion into modernity.
There are places you should go, and places you should not. Prepping bikes for an adventure ride in a Barstow Walmart parking lot seems like an appropriately innocuous thing to be doing, especially when it’s sanctioned by the management. Having an overzealous security guard attempt to kick you out of the place might feel like a less-than-ideal start to a journey, but there are much worse things that can happen in this corner of California.
I digress. This was an excellent few days of riding for an upcoming installment of Trail Tech’s new “ADV Weekend” video series. I have explored this area for many years, and am likely thinking of past scars. While our recent trip went fantastic, sketchy stories make for good reading, so as a brief example of what not to do out here, where our group turned right, on a past journey in this area I turned left…
ADVERTISEMENTIn spite of what a GPS might indicate, some roads are not roads. How these digital lines sometimes come to be included on maps is anyone’s guess. What appears a navigable route might actually be a river bed, or a single track, or in the case of one early journey through this area, barely visible remnants of a jeep trail from the 1950’s that leads directly into a treacherous valley filled with barbed wire, unexploded bombs, and signage with bold red letters reading “USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED.”
Much better options exist for adventure travelers. Falling squarely in the “prefer not to be shot” category, is virtually the entire Mojave National Preserve. Leaving Barstow and heading east, after only a few miles almost any right turn made lands rider and bike in an endless desert. Fortune favors the prepared out here, and this is a very large desert. While this massive landscape seems to shrink as experience there grows in direct correlation to miles racked up, one flat tire, mechanical failure, or other trail delay can become a stark reminder that “lighthearted” adventure out here is throwing caution to the wind.
Bizarre History
Have you ever thought about what the last word in the English language is? Moreover, have you ever considered inventing it? If not, simply make the journey from anywhere in SoCal towards Las Vegas, shortly before reaching the giant thermometer of Baker an exit sign on the 15 freeway will provide insight. The bizarrely named “Zzyzx Road” (pronounced “Zye – Zex”) leads to a compound founded in 1944 by a radio evangelist named Curtis H. Springer.
Springer wanted to coin the last word in the English language. Specifically, the last word in “health,” and health was the last thing it was related to. Having made millions broadcasting a form of hope over the airwaves, Springer capsulized that hope into five seemingly disconnected letters to represent a false hope of “healing” natural hot springs, which were actually tubs placed in an oddly random spot in the desert and fed by a hidden boiler.
The U.S. government eventually caught wind of the shenanigans, and shut down the operation in 1974. In spite of its checkered beginning, the Zzyzx facility located on Soda Dry Lake eventually came under the control of the California University system, and began a new phase of use as a desert research center. Given the location, UCLA students aren’t commuting out here on a regular basis, so most of the place still appears largely abandoned. Popping in as an adventure rider offers a glimpse of yet another truly bizarre thing in the Southern California desert.
Getting There
The Zzyzx facility was, in the grand scheme, just a stone’s throw from the beginning of this weekend’s journey. Our group camped just a mountain or two west of this spot the first night at Rasor Dunes.
Connecting the dots between these two points can be more challenging than one might think. Any place with “dunes” in the name means sand, and there is plenty of that to be had in this portion of California. Sandy roads leading southward from our campsite dive straight into the deep stuff. Even turning left just before the dunes to head towards Soda Dry Lake, riders through this area will have to navigate very sandy roads, and even some dune-like conditions along the way. Fortunately, a KTM 1290 Super Adventure R shod with Bridgestone AX41s is a good mix to tackle this terrain.
I’ve got plenty of hours on my personal 2017 KTM 1090 Adventure R as well as a test unit 2018 KTM 1290 Super Adventure S, both of which share a similar chassis with the previous-gen 1290 Super Adventure R. For 2021, KTM shortened and revised geometry of the frame, lengthened the swing arm, redistributed weight, and further refined the suspension of the 1290 SAR, which were welcome changes to have floating over this deep sea of sand fully packed for an extended adventure.
The Hills Have Eyes
If Soda Dry Lake receives significant rainfall, it becomes a muddy mess which is almost impossible to traverse on two wheels. While there was still evidence of a recent heavy rainfall, high winds a few days before our journey helped to dry the lakebed out, allowing us to reach the sandy and rocky roads to the east. Located in the center of Soda Dry Lake is a big pile of rocks known as the Traveler’s Monument.
The origins and purpose of this homespun monument are unclear. Theories range from potential navigation aspects to the idea people just like to pile rocks in random places. Regardless, another monument with a much more mythological description known as “Shaman’s Eye” juts out of the earth 23 miles away as the crow flies.
As this desert was being formed, a column of basaltic magma formed inside an active volcano. After everything cooled down, the softer rock surrounding the column eroded away, revealing a huge monolith with a uniquely positioned hole in the center. During the winter solstice this oculus lines up perfectly with the setting sun, and casts a beam of light onto the desert floor. Native American Legend holds that the Great Shaman descended through this eye and created humankind. Maybe things were hopping here back in the day but if this was once the cradle of civilization it sure has fallen from grace. The closest evidence of modern civilization around here in the present day is a defunct fuel station at Halloran Summit.
Only around 30 miles into our multi-day journey thus far, and we’ve already encountered sites of a charlatan and a shaman, with a mysterious pile of rocks (literally) thrown in for good measure. As hard-core as adventure riding can be, the travel guide sometimes reads like a Monty Python script.
Be Prepared
Departing from the tale of the trip for a moment, a comment on being prepared (as best as you can be) out here is merited. I’ve ridden many thousands of miles through deserts all over the world, and they constantly remind me who’s boss. Even here in my “backyard” the smallest of mishaps can quickly turn into a serious situation. Case in point – I was trying a new setup for carrying water this trip. Essentially a water bladder in a sheath attached to the outside of a soft pannier. It’s an excellent system for carrying plenty of extra water without all that weight on your back. The desert showed its unique form of aim on one trail, when after coming to a stop a fellow rider in our group pointed out there was a stick protruding from my soft luggage.
With bull’s eye precision, a hefty size twig poked its way directly through the small gap in the pannier attachment points, found the one hole in the water carrier sheath, and stabbed a nice wound in the base of the inner bladder. Losing water out here is never a good thing. Fortunately, we were riding during an extremely cold winter, which means less water is used during the day as compared to riding in the blistering heat of summer. Even better, the desert was magnanimous in that it decided to remind me who’s boss less than 10 miles from the Cima fuel station where more water could be obtained.
Riches From The Ground
About three miles after veering off Cima road into the desert, a four-story semi-preserved successful mistake can be found and explored in the middle of this otherwise empty section of desert. Evening Star Mine began as a copper claim in 1935, but spent the next four years changing hands and producing nothing from its ever-deepening shafts. Finally, in 1939, riches were struck but it was not the copper that was expected. The miners struck tin, and would extract over 400 tons of tin ore and concentrate over the next five years before abandoning the site.
Caution is merited whenever exploring old structures like this in the desert, but the Evening Star mine is an excellent example of a massive wooden structure that is still withstanding the test of time, including the huge ore crusher still in place at the top of the head frame.
Acts Of Congress
At the point where our track would again jump Cima road and veer back into the dirt, an understated monument can be found directly adjacent to the road. The “Mojave Cross” was first erected in 1934 as a memorial for those killed during World War I, and has since become a memorial “to the dead of all wars.” This simple monument has been steeped in controversy throughout its history. It has been the subject of multiple lawsuits over the years, at one point stolen and recovered 500 miles away from the site, and eventually reintroduced in 2012 with the help of an act of congress. In addition to being a memorial, the cross also happens to mark the location of several convenient camp sites within a small radius of its perch on the side of Cima road.
The Streets Are Paved With Cinder
The harsh nature of living and working in the Mojave Desert can be felt while exploring the old abandoned mining sites. There are structures out here which have been abandoned much more recently as well. Approaching the Aiken cinder mine at first can give the impression of an active industrial operation. Huge machines strewn about, with massive cinder piles positioned like they were recently extracted and being processed make you feel like you can almost hear the huge diesel generators powering machines which are throwing rocks around. In reality, as soon as you stop and shut off your bike, your ears are met with an eerie silence emanating from the perfectly still mechanical monsters.
Aiken mine saw its last rocks tossed around in 1990 when the operators abruptly walked away. Their departure was so sudden that all the machinery and 7.8 million tons of cinder product was left in place like the entire crew just clocked out mid-shift and never returned. To provide a sense of scale this operation has, by some estimates 70% of the cinder used to make the sidewalks and walkways of Las Vegas was extracted from Aiken mine, and that was only a fraction of the 1.4 million tons of cinder sold from this location.
A Retreat From The Desert Heat
Just over the hill descending a steep and rocky road from the massive man-made artifact of Aiken mine, is a popular natural wonder which is definitely worth a stop and the short hike to check out. Mojave’s Lava Tube Cave is a 500-foot-long tunnel formed long ago by an underground river of lava. Visitors can descend a short metal staircase and crawl through a narrow opening which reveals a large underground cavern, complete with “skylights” which produce dramatic beams of light descending to the cave floor at certain times during the day.
While I had been here previously, and experienced the welcome cool of the underground chamber during a hard ride, for this trip I had other duties. Namely fixing a front flat tire on my Super Adventure R — another reminder to respect the extremely rocky terrain of this desert even when the fun and scenic trails can beg you to push speeds.
A Different Kind Of Field
Aiken mine and the Mojave Lava Tube are interesting and unique examples of how volcanism affects this portion of the massive Mojave Desert, but these are only two examples. Taking a huge step back to gain a broader perspective of this area reveals these sites are part of the Cima Volcanic field. Covering 230 square miles, around 40 volcanic cinder cones and 60 lava flows can be found dotting and snaking through the field. Some of these features are millions of years old, while the most recent are estimated to be as young as 10,000 years old.
Adventure riders here can throw up hypothetical goal posts at either end of this field and plot numerous courses to explore through the area. If hiking to the top of volcanic cinder cones isn’t your thing, petroglyphs of indeterminate age, petrified trees, and even fossilized “lava falls” can be found.
Pre-Apocalyptic Sites
Even more recently abandoned than Aiken mine, the Goldome Mining Complex was bringing on new employees as recently as 1996, and by some estimates was still operating until 1998. In addition to the abandoned mining operation here, the 1890s ghost town of Vanderbilt lies nearby. Records of past ownership are hazy at best, in keeping with the vibe of random papers and magazines which can still be found littering the floor of the old office building.
Metal sides of buildings and huge storage tanks have been carved up and painted with unapologetically creepy scenes featuring skeletons, machine guns, and of course, clowns. One known fact about this site is that the Desert Protection Act of 1994, which created the Mojave National Preserve, led to cessation of operations here by restricting mining within the preserve. Hand-painted “keep out” signs on posts seem more intended to add to the apocalyptic vibe of the place, rather than actually doing anything to prevent would-be disaster tourism.
A History Of Violence
The inappropriately-named “Hole in the Wall” should actually be plural. This popular camping area is surrounded by pockmarked cliffs which tell the story of an incredibly explosive event around 18.5 million years ago. A gas eruption blasted a cloud of ash and rock which covered over 230 square miles at supersonic speeds, and eradicated all living things in its path. Rocks as large as 60 feet across, the largest ever documented by such an explosion, hit the mountains at Hole in the Wall like a massive geologic shotgun blast. In the ground beneath the pockmarked cliffs, fossilized remains of plants and animals can be found from this explosion, as well as rocks welded together by the heat.
From a hole in the wall to holes in the ground, around 20 miles southwest of Hole in the Wall is an extensive series of diggings and shafts comprising the Hidden Hills Mine. Much more than a single mine, the area surrounding Hidden Hills is pockmarked with tunnels, remnants of structures, and occasional “safety” barriers which have been constructed more recently. Readily accessible just off an easy-to-moderate level dirt road, and only about five miles from Kelbaker Road, the Hidden Hills Mining area is an interesting detour which highlights the bustling industry that once existed in this now desolate area.
After passing a dilapidated windmill just off the main dirt road, a well-preserved wooden hopper, old ball mill, and series of concrete foundations are the first things that greet visitors here. Both the scale of these structures and size of the tailing piles offer a hint of how much material was pulled from the ground here, and offer a hint of the level of caution that should be taken exploring the endless sketchy tunnels and shafts that snake deep into these hills.
A Sandy Road Home
It’s amazing how many things have names in the desert. The desolate areas of Southern California are so vast and so seemingly random that it’s a bit of a surprise when even casual research reveals that virtually every sand dune, rock outcropping, or flat space has a name on a map somewhere. Case in point – the Granite Mountains. What seems like just another collection of huge rocky hills when seen from Kelbaker Road is actually a small mountain range that even has its own teaching center, established by UC Santa Cruz in 1978. For our part, sandy paths through the Granite Mountains provided the perfect route to depart the pavement of Kelbaker road and descend some fun trails with amazing views of the Kelso Dunes in the distance.
These past couple days of travels were quite unsupported. The route was such that no facilities for food, water, or fuel were available, and would not be until again reaching pavement at the very end of the trail. With its 6.1 gallon fuel tank, I was on the largest bike of the group but we all had sufficient range to explore an off-road route from Kelso Dunes which none of us had ever taken.
Before setting out into roughly 30 miles of unknown desert, we paused at the Kelso Dunes. Among the tallest and most vast dune fields in the U.S., the tallest dune in this collection is almost 700 feet high. No attempts to ride through this dune field were made as vehicle traffic is prohibited. Hiking is allowed however, and for those with the energy and around an hour to spare, a three-mile hike can be taken to the highest point where extensive 360-degree views are provided of the dune field and mountain peaks of the Mojave Preserve. If the moisture content in the sand is correct, these dunes produce a unique sound when running or sliding down which has been described as “booming” or “singing”.
Great Expectations
Feeling like one part bike review and two parts exploration, this trip underscored how much what you are riding affects your experience of a place. I had ridden a few different machines through this general area, including a KTM 1090 Adventure R, and skirted portions of it on a KTM 1290 Super Adventure S. Testing out the 2022 1290 Super Adventure R revealed several welcome changes. When the going gets really rough or sandy, generally smaller and lighter is preferred but the 1290 SAR felt surprisingly agile and approachable, even when compared to my 1090R.
Much of this likely has to do with the altered/shortened geometry. Bringing the bar closer to the seat makes the 1290 feel more “dirt bike like” when compared to the more stretched out feeling of the 1090R, or even the earlier 1290 Super Adventures. Reworked suspension further enhanced the smallish vibe of this behemoth bike by giving all the weight a light and manageable feel without being too harsh – surprising as I only recall bottoming out the forks one time during the entire trip (which led to the front flat mentioned earlier). Ironically, the only thing I felt like I was missing from the older 1290 models was something considered to be a flaw — heat dissipation from the engine. Among the various improvements made to the 1290 SAR in 2021 are modified baffles to better direct engine heat away from the rider. If it had not been so freeking cold this entire trip, this would have been a good thing.
A smaller and lighter bike would have arguably been a good call for some of the more technical bits of this multi-day journey, but when the going got smooth and fast, having a comfortable seat, 160 horsepower, and 102 ft-lbs of torque to play with is more than a little addicting. In the end it goes back to the idea of improving off-road riding ability to better handle these large machines in the gnar, so you can enjoy all of their benefits for longer adventure rides.
Brand and model considerations aside, adventure bikes are arguably the most effective way to string together visits to this many quirky sites, completely self-supported and over the span of just a few days. It’s amazing how far we have come in this regard. Early exploration of these deserts required vastly more time and carried far greater risks. Today, adventure riders can pop out into this vastness with potentially their only concern being getting back to the road before night falls. In spite of all our advances, we still seem to have a tradition in the desert over the past couple hundred years of turning great expectations into abandoned sites. More stuff for future generations to visit I suppose.
If you are looking to embark on your own adventure in the Mojave Preserve, check out our Mojave Ride Guide that visits many of the sites in this story and more. Here you’ll find GPS tracks, maps and additional information to help you plan your trip.
Photos by Jon Beck, Spencer Hill, Rob Dabney & Jeff Santry
Author: Jon Beck
Jon Beck is fulfilling a dream of never figuring out what to be when he grows up. Racing mountain bikes, competitive surfing, and touring as a musician are somehow part of what led Jon to travel through over 40 countries so far as an adventure motorcycle photographer, journalist, and guide. From precision riding for cameras in Hollywood, to refilling a fountain pen for travel stories, Jon brings a rare blend of experience to the table. While he seems happiest when lost in a desert someplace, deadlines are met most of the time. -
Looking at a map of Southern California, civilization starts to thin out as you move east from Lancaster, and virtually ceases to exist once that eastward journey passes Barstow. It’s an adventure rider’s paradise, with endless challenging terrain and interesting sites left over from millennia ago, as well as artifacts from this land’s recent expansion into modernity.
There are places you should go, and places you should not. Prepping bikes for an adventure ride in a Barstow Walmart parking lot seems like an appropriately innocuous thing to be doing, especially when it’s sanctioned by the management. Having an overzealous security guard attempt to kick you out of the place might feel like a less-than-ideal start to a journey, but there are much worse things that can happen in this corner of California.
I digress. This was an excellent few days of riding for an upcoming installment of Trail Tech’s new “ADV Weekend” video series. I have explored this area for many years, and am likely thinking of past scars. While our recent trip went fantastic, sketchy stories make for good reading, so as a brief example of what not to do out here, where our group turned right, on a past journey in this area I turned left…
ADVERTISEMENTIn spite of what a GPS might indicate, some roads are not roads. How these digital lines sometimes come to be included on maps is anyone’s guess. What appears a navigable route might actually be a river bed, or a single track, or in the case of one early journey through this area, barely visible remnants of a jeep trail from the 1950’s that leads directly into a treacherous valley filled with barbed wire, unexploded bombs, and signage with bold red letters reading “USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED.”
Much better options exist for adventure travelers. Falling squarely in the “prefer not to be shot” category, is virtually the entire Mojave National Preserve. Leaving Barstow and heading east, after only a few miles almost any right turn made lands rider and bike in an endless desert. Fortune favors the prepared out here, and this is a very large desert. While this massive landscape seems to shrink as experience there grows in direct correlation to miles racked up, one flat tire, mechanical failure, or other trail delay can become a stark reminder that “lighthearted” adventure out here is throwing caution to the wind.
Bizarre History
Have you ever thought about what the last word in the English language is? Moreover, have you ever considered inventing it? If not, simply make the journey from anywhere in SoCal towards Las Vegas, shortly before reaching the giant thermometer of Baker an exit sign on the 15 freeway will provide insight. The bizarrely named “Zzyzx Road” (pronounced “Zye – Zex”) leads to a compound founded in 1944 by a radio evangelist named Curtis H. Springer.
Springer wanted to coin the last word in the English language. Specifically, the last word in “health,” and health was the last thing it was related to. Having made millions broadcasting a form of hope over the airwaves, Springer capsulized that hope into five seemingly disconnected letters to represent a false hope of “healing” natural hot springs, which were actually tubs placed in an oddly random spot in the desert and fed by a hidden boiler.
The U.S. government eventually caught wind of the shenanigans, and shut down the operation in 1974. In spite of its checkered beginning, the Zzyzx facility located on Soda Dry Lake eventually came under the control of the California University system, and began a new phase of use as a desert research center. Given the location, UCLA students aren’t commuting out here on a regular basis, so most of the place still appears largely abandoned. Popping in as an adventure rider offers a glimpse of yet another truly bizarre thing in the Southern California desert.
Getting There
The Zzyzx facility was, in the grand scheme, just a stone’s throw from the beginning of this weekend’s journey. Our group camped just a mountain or two west of this spot the first night at Rasor Dunes.
Connecting the dots between these two points can be more challenging than one might think. Any place with “dunes” in the name means sand, and there is plenty of that to be had in this portion of California. Sandy roads leading southward from our campsite dive straight into the deep stuff. Even turning left just before the dunes to head towards Soda Dry Lake, riders through this area will have to navigate very sandy roads, and even some dune-like conditions along the way. Fortunately, a KTM 1290 Super Adventure R shod with Bridgestone AX41s is a good mix to tackle this terrain.
I’ve got plenty of hours on my personal 2017 KTM 1090 Adventure R as well as a test unit 2018 KTM 1290 Super Adventure S, both of which share a similar chassis with the previous-gen 1290 Super Adventure R. For 2021, KTM shortened and revised geometry of the frame, lengthened the swing arm, redistributed weight, and further refined the suspension of the 1290 SAR, which were welcome changes to have floating over this deep sea of sand fully packed for an extended adventure.
The Hills Have Eyes
If Soda Dry Lake receives significant rainfall, it becomes a muddy mess which is almost impossible to traverse on two wheels. While there was still evidence of a recent heavy rainfall, high winds a few days before our journey helped to dry the lakebed out, allowing us to reach the sandy and rocky roads to the east. Located in the center of Soda Dry Lake is a big pile of rocks known as the Traveler’s Monument.
The origins and purpose of this homespun monument are unclear. Theories range from potential navigation aspects to the idea people just like to pile rocks in random places. Regardless, another monument with a much more mythological description known as “Shaman’s Eye” juts out of the earth 23 miles away as the crow flies.
As this desert was being formed, a column of basaltic magma formed inside an active volcano. After everything cooled down, the softer rock surrounding the column eroded away, revealing a huge monolith with a uniquely positioned hole in the center. During the winter solstice this oculus lines up perfectly with the setting sun, and casts a beam of light onto the desert floor. Native American Legend holds that the Great Shaman descended through this eye and created humankind. Maybe things were hopping here back in the day but if this was once the cradle of civilization it sure has fallen from grace. The closest evidence of modern civilization around here in the present day is a defunct fuel station at Halloran Summit.
Only around 30 miles into our multi-day journey thus far, and we’ve already encountered sites of a charlatan and a shaman, with a mysterious pile of rocks (literally) thrown in for good measure. As hard-core as adventure riding can be, the travel guide sometimes reads like a Monty Python script.
Be Prepared
Departing from the tale of the trip for a moment, a comment on being prepared (as best as you can be) out here is merited. I’ve ridden many thousands of miles through deserts all over the world, and they constantly remind me who’s boss. Even here in my “backyard” the smallest of mishaps can quickly turn into a serious situation. Case in point – I was trying a new setup for carrying water this trip. Essentially a water bladder in a sheath attached to the outside of a soft pannier. It’s an excellent system for carrying plenty of extra water without all that weight on your back. The desert showed its unique form of aim on one trail, when after coming to a stop a fellow rider in our group pointed out there was a stick protruding from my soft luggage.
With bull’s eye precision, a hefty size twig poked its way directly through the small gap in the pannier attachment points, found the one hole in the water carrier sheath, and stabbed a nice wound in the base of the inner bladder. Losing water out here is never a good thing. Fortunately, we were riding during an extremely cold winter, which means less water is used during the day as compared to riding in the blistering heat of summer. Even better, the desert was magnanimous in that it decided to remind me who’s boss less than 10 miles from the Cima fuel station where more water could be obtained.
Riches From The Ground
About three miles after veering off Cima road into the desert, a four-story semi-preserved successful mistake can be found and explored in the middle of this otherwise empty section of desert. Evening Star Mine began as a copper claim in 1935, but spent the next four years changing hands and producing nothing from its ever-deepening shafts. Finally, in 1939, riches were struck but it was not the copper that was expected. The miners struck tin, and would extract over 400 tons of tin ore and concentrate over the next five years before abandoning the site.
Caution is merited whenever exploring old structures like this in the desert, but the Evening Star mine is an excellent example of a massive wooden structure that is still withstanding the test of time, including the huge ore crusher still in place at the top of the head frame.
Acts Of Congress
At the point where our track would again jump Cima road and veer back into the dirt, an understated monument can be found directly adjacent to the road. The “Mojave Cross” was first erected in 1934 as a memorial for those killed during World War I, and has since become a memorial “to the dead of all wars.” This simple monument has been steeped in controversy throughout its history. It has been the subject of multiple lawsuits over the years, at one point stolen and recovered 500 miles away from the site, and eventually reintroduced in 2012 with the help of an act of congress. In addition to being a memorial, the cross also happens to mark the location of several convenient camp sites within a small radius of its perch on the side of Cima road.
The Streets Are Paved With Cinder
The harsh nature of living and working in the Mojave Desert can be felt while exploring the old abandoned mining sites. There are structures out here which have been abandoned much more recently as well. Approaching the Aiken cinder mine at first can give the impression of an active industrial operation. Huge machines strewn about, with massive cinder piles positioned like they were recently extracted and being processed make you feel like you can almost hear the huge diesel generators powering machines which are throwing rocks around. In reality, as soon as you stop and shut off your bike, your ears are met with an eerie silence emanating from the perfectly still mechanical monsters.
Aiken mine saw its last rocks tossed around in 1990 when the operators abruptly walked away. Their departure was so sudden that all the machinery and 7.8 million tons of cinder product was left in place like the entire crew just clocked out mid-shift and never returned. To provide a sense of scale this operation has, by some estimates 70% of the cinder used to make the sidewalks and walkways of Las Vegas was extracted from Aiken mine, and that was only a fraction of the 1.4 million tons of cinder sold from this location.
A Retreat From The Desert Heat
Just over the hill descending a steep and rocky road from the massive man-made artifact of Aiken mine, is a popular natural wonder which is definitely worth a stop and the short hike to check out. Mojave’s Lava Tube Cave is a 500-foot-long tunnel formed long ago by an underground river of lava. Visitors can descend a short metal staircase and crawl through a narrow opening which reveals a large underground cavern, complete with “skylights” which produce dramatic beams of light descending to the cave floor at certain times during the day.
While I had been here previously, and experienced the welcome cool of the underground chamber during a hard ride, for this trip I had other duties. Namely fixing a front flat tire on my Super Adventure R — another reminder to respect the extremely rocky terrain of this desert even when the fun and scenic trails can beg you to push speeds.
A Different Kind Of Field
Aiken mine and the Mojave Lava Tube are interesting and unique examples of how volcanism affects this portion of the massive Mojave Desert, but these are only two examples. Taking a huge step back to gain a broader perspective of this area reveals these sites are part of the Cima Volcanic field. Covering 230 square miles, around 40 volcanic cinder cones and 60 lava flows can be found dotting and snaking through the field. Some of these features are millions of years old, while the most recent are estimated to be as young as 10,000 years old.
Adventure riders here can throw up hypothetical goal posts at either end of this field and plot numerous courses to explore through the area. If hiking to the top of volcanic cinder cones isn’t your thing, petroglyphs of indeterminate age, petrified trees, and even fossilized “lava falls” can be found.
Pre-Apocalyptic Sites
Even more recently abandoned than Aiken mine, the Goldome Mining Complex was bringing on new employees as recently as 1996, and by some estimates was still operating until 1998. In addition to the abandoned mining operation here, the 1890s ghost town of Vanderbilt lies nearby. Records of past ownership are hazy at best, in keeping with the vibe of random papers and magazines which can still be found littering the floor of the old office building.
Metal sides of buildings and huge storage tanks have been carved up and painted with unapologetically creepy scenes featuring skeletons, machine guns, and of course, clowns. One known fact about this site is that the Desert Protection Act of 1994, which created the Mojave National Preserve, led to cessation of operations here by restricting mining within the preserve. Hand-painted “keep out” signs on posts seem more intended to add to the apocalyptic vibe of the place, rather than actually doing anything to prevent would-be disaster tourism.
A History Of Violence
The inappropriately-named “Hole in the Wall” should actually be plural. This popular camping area is surrounded by pockmarked cliffs which tell the story of an incredibly explosive event around 18.5 million years ago. A gas eruption blasted a cloud of ash and rock which covered over 230 square miles at supersonic speeds, and eradicated all living things in its path. Rocks as large as 60 feet across, the largest ever documented by such an explosion, hit the mountains at Hole in the Wall like a massive geologic shotgun blast. In the ground beneath the pockmarked cliffs, fossilized remains of plants and animals can be found from this explosion, as well as rocks welded together by the heat.
From a hole in the wall to holes in the ground, around 20 miles southwest of Hole in the Wall is an extensive series of diggings and shafts comprising the Hidden Hills Mine. Much more than a single mine, the area surrounding Hidden Hills is pockmarked with tunnels, remnants of structures, and occasional “safety” barriers which have been constructed more recently. Readily accessible just off an easy-to-moderate level dirt road, and only about five miles from Kelbaker Road, the Hidden Hills Mining area is an interesting detour which highlights the bustling industry that once existed in this now desolate area.
After passing a dilapidated windmill just off the main dirt road, a well-preserved wooden hopper, old ball mill, and series of concrete foundations are the first things that greet visitors here. Both the scale of these structures and size of the tailing piles offer a hint of how much material was pulled from the ground here, and offer a hint of the level of caution that should be taken exploring the endless sketchy tunnels and shafts that snake deep into these hills.
A Sandy Road Home
It’s amazing how many things have names in the desert. The desolate areas of Southern California are so vast and so seemingly random that it’s a bit of a surprise when even casual research reveals that virtually every sand dune, rock outcropping, or flat space has a name on a map somewhere. Case in point – the Granite Mountains. What seems like just another collection of huge rocky hills when seen from Kelbaker Road is actually a small mountain range that even has its own teaching center, established by UC Santa Cruz in 1978. For our part, sandy paths through the Granite Mountains provided the perfect route to depart the pavement of Kelbaker road and descend some fun trails with amazing views of the Kelso Dunes in the distance.
These past couple days of travels were quite unsupported. The route was such that no facilities for food, water, or fuel were available, and would not be until again reaching pavement at the very end of the trail. With its 6.1 gallon fuel tank, I was on the largest bike of the group but we all had sufficient range to explore an off-road route from Kelso Dunes which none of us had ever taken.
Before setting out into roughly 30 miles of unknown desert, we paused at the Kelso Dunes. Among the tallest and most vast dune fields in the U.S., the tallest dune in this collection is almost 700 feet high. No attempts to ride through this dune field were made as vehicle traffic is prohibited. Hiking is allowed however, and for those with the energy and around an hour to spare, a three-mile hike can be taken to the highest point where extensive 360-degree views are provided of the dune field and mountain peaks of the Mojave Preserve. If the moisture content in the sand is correct, these dunes produce a unique sound when running or sliding down which has been described as “booming” or “singing”.
Great Expectations
Feeling like one part bike review and two parts exploration, this trip underscored how much what you are riding affects your experience of a place. I had ridden a few different machines through this general area, including a KTM 1090 Adventure R, and skirted portions of it on a KTM 1290 Super Adventure S. Testing out the 2022 1290 Super Adventure R revealed several welcome changes. When the going gets really rough or sandy, generally smaller and lighter is preferred but the 1290 SAR felt surprisingly agile and approachable, even when compared to my 1090R.
Much of this likely has to do with the altered/shortened geometry. Bringing the bar closer to the seat makes the 1290 feel more “dirt bike like” when compared to the more stretched out feeling of the 1090R, or even the earlier 1290 Super Adventures. Reworked suspension further enhanced the smallish vibe of this behemoth bike by giving all the weight a light and manageable feel without being too harsh – surprising as I only recall bottoming out the forks one time during the entire trip (which led to the front flat mentioned earlier). Ironically, the only thing I felt like I was missing from the older 1290 models was something considered to be a flaw — heat dissipation from the engine. Among the various improvements made to the 1290 SAR in 2021 are modified baffles to better direct engine heat away from the rider. If it had not been so freeking cold this entire trip, this would have been a good thing.
A smaller and lighter bike would have arguably been a good call for some of the more technical bits of this multi-day journey, but when the going got smooth and fast, having a comfortable seat, 160 horsepower, and 102 ft-lbs of torque to play with is more than a little addicting. In the end it goes back to the idea of improving off-road riding ability to better handle these large machines in the gnar, so you can enjoy all of their benefits for longer adventure rides.
Brand and model considerations aside, adventure bikes are arguably the most effective way to string together visits to this many quirky sites, completely self-supported and over the span of just a few days. It’s amazing how far we have come in this regard. Early exploration of these deserts required vastly more time and carried far greater risks. Today, adventure riders can pop out into this vastness with potentially their only concern being getting back to the road before night falls. In spite of all our advances, we still seem to have a tradition in the desert over the past couple hundred years of turning great expectations into abandoned sites. More stuff for future generations to visit I suppose.
If you are looking to embark on your own adventure in the Mojave Preserve, check out our Mojave Ride Guide that visits many of the sites in this story and more. Here you’ll find GPS tracks, maps and additional information to help you plan your trip.
Photos by Jon Beck, Spencer Hill, Rob Dabney & Jeff Santry
Author: Jon Beck
Jon Beck is fulfilling a dream of never figuring out what to be when he grows up. Racing mountain bikes, competitive surfing, and touring as a musician are somehow part of what led Jon to travel through over 40 countries so far as an adventure motorcycle photographer, journalist, and guide. From precision riding for cameras in Hollywood, to refilling a fountain pen for travel stories, Jon brings a rare blend of experience to the table. While he seems happiest when lost in a desert someplace, deadlines are met most of the time. -
Looking at a map of Southern California, civilization starts to thin out as you move east from Lancaster, and virtually ceases to exist once that eastward journey passes Barstow. It’s an adventure rider’s paradise, with endless challenging terrain and interesting sites left over from millennia ago, as well as artifacts from this land’s recent expansion into modernity.
There are places you should go, and places you should not. Prepping bikes for an adventure ride in a Barstow Walmart parking lot seems like an appropriately innocuous thing to be doing, especially when it’s sanctioned by the management. Having an overzealous security guard attempt to kick you out of the place might feel like a less-than-ideal start to a journey, but there are much worse things that can happen in this corner of California.
I digress. This was an excellent few days of riding for an upcoming installment of Trail Tech’s new “ADV Weekend” video series. I have explored this area for many years, and am likely thinking of past scars. While our recent trip went fantastic, sketchy stories make for good reading, so as a brief example of what not to do out here, where our group turned right, on a past journey in this area I turned left…
ADVERTISEMENTIn spite of what a GPS might indicate, some roads are not roads. How these digital lines sometimes come to be included on maps is anyone’s guess. What appears a navigable route might actually be a river bed, or a single track, or in the case of one early journey through this area, barely visible remnants of a jeep trail from the 1950’s that leads directly into a treacherous valley filled with barbed wire, unexploded bombs, and signage with bold red letters reading “USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED.”
Much better options exist for adventure travelers. Falling squarely in the “prefer not to be shot” category, is virtually the entire Mojave National Preserve. Leaving Barstow and heading east, after only a few miles almost any right turn made lands rider and bike in an endless desert. Fortune favors the prepared out here, and this is a very large desert. While this massive landscape seems to shrink as experience there grows in direct correlation to miles racked up, one flat tire, mechanical failure, or other trail delay can become a stark reminder that “lighthearted” adventure out here is throwing caution to the wind.
Bizarre History
Have you ever thought about what the last word in the English language is? Moreover, have you ever considered inventing it? If not, simply make the journey from anywhere in SoCal towards Las Vegas, shortly before reaching the giant thermometer of Baker an exit sign on the 15 freeway will provide insight. The bizarrely named “Zzyzx Road” (pronounced “Zye – Zex”) leads to a compound founded in 1944 by a radio evangelist named Curtis H. Springer.
Springer wanted to coin the last word in the English language. Specifically, the last word in “health,” and health was the last thing it was related to. Having made millions broadcasting a form of hope over the airwaves, Springer capsulized that hope into five seemingly disconnected letters to represent a false hope of “healing” natural hot springs, which were actually tubs placed in an oddly random spot in the desert and fed by a hidden boiler.
The U.S. government eventually caught wind of the shenanigans, and shut down the operation in 1974. In spite of its checkered beginning, the Zzyzx facility located on Soda Dry Lake eventually came under the control of the California University system, and began a new phase of use as a desert research center. Given the location, UCLA students aren’t commuting out here on a regular basis, so most of the place still appears largely abandoned. Popping in as an adventure rider offers a glimpse of yet another truly bizarre thing in the Southern California desert.
Getting There
The Zzyzx facility was, in the grand scheme, just a stone’s throw from the beginning of this weekend’s journey. Our group camped just a mountain or two west of this spot the first night at Rasor Dunes.
Connecting the dots between these two points can be more challenging than one might think. Any place with “dunes” in the name means sand, and there is plenty of that to be had in this portion of California. Sandy roads leading southward from our campsite dive straight into the deep stuff. Even turning left just before the dunes to head towards Soda Dry Lake, riders through this area will have to navigate very sandy roads, and even some dune-like conditions along the way. Fortunately, a KTM 1290 Super Adventure R shod with Bridgestone AX41s is a good mix to tackle this terrain.
I’ve got plenty of hours on my personal 2017 KTM 1090 Adventure R as well as a test unit 2018 KTM 1290 Super Adventure S, both of which share a similar chassis with the previous-gen 1290 Super Adventure R. For 2021, KTM shortened and revised geometry of the frame, lengthened the swing arm, redistributed weight, and further refined the suspension of the 1290 SAR, which were welcome changes to have floating over this deep sea of sand fully packed for an extended adventure.
The Hills Have Eyes
If Soda Dry Lake receives significant rainfall, it becomes a muddy mess which is almost impossible to traverse on two wheels. While there was still evidence of a recent heavy rainfall, high winds a few days before our journey helped to dry the lakebed out, allowing us to reach the sandy and rocky roads to the east. Located in the center of Soda Dry Lake is a big pile of rocks known as the Traveler’s Monument.
The origins and purpose of this homespun monument are unclear. Theories range from potential navigation aspects to the idea people just like to pile rocks in random places. Regardless, another monument with a much more mythological description known as “Shaman’s Eye” juts out of the earth 23 miles away as the crow flies.
As this desert was being formed, a column of basaltic magma formed inside an active volcano. After everything cooled down, the softer rock surrounding the column eroded away, revealing a huge monolith with a uniquely positioned hole in the center. During the winter solstice this oculus lines up perfectly with the setting sun, and casts a beam of light onto the desert floor. Native American Legend holds that the Great Shaman descended through this eye and created humankind. Maybe things were hopping here back in the day but if this was once the cradle of civilization it sure has fallen from grace. The closest evidence of modern civilization around here in the present day is a defunct fuel station at Halloran Summit.
Only around 30 miles into our multi-day journey thus far, and we’ve already encountered sites of a charlatan and a shaman, with a mysterious pile of rocks (literally) thrown in for good measure. As hard-core as adventure riding can be, the travel guide sometimes reads like a Monty Python script.
Be Prepared
Departing from the tale of the trip for a moment, a comment on being prepared (as best as you can be) out here is merited. I’ve ridden many thousands of miles through deserts all over the world, and they constantly remind me who’s boss. Even here in my “backyard” the smallest of mishaps can quickly turn into a serious situation. Case in point – I was trying a new setup for carrying water this trip. Essentially a water bladder in a sheath attached to the outside of a soft pannier. It’s an excellent system for carrying plenty of extra water without all that weight on your back. The desert showed its unique form of aim on one trail, when after coming to a stop a fellow rider in our group pointed out there was a stick protruding from my soft luggage.
With bull’s eye precision, a hefty size twig poked its way directly through the small gap in the pannier attachment points, found the one hole in the water carrier sheath, and stabbed a nice wound in the base of the inner bladder. Losing water out here is never a good thing. Fortunately, we were riding during an extremely cold winter, which means less water is used during the day as compared to riding in the blistering heat of summer. Even better, the desert was magnanimous in that it decided to remind me who’s boss less than 10 miles from the Cima fuel station where more water could be obtained.
Riches From The Ground
About three miles after veering off Cima road into the desert, a four-story semi-preserved successful mistake can be found and explored in the middle of this otherwise empty section of desert. Evening Star Mine began as a copper claim in 1935, but spent the next four years changing hands and producing nothing from its ever-deepening shafts. Finally, in 1939, riches were struck but it was not the copper that was expected. The miners struck tin, and would extract over 400 tons of tin ore and concentrate over the next five years before abandoning the site.
Caution is merited whenever exploring old structures like this in the desert, but the Evening Star mine is an excellent example of a massive wooden structure that is still withstanding the test of time, including the huge ore crusher still in place at the top of the head frame.
Acts Of Congress
At the point where our track would again jump Cima road and veer back into the dirt, an understated monument can be found directly adjacent to the road. The “Mojave Cross” was first erected in 1934 as a memorial for those killed during World War I, and has since become a memorial “to the dead of all wars.” This simple monument has been steeped in controversy throughout its history. It has been the subject of multiple lawsuits over the years, at one point stolen and recovered 500 miles away from the site, and eventually reintroduced in 2012 with the help of an act of congress. In addition to being a memorial, the cross also happens to mark the location of several convenient camp sites within a small radius of its perch on the side of Cima road.
The Streets Are Paved With Cinder
The harsh nature of living and working in the Mojave Desert can be felt while exploring the old abandoned mining sites. There are structures out here which have been abandoned much more recently as well. Approaching the Aiken cinder mine at first can give the impression of an active industrial operation. Huge machines strewn about, with massive cinder piles positioned like they were recently extracted and being processed make you feel like you can almost hear the huge diesel generators powering machines which are throwing rocks around. In reality, as soon as you stop and shut off your bike, your ears are met with an eerie silence emanating from the perfectly still mechanical monsters.
Aiken mine saw its last rocks tossed around in 1990 when the operators abruptly walked away. Their departure was so sudden that all the machinery and 7.8 million tons of cinder product was left in place like the entire crew just clocked out mid-shift and never returned. To provide a sense of scale this operation has, by some estimates 70% of the cinder used to make the sidewalks and walkways of Las Vegas was extracted from Aiken mine, and that was only a fraction of the 1.4 million tons of cinder sold from this location.
A Retreat From The Desert Heat
Just over the hill descending a steep and rocky road from the massive man-made artifact of Aiken mine, is a popular natural wonder which is definitely worth a stop and the short hike to check out. Mojave’s Lava Tube Cave is a 500-foot-long tunnel formed long ago by an underground river of lava. Visitors can descend a short metal staircase and crawl through a narrow opening which reveals a large underground cavern, complete with “skylights” which produce dramatic beams of light descending to the cave floor at certain times during the day.
While I had been here previously, and experienced the welcome cool of the underground chamber during a hard ride, for this trip I had other duties. Namely fixing a front flat tire on my Super Adventure R — another reminder to respect the extremely rocky terrain of this desert even when the fun and scenic trails can beg you to push speeds.
A Different Kind Of Field
Aiken mine and the Mojave Lava Tube are interesting and unique examples of how volcanism affects this portion of the massive Mojave Desert, but these are only two examples. Taking a huge step back to gain a broader perspective of this area reveals these sites are part of the Cima Volcanic field. Covering 230 square miles, around 40 volcanic cinder cones and 60 lava flows can be found dotting and snaking through the field. Some of these features are millions of years old, while the most recent are estimated to be as young as 10,000 years old.
Adventure riders here can throw up hypothetical goal posts at either end of this field and plot numerous courses to explore through the area. If hiking to the top of volcanic cinder cones isn’t your thing, petroglyphs of indeterminate age, petrified trees, and even fossilized “lava falls” can be found.
Pre-Apocalyptic Sites
Even more recently abandoned than Aiken mine, the Goldome Mining Complex was bringing on new employees as recently as 1996, and by some estimates was still operating until 1998. In addition to the abandoned mining operation here, the 1890s ghost town of Vanderbilt lies nearby. Records of past ownership are hazy at best, in keeping with the vibe of random papers and magazines which can still be found littering the floor of the old office building.
Metal sides of buildings and huge storage tanks have been carved up and painted with unapologetically creepy scenes featuring skeletons, machine guns, and of course, clowns. One known fact about this site is that the Desert Protection Act of 1994, which created the Mojave National Preserve, led to cessation of operations here by restricting mining within the preserve. Hand-painted “keep out” signs on posts seem more intended to add to the apocalyptic vibe of the place, rather than actually doing anything to prevent would-be disaster tourism.
A History Of Violence
The inappropriately-named “Hole in the Wall” should actually be plural. This popular camping area is surrounded by pockmarked cliffs which tell the story of an incredibly explosive event around 18.5 million years ago. A gas eruption blasted a cloud of ash and rock which covered over 230 square miles at supersonic speeds, and eradicated all living things in its path. Rocks as large as 60 feet across, the largest ever documented by such an explosion, hit the mountains at Hole in the Wall like a massive geologic shotgun blast. In the ground beneath the pockmarked cliffs, fossilized remains of plants and animals can be found from this explosion, as well as rocks welded together by the heat.
From a hole in the wall to holes in the ground, around 20 miles southwest of Hole in the Wall is an extensive series of diggings and shafts comprising the Hidden Hills Mine. Much more than a single mine, the area surrounding Hidden Hills is pockmarked with tunnels, remnants of structures, and occasional “safety” barriers which have been constructed more recently. Readily accessible just off an easy-to-moderate level dirt road, and only about five miles from Kelbaker Road, the Hidden Hills Mining area is an interesting detour which highlights the bustling industry that once existed in this now desolate area.
After passing a dilapidated windmill just off the main dirt road, a well-preserved wooden hopper, old ball mill, and series of concrete foundations are the first things that greet visitors here. Both the scale of these structures and size of the tailing piles offer a hint of how much material was pulled from the ground here, and offer a hint of the level of caution that should be taken exploring the endless sketchy tunnels and shafts that snake deep into these hills.
A Sandy Road Home
It’s amazing how many things have names in the desert. The desolate areas of Southern California are so vast and so seemingly random that it’s a bit of a surprise when even casual research reveals that virtually every sand dune, rock outcropping, or flat space has a name on a map somewhere. Case in point – the Granite Mountains. What seems like just another collection of huge rocky hills when seen from Kelbaker Road is actually a small mountain range that even has its own teaching center, established by UC Santa Cruz in 1978. For our part, sandy paths through the Granite Mountains provided the perfect route to depart the pavement of Kelbaker road and descend some fun trails with amazing views of the Kelso Dunes in the distance.
These past couple days of travels were quite unsupported. The route was such that no facilities for food, water, or fuel were available, and would not be until again reaching pavement at the very end of the trail. With its 6.1 gallon fuel tank, I was on the largest bike of the group but we all had sufficient range to explore an off-road route from Kelso Dunes which none of us had ever taken.
Before setting out into roughly 30 miles of unknown desert, we paused at the Kelso Dunes. Among the tallest and most vast dune fields in the U.S., the tallest dune in this collection is almost 700 feet high. No attempts to ride through this dune field were made as vehicle traffic is prohibited. Hiking is allowed however, and for those with the energy and around an hour to spare, a three-mile hike can be taken to the highest point where extensive 360-degree views are provided of the dune field and mountain peaks of the Mojave Preserve. If the moisture content in the sand is correct, these dunes produce a unique sound when running or sliding down which has been described as “booming” or “singing”.
Great Expectations
Feeling like one part bike review and two parts exploration, this trip underscored how much what you are riding affects your experience of a place. I had ridden a few different machines through this general area, including a KTM 1090 Adventure R, and skirted portions of it on a KTM 1290 Super Adventure S. Testing out the 2022 1290 Super Adventure R revealed several welcome changes. When the going gets really rough or sandy, generally smaller and lighter is preferred but the 1290 SAR felt surprisingly agile and approachable, even when compared to my 1090R.
Much of this likely has to do with the altered/shortened geometry. Bringing the bar closer to the seat makes the 1290 feel more “dirt bike like” when compared to the more stretched out feeling of the 1090R, or even the earlier 1290 Super Adventures. Reworked suspension further enhanced the smallish vibe of this behemoth bike by giving all the weight a light and manageable feel without being too harsh – surprising as I only recall bottoming out the forks one time during the entire trip (which led to the front flat mentioned earlier). Ironically, the only thing I felt like I was missing from the older 1290 models was something considered to be a flaw — heat dissipation from the engine. Among the various improvements made to the 1290 SAR in 2021 are modified baffles to better direct engine heat away from the rider. If it had not been so freeking cold this entire trip, this would have been a good thing.
A smaller and lighter bike would have arguably been a good call for some of the more technical bits of this multi-day journey, but when the going got smooth and fast, having a comfortable seat, 160 horsepower, and 102 ft-lbs of torque to play with is more than a little addicting. In the end it goes back to the idea of improving off-road riding ability to better handle these large machines in the gnar, so you can enjoy all of their benefits for longer adventure rides.
Brand and model considerations aside, adventure bikes are arguably the most effective way to string together visits to this many quirky sites, completely self-supported and over the span of just a few days. It’s amazing how far we have come in this regard. Early exploration of these deserts required vastly more time and carried far greater risks. Today, adventure riders can pop out into this vastness with potentially their only concern being getting back to the road before night falls. In spite of all our advances, we still seem to have a tradition in the desert over the past couple hundred years of turning great expectations into abandoned sites. More stuff for future generations to visit I suppose.
If you are looking to embark on your own adventure in the Mojave Preserve, check out our Mojave Ride Guide that visits many of the sites in this story and more. Here you’ll find GPS tracks, maps and additional information to help you plan your trip.
Photos by Jon Beck, Spencer Hill, Rob Dabney & Jeff Santry
Author: Jon Beck
Jon Beck is fulfilling a dream of never figuring out what to be when he grows up. Racing mountain bikes, competitive surfing, and touring as a musician are somehow part of what led Jon to travel through over 40 countries so far as an adventure motorcycle photographer, journalist, and guide. From precision riding for cameras in Hollywood, to refilling a fountain pen for travel stories, Jon brings a rare blend of experience to the table. While he seems happiest when lost in a desert someplace, deadlines are met most of the time. -
Like many riders, we often run a handlebar mounted smartphone for GPS navigation on our adventures. Why? They’re less bulky than a dedicated GPS, we all own a smartphone already, and navigation apps like Gaia allow you to load preset GPX tracks and offline maps for free. In addition, it’s convenient for turn-by-turn directions, listening to music, or taking important calls on the road when used with a bluetooth headset.
You can choose from a range of different bar mount options, including a RAM Ball. Standard handlebar mounts are built with tough glass-filled nylon while the PRO version utilizes CNC machine aluminum for even greater durability.
The question we always get though is ‘what phone mount do you use?’. For many riders, the thought of attaching a $1,000+ smartphone to the handlebars and trusting it will stay there is a bridge too far, especially when traveling off-road. We’ve been there and we’ve also seen our smartphones get launched in the air when riding through rough terrain using some of the early phone mount systems. But for some time now we’ve been using the Quad Lock phone mount with great success. It uses a patented dual-stage lock mechanism that attaches to the back of your phone securely with either a phone specific case or Quad Lock’s Universal Adaptor with 3M adhesive backing attached to your existing case. Detaching or attaching your phone to the Quad Lock mount is done so with a simple, one-handed push and twist motion, and the snap-in mechanism can’t be unlocked without intention.
Standard handlebar mounts are built with tough glass-filled nylon while the PRO mounts utilize CNC machine aluminum for even greater durability, and the snap-in mechanism can’t be unlocked without intention.
ADVERTISEMENTWhen testing any new phone mount there’s always some apprehension before you build confidence with the device, and our initial feelings using the Quad Lock were no different. We started with basic street rides, then moved on to some pretty gnarly off-road trails. Since we started using the Quad Lock, it’s been mounted on the bars of several of our motorcycles in a variety of terrain — even big whoops and rocky trails — incident free. It’s now at the point where we don’t even think about it anymore.
The Quad Lock vibration dampener features a dual chassis suspension system with precision engineered silicone grommets that absorb vibrations and protect your smartphone’s camera from high level frequencies.
Yet, wondering if your phone will stay attached isn’t the only fear. Many new smartphone cameras have intricate image stabilization components that can be damaged by engine vibration (don’t ask how we know). While the Quad Lock does seem to have some built-in vibration damping in the materials used, there is an optional ($19.99) vibration dampener that can add even more protection. We decided to get one just in case and it’s easy to install on your existing Quad Lock with just a simple allen key wrench. The phone definitely has more jiggle than before but it’s still easy to read the screen and the small investment is well worth the peace of mind.
And what about the elements? Leaving your phone mounted out in the open in a storm can leave you without GPS navigation in the middle of nowhere. Quad Lock has a solution for that though with its Poncho plastic phone cover. It fits snugly over the top of your phone, creating a water-tight seal from rain and splashes. It’s made of tough TPU, so you can keep it on there for even more impact protection.
All things considered, the Quad Lock is one of the best phone mount systems we’ve tested to date. Giving us even more confidence with the Quad Lock are endorsements from nother-level riders like Chris Birch, Pol Tarres, Ricky Carmichael and more. While it’s not a cheap phone mount by any measure, you can custom configure a mounting solution anywhere from $50 to $120 depending on the options and phone model. For more information on the Quad Lock phone mount system you can check out their website.
Author: Rob Dabney
Rob Dabney started a lifelong obsession with motorcycles at the age of 15 when he purchased his first bike – a 1982 Honda MB5. Through his 20’s and 30’s he competed in off-road desert races, including the Baja 250, 500 and 1000. Eventually, his proclivity for exploration led him to dual sport and adventure riding. Rob’s never-ending quest to discover what’s around the next bend has taken him on Adventures in Mexico, North Africa, Europe, and throughout the American West. As a moto journalist, he enjoys inspiring others to seek adventure across horizons both near and far. -
Published on 12.21.2022
KTM has unleashed the new 1290 Adventure R for 2023 to join the more street-oriented ‘S’ variant in the manufacturer’s flagship ADV range. Unlike the extensive changes seen in the reworked 2021 model, the freshly announced updates are minor yet they will still be appreciated by fans of the tech-packed flagship adventurer.
For 2023, the new scratch-resistant and more user-friendly 7” TFT gives access to updated navigation features. Specifically, an enhanced Turn-by-Turn+ guidance and the ability to set waypoints and diversions are now all possible through the handlebar switch dial and through the TFT. No need to prop the bike and fish around for the phone that engages the KTMConnect APP; everything – including phone call answering and logging top ten ‘favorites’ – can all be done with a dab of a finger. The 1290 also features an advanced BOSCH 6D lean angle sensor that informs much of the bike’s behavior and myriad of settings through Motorcycle Traction Control, Motorcycle Stability Control, various RIDE MODES, ABS, and more.
Another addition for the new model year is the Bridgestone AX41 tires, which will now come stock. Contributing to the bike’s off-road readiness is the 48 mm WP XPLOR suspension, featuring split cartridge forks and the modifiable rear shock with 8.7 inches (220 mm) of travel. Plus, the suspension funnels the maximum level of feedback through the ALPINA aluminum 21”/18” spoked wheels; with an improved sealing system appropriate for tubeless tires.
ADVERTISEMENTThe flagship adventurer relies on the new Euro 5-ready LC8 engine that was slimmed by 1.6 kg for the last iteration and pumps out 160 horsepower and 101.8 ft-lbs of torque. Moreover, the powerplant is fueled by a 23-liter three-piece tank and features an improvement in dispersing heat out and away from the rider. According to KTM, recommended maintenance entails 15,000 km service intervals.
2023 KTM 1290 SUPER ADVENTURE R Highlights
- New sporting white color and graphic scheme
- New Turn-by-Turn+ guidance and more travel navigation options
- LC8 V-twin engine with 160 hp and 101.8 ft-lbs of torque
- Light ChroMo stainless steel chassis weighing just 10 kg, designed for cornering stability and more feeling under acceleration but based on long-travel Enduro sensibilities
- WP XPLOR suspension
- Adjustable and customizable ABS settings and RIDE MODES
- RACE ON remote key system, illuminated switches, 7” TFT dashboard, adjustable windshield, LED lights and simplistic but advanced dashboard interactivity
- Robust spoked 21”/18” aluminum wheels booted with Bridgestone AX41 tires stock
The whole package is completed with a new white colorway and graphic scheme that KTM says is a nod to their Dakar and Enduro race-bred lineage. A wide selection of Powerparts is also available for the bike which includes crash bars, luggage options, 11 different seats and more.
The 2023 1290 Super Adventure R is expected to hit dealers this December with an MSRP starting at $20,299. For more information visit ktm.com.
KTM 1290 Super Adventure R Specs
ENGINE TYPE: 2-cylinder, 4-stroke, V 75° LC8 DISPLACEMENT: 1301 cc POWER: 160 hp (118 kW) @ 9,000 rpm TORQUE: 101.8 ft-lbs (138 Nm) @ 6,500 rpm TRANSMISSION: 6-speed COOLING: Liquid cooled STARTER: Electric starter BORE X STROKE: 108 X 71 mm CLUTCH: PASC (TM) slipper clutch, hydraulically actuated CO2 EMISSIONS: 134 g/km EMS: Keihin EMS with RBW and cruise control, double ignition FUEL CONSUMPTION: 5.7 l/100 km (41.3 mpg) LUBRICATION: Forced oil lubrication with 3 oil pumps TANK CAPACITY (APPROX.): 23 l (6.1 US Gallons) ABS: Bosch 10.3ME Combined-ABS (incl. Cornering-ABS and offroad mode) FRONT BRAKE DISC DIAMETER: 320 mm REAR BRAKE DISC DIAMETER: 267 mm CHAIN: 525 X-Ring DRY WEIGHT: 221 kg (487.2 lbs) FRAME DESIGN: Chrome-moly tubular space frame, powder-coated GROUND CLEARANCE: 242 mm (9.5 in.) SEAT HEIGHT: 880 mm (34.6 in.) STEERING HEAD ANGLE: 25.3° SUSPENSION TRAVEL (FRONT): 220 mm (8.7 in.) SUSPENSION TRAVEL (REAR): 220 mm (8.7 in.) Photos by Philip Platzer
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Published on 12.21.2022
KTM has unleashed the new 1290 Adventure R for 2023 to join the more street-oriented ‘S’ variant in the manufacturer’s flagship ADV range. Unlike the extensive changes seen in the reworked 2021 model, the freshly announced updates are minor yet they will still be appreciated by fans of the tech-packed flagship adventurer.
For 2023, the new scratch-resistant and more user-friendly 7” TFT gives access to updated navigation features. Specifically, an enhanced Turn-by-Turn+ guidance and the ability to set waypoints and diversions are now all possible through the handlebar switch dial and through the TFT. No need to prop the bike and fish around for the phone that engages the KTMConnect APP; everything – including phone call answering and logging top ten ‘favorites’ – can all be done with a dab of a finger. The 1290 also features an advanced BOSCH 6D lean angle sensor that informs much of the bike’s behavior and myriad of settings through Motorcycle Traction Control, Motorcycle Stability Control, various RIDE MODES, ABS, and more.
Another addition for the new model year is the Bridgestone AX41 tires, which will now come stock. Contributing to the bike’s off-road readiness is the 48 mm WP XPLOR suspension, featuring split cartridge forks and the modifiable rear shock with 8.7 inches (220 mm) of travel. Plus, the suspension funnels the maximum level of feedback through the ALPINA aluminum 21”/18” spoked wheels; with an improved sealing system appropriate for tubeless tires.
ADVERTISEMENTThe flagship adventurer relies on the new Euro 5-ready LC8 engine that was slimmed by 1.6 kg for the last iteration and pumps out 160 horsepower and 101.8 ft-lbs of torque. Moreover, the powerplant is fueled by a 23-liter three-piece tank and features an improvement in dispersing heat out and away from the rider. According to KTM, recommended maintenance entails 15,000 km service intervals.
2023 KTM 1290 SUPER ADVENTURE R Highlights
- New sporting white color and graphic scheme
- New Turn-by-Turn+ guidance and more travel navigation options
- LC8 V-twin engine with 160 hp and 101.8 ft-lbs of torque
- Light ChroMo stainless steel chassis weighing just 10 kg, designed for cornering stability and more feeling under acceleration but based on long-travel Enduro sensibilities
- WP XPLOR suspension
- Adjustable and customizable ABS settings and RIDE MODES
- RACE ON remote key system, illuminated switches, 7” TFT dashboard, adjustable windshield, LED lights and simplistic but advanced dashboard interactivity
- Robust spoked 21”/18” aluminum wheels booted with Bridgestone AX41 tires stock
The whole package is completed with a new white colorway and graphic scheme that KTM says is a nod to their Dakar and Enduro race-bred lineage. A wide selection of Powerparts is also available for the bike which includes crash bars, luggage options, 11 different seats and more.
The 2023 1290 Super Adventure R is expected to hit dealers this December with an MSRP starting at $20,299. For more information visit ktm.com.
KTM 1290 Super Adventure R Specs
ENGINE TYPE: 2-cylinder, 4-stroke, V 75° LC8 DISPLACEMENT: 1301 cc POWER: 160 hp (118 kW) @ 9,000 rpm TORQUE: 101.8 ft-lbs (138 Nm) @ 6,500 rpm TRANSMISSION: 6-speed COOLING: Liquid cooled STARTER: Electric starter BORE X STROKE: 108 X 71 mm CLUTCH: PASC (TM) slipper clutch, hydraulically actuated CO2 EMISSIONS: 134 g/km EMS: Keihin EMS with RBW and cruise control, double ignition FUEL CONSUMPTION: 5.7 l/100 km (41.3 mpg) LUBRICATION: Forced oil lubrication with 3 oil pumps TANK CAPACITY (APPROX.): 23 l (6.1 US Gallons) ABS: Bosch 10.3ME Combined-ABS (incl. Cornering-ABS and offroad mode) FRONT BRAKE DISC DIAMETER: 320 mm REAR BRAKE DISC DIAMETER: 267 mm CHAIN: 525 X-Ring DRY WEIGHT: 221 kg (487.2 lbs) FRAME DESIGN: Chrome-moly tubular space frame, powder-coated GROUND CLEARANCE: 242 mm (9.5 in.) SEAT HEIGHT: 880 mm (34.6 in.) STEERING HEAD ANGLE: 25.3° SUSPENSION TRAVEL (FRONT): 220 mm (8.7 in.) SUSPENSION TRAVEL (REAR): 220 mm (8.7 in.) Photos by Philip Platzer
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For Indian builder Arjun Raina, founder of MotoExotica, a custom house nestled in the Himalayan foothills, motorcycles are more than insensate machines. His latest build for example, dubbed the Ultimate Himalayan, was inspired not by a particular look or performance goal, but rather, how it might serve as a perfect companion for Raina’s regular adventures in the mountains where he was born and raised.
“I would consider myself a mountain goat,” he says. “So this motorcycle is a reflection of me.” He adds that the intention was never about building a bike that would conquer the Himalayas, but instead, bringing to life a sidekick that would enhance his riding experience. He wanted to exemplify how a motorcycle and its rider can connect so completely they become “a single entity.”
And while you’re creating an object that’s a reflection of yourself, no shame making it look as sexy as possible, too, although the undeniable visual appeal of this custom was a goal secondary to improving the bike’s performance. Arjun says he and his team were clear on a few things. They were looking for improved power, aggressive suspension and stronger brakes, as well as weight reduction and ergonomics suited for aggressive off-road riding.
ADVERTISEMENTAll the work was done in-house at the MotoExotica facility in Dehradun, which according to Royal Enfield’s Custom World (a program that supports and showcases the vision of hand-picked builders), is a full-fledged prototyping center using ultra modern techniques in its design and production processes.
To enhance the RE’s power output, the Ultimate Himalayan’s stock 411cc single was bored to 500cc and fitted with a high lift camshaft. A standalone, programmable ECU allows for adaptable power management, while a completely custom copper-hued exhaust system does double duty as a visual highlight.
The bike’s stock suspension was swapped with a re-valved long travel upside-down fork and custom swingarm with a direct mount, fully adjustable rear mono shock. For better control, the front brake was upgraded from a 300mm disc with 2-pot calipers to a 320mm with 4 pistons. As for wheels, the stock 17” spoked rear was swapped for an 18 incher, and paired up with a 21” front. Both are shod in rally-spec knobbies.
When it came to shedding weight, Raina and his crew landed on the idea of molding an entirely new fairing and body panels using carbon fiber. As you can imagine, this was the most challenging aspect of the build, requiring not only artistic sense and skill, but high-tech CAD and CNC equipment and the experience to use it.
In an added challenge relating to the use of carbon fiber, the team decided to apply a topographical map of Mount Everest, “because that symbolized the ultimate Himalaya, so that goes with the Ultimate Himalayan theme.” The wrench was that traditional vinyl graphics won’t adhere to carbon fiber so the design had to be meticulously hand painted onto the fairing and carbon-shrouded aluminum fuel tank.
As for the overall aesthetic, Raina says while he envisioned an evolved machine, he also wanted people to look at the bike and know right away it was a Himalayan. Therefore, great attention was paid to preserving the bike’s quirky silhouette, for example, by retaining the distinct round headlamp shape. Yet within that shape live two diagonal rows of marble-like LED lights to give the bike an edgy vibe. Behind the small windscreen all the RE instrumentation was removed and symbolically replaced in its entirety by a Garmin GPS.
The Ultimate Himalayan’s custom aluminum fuel tank also echoes the standard bike’s silhouette, even though in reality it’s quite different and larger. A simple, earth tone seat lends a muted quality to the machine, which is exactly what Raina was after. “You can feel every bit and piece of the mountains,” he says of the color tones and overall look. “It’s meant to blend in and be subtle, yet be strong in its own element.”
As for the large G.O.A.T. graphic, it surely holds a double meaning. Most will assume that as the “Ultimate Himalayan” it’s not a stretch to nickname the bike the Greatest of All Time. Or we can remember that its creator and owner, Arjun Raina, is a self-proclaimed mountain goat and this bike, his carbon fiber and steel alter ego.
Either way, this custom looks like it wants to take on some mountain trails, and do it with style.
Photos courtesy of Moto Exotica
Author: Jamie Elvidge
Jamie has been a motorcycle journalist for more than 30 years, testing the entire range of bikes for the major print magazines and specializing in adventure-travel related stories. To date she’s written and supplied photography for articles describing what it’s like to ride in all 50 states and 43 foreign countries, receiving two Lowell Thomas Society of American Travel Writer’s Awards along the way. Her most-challenging adventure yet has been riding in the 2018 GS Trophy in Mongolia as Team AusAmerica’s embedded journalist. -
For Indian builder Arjun Raina, founder of MotoExotica, a custom house nestled in the Himalayan foothills, motorcycles are more than insensate machines. His latest build for example, dubbed the Ultimate Himalayan, was inspired not by a particular look or performance goal, but rather, how it might serve as a perfect companion for Raina’s regular adventures in the mountains where he was born and raised.
“I would consider myself a mountain goat,” he says. “So this motorcycle is a reflection of me.” He adds that the intention was never about building a bike that would conquer the Himalayas, but instead, bringing to life a sidekick that would enhance his riding experience. He wanted to exemplify how a motorcycle and its rider can connect so completely they become “a single entity.”
And while you’re creating an object that’s a reflection of yourself, no shame making it look as sexy as possible, too, although the undeniable visual appeal of this custom was a goal secondary to improving the bike’s performance. Arjun says he and his team were clear on a few things. They were looking for improved power, aggressive suspension and stronger brakes, as well as weight reduction and ergonomics suited for aggressive off-road riding.
ADVERTISEMENTAll the work was done in-house at the MotoExotica facility in Dehradun, which according to Royal Enfield’s Custom World (a program that supports and showcases the vision of hand-picked builders), is a full-fledged prototyping center using ultra modern techniques in its design and production processes.
To enhance the RE’s power output, the Ultimate Himalayan’s stock 411cc single was bored to 500cc and fitted with a high lift camshaft. A standalone, programmable ECU allows for adaptable power management, while a completely custom copper-hued exhaust system does double duty as a visual highlight.
The bike’s stock suspension was swapped with a re-valved long travel upside-down fork and custom swingarm with a direct mount, fully adjustable rear mono shock. For better control, the front brake was upgraded from a 300mm disc with 2-pot calipers to a 320mm with 4 pistons. As for wheels, the stock 17” spoked rear was swapped for an 18 incher, and paired up with a 21” front. Both are shod in rally-spec knobbies.
When it came to shedding weight, Raina and his crew landed on the idea of molding an entirely new fairing and body panels using carbon fiber. As you can imagine, this was the most challenging aspect of the build, requiring not only artistic sense and skill, but high-tech CAD and CNC equipment and the experience to use it.
In an added challenge relating to the use of carbon fiber, the team decided to apply a topographical map of Mount Everest, “because that symbolized the ultimate Himalaya, so that goes with the Ultimate Himalayan theme.” The wrench was that traditional vinyl graphics won’t adhere to carbon fiber so the design had to be meticulously hand painted onto the fairing and carbon-shrouded aluminum fuel tank.
As for the overall aesthetic, Raina says while he envisioned an evolved machine, he also wanted people to look at the bike and know right away it was a Himalayan. Therefore, great attention was paid to preserving the bike’s quirky silhouette, for example, by retaining the distinct round headlamp shape. Yet within that shape live two diagonal rows of marble-like LED lights to give the bike an edgy vibe. Behind the small windscreen all the RE instrumentation was removed and symbolically replaced in its entirety by a Garmin GPS.
The Ultimate Himalayan’s custom aluminum fuel tank also echoes the standard bike’s silhouette, even though in reality it’s quite different and larger. A simple, earth tone seat lends a muted quality to the machine, which is exactly what Raina was after. “You can feel every bit and piece of the mountains,” he says of the color tones and overall look. “It’s meant to blend in and be subtle, yet be strong in its own element.”
As for the large G.O.A.T. graphic, it surely holds a double meaning. Most will assume that as the “Ultimate Himalayan” it’s not a stretch to nickname the bike the Greatest of All Time. Or we can remember that its creator and owner, Arjun Raina, is a self-proclaimed mountain goat and this bike, his carbon fiber and steel alter ego.
Either way, this custom looks like it wants to take on some mountain trails, and do it with style.
Photos courtesy of Moto Exotica
Author: Jamie Elvidge
Jamie has been a motorcycle journalist for more than 30 years, testing the entire range of bikes for the major print magazines and specializing in adventure-travel related stories. To date she’s written and supplied photography for articles describing what it’s like to ride in all 50 states and 43 foreign countries, receiving two Lowell Thomas Society of American Travel Writer’s Awards along the way. Her most-challenging adventure yet has been riding in the 2018 GS Trophy in Mongolia as Team AusAmerica’s embedded journalist. -
No doubt it’s fun to see all the new bikes being unveiled at the annual EICMA show in Milan each year, even if that thrill is so often tempered by lack of availability in the US. But this is one revealed at the show that will be headed our way, and soon — the Dakar spec’d 450 Rally Pro and standard option 450 Rally from emerging manufacturer Kove Moto.
So what is Kove Moto? It’s a Chinese brand founded in 2017 and run by CEO, Zhang Xue, a former semi-pro MX rider who is obsessed with rally raids and wants to bring the Chinese flag onto the world stage. In fact, Kove Moto already has three of its Rally Pro factory bikes and Chinese pilots entered in the grueling Dakar Rally and will compete in the upcoming edition.
For those who haven’t already left for the comments section to complain about the infiltration of Chinese brands, one of the noteworthy things about this rally bike is that the standard version, currently in the process of being approved for full street legal certification, will be affordably priced at $8,999. Its Dakar-spec’d Pro counterpart, according to the brand’s US distributor, USA Motortoys, will sell for $14,500.
ADVERTISEMENTKove Moto has been busy in its short life, developing and producing a range of street bikes, as well as a 500cc adventure bike, all to date sold in Asia under the name Colove. According to a statement on Kove Moto’s website, company sales growth for 2021 was 40%, with sales exceeding 20,000 units.
Behind the scenes at the fast-growing Chongqing-based company, CEO Xue’s passion project 450 Rally has been in the works for four years. When interviewed at EICMA, Xue made his intention clear. He not only wants to create a machine that will be competitive in Dakar and other famously tough rally raid events, he wants to make such a bike available to every rider. And as a motocross rider himself, he’s been notably hands-on during the development process and also in prototype testing.
The Rally Pro certainly looks the part, and in a recent promotional video it seems to go fine too. Power is supplied by a specially prepared Zongshen 449cc liquid-cooled single claimed to pump out 54 hp and 31 ft-lbs of torque. The standard version will offer slightly less pop: 52 ponies and 29 ft lbs of torque. It also offers a 38-inch seat h option (same as the Pro) as well as a lower 36-inch seat h option. The Pro model will come with all the Dakar-friendly goodies like a Scotts steering stabilizer and carbon navigation tower to accommodate roadbooks, while the R will come with a more standard digital display. Dry weight for both versions is listed at 320 lbs.
The bikes are equipped with three fuel tanks for a combined eight-gallon capacity offering a claimed 300 mile range and are listed as featuring 12 inches of travel front and rear, while the “Low Seat” R offers 10 inches. Wheels are the expected 21/18 combo, brakes are listed as Nissin single disc for front and rear and the recommended service interval will be 5,000+ miles.
Kove 450 Rally Pro at EICMA.
Standard 450 Rally model.
According to USA Motortoys, the first demo bikes are on track to be air shipped this month, with the bulk of the first shipment arriving to the States around May, 2023. All those first arrivals, 70 Rally models in total, will be designated “Competition Use Only.” With a unit currently being tested for street-use approval at US government labs, USA Motortoys says if all goes well it expects full street legal versions to be landing at its 71 GPXMoto dealers by Fall.
And yes it’s true the KTM and other top brand’s Rally replicas are Dakar proven and sold in extremely limited numbers, but still, the idea of owning an “uncorked” Rally bike for less than $15k will be appealing to many. Especially if it’s a bike that can be competitive and survive the toughest rally on Earth.
We won’t have to wait long to find out. But make sure to mark your calendar since the flag drop in Saudi Arabia this year will come a little early (December 31st).
Kove 450 Rally Specs
450R Rally Pro Race version 450R Rally (high seat) 450R Rally (low seat) Dimensions (L*W*H) inches 85*32*58 86*31*55 86*31*55 Wheelbase inches 58 58 58 Steering angle (left/right)° 38.5 38.5 38.5 Front seat h inches 38 38 36 Minimum ground clearance inches 12 12 10.6 Braking method Front: Single-disc dual-piston caliper Rear: Single-disc single-piston caliper Front: Single-disc dual-piston caliper/ABS Rear: Single-disc single-piston caliper/ABS Front: Single-disc dual-piston caliper/ABS Rear: Single-disc single-piston caliper/ABS Shock absorber form Front inverted rear external airbag Front inverted rear external airbag Front inverted rear external airbag Suspension stroke inches front 12 rear 12 front 12 rear 12 front 10 rear 10 Vehicle mass lbs. (without fuel) 320 320 320 Reach angle° 28 28 28 Tire specifications Front 90/90 -21 Rear 140/80-18 Front 90/90 – 21 Rear 140/80 -18 Front 90/90 -21 Rear 140/80-18 Fuel tank volume (gallons) 8 8 8 engine type Water cooling, oil cooling, single cylinder, overhead double cam Water cooling, oil cooling, single cylinder, overhead double cam Water cooling, oil cooling, single cylinder, overhead double cam Engine displacement fl ounces 15 15 15 ignition method EFI EFI EFI Author: Jamie Elvidge
Jamie has been a motorcycle journalist for more than 30 years, testing the entire range of bikes for the major print magazines and specializing in adventure-travel related stories. To date she’s written and supplied photography for articles describing what it’s like to ride in all 50 states and 43 foreign countries, receiving two Lowell Thomas Society of American Travel Writer’s Awards along the way. Her most-challenging adventure yet has been riding in the 2018 GS Trophy in Mongolia as Team AusAmerica’s embedded journalist. -
No doubt it’s fun to see all the new bikes being unveiled at the annual EICMA show in Milan each year, even if that thrill is so often tempered by lack of availability in the US. But this is one revealed at the show that will be headed our way, and soon — the Dakar spec’d 450 Rally Pro and standard option 450 Rally from emerging manufacturer Kove Moto.
So what is Kove Moto? It’s a Chinese brand founded in 2017 and run by CEO, Zhang Xue, a former semi-pro MX rider who is obsessed with rally raids and wants to bring the Chinese flag onto the world stage. In fact, Kove Moto already has three of its Rally Pro factory bikes and Chinese pilots entered in the grueling Dakar Rally and will compete in the upcoming edition.
For those who haven’t already left for the comments section to complain about the infiltration of Chinese brands, one of the noteworthy things about this rally bike is that the standard version, currently in the process of being approved for full street legal certification, will be affordably priced at $8,999. Its Dakar-spec’d Pro counterpart, according to the brand’s US distributor, USA Motortoys, will sell for $14,500.
ADVERTISEMENTKove Moto has been busy in its short life, developing and producing a range of street bikes, as well as a 500cc adventure bike, all to date sold in Asia under the name Colove. According to a statement on Kove Moto’s website, company sales growth for 2021 was 40%, with sales exceeding 20,000 units.
Behind the scenes at the fast-growing Chongqing-based company, CEO Xue’s passion project 450 Rally has been in the works for four years. When interviewed at EICMA, Xue made his intention clear. He not only wants to create a machine that will be competitive in Dakar and other famously tough rally raid events, he wants to make such a bike available to every rider. And as a motocross rider himself, he’s been notably hands-on during the development process and also in prototype testing.
The Rally Pro certainly looks the part, and in a recent promotional video it seems to go fine too. Power is supplied by a specially prepared Zongshen 449cc liquid-cooled single claimed to pump out 54 hp and 31 ft-lbs of torque. The standard version will offer slightly less pop: 52 ponies and 29 ft lbs of torque. It also offers a 38-inch seat h option (same as the Pro) as well as a lower 36-inch seat h option. The Pro model will come with all the Dakar-friendly goodies like a Scotts steering stabilizer and carbon navigation tower to accommodate roadbooks, while the R will come with a more standard digital display. Dry weight for both versions is listed at 320 lbs.
The bikes are equipped with three fuel tanks for a combined eight-gallon capacity offering a claimed 300 mile range and are listed as featuring 12 inches of travel front and rear, while the “Low Seat” R offers 10 inches. Wheels are the expected 21/18 combo, brakes are listed as Nissin single disc for front and rear and the recommended service interval will be 5,000+ miles.
Kove 450 Rally Pro at EICMA.
Standard 450 Rally model.
According to USA Motortoys, the first demo bikes are on track to be air shipped this month, with the bulk of the first shipment arriving to the States around May, 2023. All those first arrivals, 70 Rally models in total, will be designated “Competition Use Only.” With a unit currently being tested for street-use approval at US government labs, USA Motortoys says if all goes well it expects full street legal versions to be landing at its 71 GPXMoto dealers by Fall.
And yes it’s true the KTM and other top brand’s Rally replicas are Dakar proven and sold in extremely limited numbers, but still, the idea of owning an “uncorked” Rally bike for less than $15k will be appealing to many. Especially if it’s a bike that can be competitive and survive the toughest rally on Earth.
We won’t have to wait long to find out. But make sure to mark your calendar since the flag drop in Saudi Arabia this year will come a little early (December 31st).
Kove 450 Rally Specs
450R Rally Pro Race version 450R Rally (high seat) 450R Rally (low seat) Dimensions (L*W*H) inches 85*32*58 86*31*55 86*31*55 Wheelbase inches 58 58 58 Steering angle (left/right)° 38.5 38.5 38.5 Front seat h inches 38 38 36 Minimum ground clearance inches 12 12 10.6 Braking method Front: Single-disc dual-piston caliper Rear: Single-disc single-piston caliper Front: Single-disc dual-piston caliper/ABS Rear: Single-disc single-piston caliper/ABS Front: Single-disc dual-piston caliper/ABS Rear: Single-disc single-piston caliper/ABS Shock absorber form Front inverted rear external airbag Front inverted rear external airbag Front inverted rear external airbag Suspension stroke inches front 12 rear 12 front 12 rear 12 front 10 rear 10 Vehicle mass lbs. (without fuel) 320 320 320 Reach angle° 28 28 28 Tire specifications Front 90/90 -21 Rear 140/80-18 Front 90/90 – 21 Rear 140/80 -18 Front 90/90 -21 Rear 140/80-18 Fuel tank volume (gallons) 8 8 8 engine type Water cooling, oil cooling, single cylinder, overhead double cam Water cooling, oil cooling, single cylinder, overhead double cam Water cooling, oil cooling, single cylinder, overhead double cam Engine displacement fl ounces 15 15 15 ignition method EFI EFI EFI Author: Jamie Elvidge
Jamie has been a motorcycle journalist for more than 30 years, testing the entire range of bikes for the major print magazines and specializing in adventure-travel related stories. To date she’s written and supplied photography for articles describing what it’s like to ride in all 50 states and 43 foreign countries, receiving two Lowell Thomas Society of American Travel Writer’s Awards along the way. Her most-challenging adventure yet has been riding in the 2018 GS Trophy in Mongolia as Team AusAmerica’s embedded journalist. -
“The most dangerous motorcycle ever built.”
This is a paraphrase, or maybe the exact title, from a magazine review I remember reading shortly after the KTM 950 Adventure S was first introduced in 2003. Obviously, I was intrigued. The author was waxing ironic by indicating that the engineering in this oddity of adventure motorcycles was of a level that allowed the rider to do things most likely beyond their abilities. Rolling along at what you think is a comfortable pace on a relatively smooth, curvy dirt road, and looking down at the speedo to see you are doing 130 mph is eye opening. It’s something that makes you realize the potential consequences of unleashing the full fury of what is arguably the largest consumer-friendly version of a rally bike ever built. That said, A bit of history is in order.
The original race bike that started it all, the KTM 950 Rally, had a lot in common with the production model. Photo: KTM
When KTM’s V-Twin LC8 platform was first released to the world in 2003 in the form of the 950 Adventure S, it was a game-changer. Based heavily on the KTM 950 Rally prototype, the bike wasn’t deemed ready for production until pilot Fabrizio Meoni had already won both the Pharaons Rally (2001) and the Dakar Rally (2002) aboard the machine.
For several decades, manufacturers such as Honda, Yamaha, Cagiva, and KTM all started building twin-cylinder off-road monsters, and buck-and-a-quarter speeds at the Dakar suddenly became an almost common thing. The KTM 950 Rally was the last of this breed of large-displacement twins to race Dakar before being banned due to safety concerns about the speeds these dreadnaughts were capable of. What was unleashed to the public in 2003 was essentially a legalized rally bike capable of never before seen performance off-road for this class of motorcycle, even in its tamed production form.
ADVERTISEMENTWith a chassis virtually unchanged over the next 10 years, the 950 Adventure S increased displacement to become the 990 Adventure R in 2006, and would continue on with only minor updates until 2012. As such a unique motorcycle design, the KTM 950/990 Adventure platform built a legendary reputation as an off-road capable adventure bike that still stands years after its discontinuation.
The 950 Adventure S increased displacement to become the 990 Adventure R in 2006, and would continue on with only minor updates until 2012.
A Worthy Revival
Recently, a friend of mine reached out to ask me if I’d be interested in adopting his 2008 KTM 990 Adventure that had been sitting around collecting dust. Normally, this would seem like incredible good fortune, but having been on several trips with this bike I was well aware that it had not lived a kind or gentle life. This particular 990 checked the “hard travel” box more times than anyone can count. Where many big twins spend a decent amount of time at local coffee shops, this one had been lost at the bottom of a river in Mexico.
Near the highest point along one of Northern Baja’s trails, a large and normally dry floodplain began absorbing water from a storm a few miles away. In minutes, the route went from dry trail, to muddy mess, to a wall of water leading the way for a torrent to follow. While the water remained a manageable depth, the rider began crossing the plain. Before reaching the other side, a four-foot high wall of water came careening in from the distance, slammed the bike and rider to the ground, and carried both about 100 yards downstream until being stopped on a tree stump.
The 990 found and rescued after being swept away by raging waters in Mexico.Fortunately, the rider was able to get out from underneath both the bike itself, and the crushing onslaught of water, and climb to safety. The 990 however, remained buried under the silty maelstrom for a half an hour until the flash flood waters finally began to subside. Only once the floodplain calmed from a raging torrent to a fast-flowing river was the bike able to be recovered with the help of a local rancher’s truck.
Countless trips in and out of various repair shops healed some of the wounds on this bike, but mystery problems persisted hidden somewhere deep inside the thing. When I received the bike, it started and ran but its erratic throttle response made it essentially unrideable. Chipping paint and scars from an abusive life were clearly noticeable. Yet with its Scotts steering damper, upgraded skid plate, luggage racks, and the monstrous exhaust note from its Leo Vince pipes, the overall platform was set up quite nicely.
The V-twin growl from its Leo Vince pipes are a thing of beauty.
Having owned a 2005.5 950 Adventure S which was probably my all-time favorite bike to ride, clearly I had an affinity for these machines. Unfortunately, that 950S was totaled in an incident on the street many years ago. This ‘basket case’ of a 990 had been written off as a lost cause by most, but for me I felt like it deserved to be back on the trail and I was willing to put in the time to attempt to fix it.
The Specs
Before diving into this moto-resurrection saga, what is this bike? By the details, the 2008 KTM 990 Adventure (standard model) is a 999cc V-twin inhaling through a very high intake and exhaling through equally high twin pipes. Producing a claimed 98 horsepower and 70.1 ft-lbs of torque at 6,500 rpm, this powerplant is connected to a 6-speed manual transmission and rides in a trellis-style chassis where it also serves as a stressed member.
In stock form, this chassis has a wheelbase of 61.8 inches, 10.3 inches of ground clearance, and a seat h of 33.9 inches. Overall claimed dry weight for the bike is 438.7 pounds, and that weight increases by roughly 35 lbs as 5.8 gallons of fuel are added between dual tanks hanging from each side of the bike. All this rolls on a 21”/18” set of spoked wheels featuring Brembo brake calipers gripping twin 11.8 inch rotors up front and a single 9.5 inch rotor in the rear. WP suspension provides 8.3 inches of travel all around.
Getting The Engine Sorted
While the bike did start, and produced forward motion, it was roughly the equivalent of riding a mechanical bull powered by nitrous and the bad dreams of a thousand angry hippos. In short, a barely controllable powerband. Clearly there was going to be a lot of work involved, so first things first, take care of the more basic maintenance items such as oil change, oil and air filter maintenance, cleaning/lubing the chain, fuel filters, as well as draining and replacing the existing fuel of unknown age sloshing around in the tanks.
Convenience was clearly not in mind when considering the oil change procedure on the 950/990. The factory service manual goes so far as to state, “Since many parts must be demounted for an oil change, we recommend having the engine oil changed by an authorized KTM workshop.” In addition to most of the front end body work needing to be removed, the left-side fuel tank also has to be removed for this process.
We gave our project bike some fresh quarts of Motul 7100, an ester-based full synthetic designed for high-performance bikes like the KTM 990 Adventure.
The unique dual-tank design of the 950/990 is a double-edged sword, depending on whether one is looking at the bike from a riding perspective or a maintenance perspective. This design allows the bike to be amazingly slim like no other bike in this class at the time, while keeping the fuel weight lower. When it comes to maintenance, this means a lot of bolt spinning as the bodywork and fuel tanks need to come off for almost any procedure related to the motor.
Fuel filters can tend to be neglected on the 990 because they are tucked away inside the fuel pump, which is tucked away inside the fuel tank. Once removed, the fuel pump itself needs to be disassembled and reassembled to gain access to the filter. While not an overly complex procedure, there are certainly many steps involved.
Changing the fuel filter requires removing the left-side tank and the fuel pump, then disassembling it to access the filter inside the pump itself. While not rocket surgery, there are several steps involved, and replacing all seals is highly recommended.
With the right-side tank removed and the air box opened up, ports on the throttle bodies can be accessed to allow them to be synchronized or “balanced.” The idea is to ensure each cylinder is receiving the same amount of air through the butterfly valves, and the difference in a motor with properly synced throttle bodies versus an out-of-sync setup is staggering, especially at or near idle.
Further steps taken to try and tame this beast included less basic maintenance procedures including replacing an extremely dirty fuel filter, balancing the throttle bodies, replacing and adjusting the throttle position sensor unit, and performing what is known as the “15 minute” ECU learning fix – a process that allows the bike’s ECU to relearn optimal settings for the bike’s current environment.
The old battery was shot so we put in a Fire Power Lithium Battery that puts out 310 cold cranking amps and weighs just 2.4 pounds compared to 230 CCA and 8.6 pounds for the replacement AGM battery.
Once some of these more perfunctory mechanical duties were taken care of, the larger issues began to reveal themselves. A massive “detent” in the throttle response right off idle which morphed into a bucking bronco effect toward the mid-range. With the use of TuneECU software, 18 different fuel maps were tested in an attempt to correct this problem, but to no avail. Each map altered the characteristic of the engine and would change the symptom, but never fully correct it.
As many as 18 different fuel maps were tested in an attempt to correct our fueling problem.
Feeling a bit stifled with our progress on the project, we asked the master mechanics at KTM North America HQ to check if the ECU was defective. What they found was a myriad of other things instead, caused by age, neglect and various failed troubleshooting efforts over the years, that contributed to the erratic fueling symptoms we were experiencing. Mis-adjusted throttle cables, incorrect ignition curve, and loose wiring were among the gremlins lurking in this machine.
After having many of these things corrected, the bike was now rideable but still had a brutal stumble at around 4000 to 5000 rpm. Our friends at KTM suggested a couple of things to check into that were likely the cause of the final fueling issue. The 990 has three MAP (Manifold Air Pressure) sensors — one on each throttle body and a third in the front cowling behind the instrument cluster. Given time and the right conditions (such as being drowned in a silty river in Mexico), these sensors can become dirty and clogged, potentially causing a stumble at certain RPM ranges.
Replacing cracked vacuum lines and cleaning the MAP sensors would reveal an entirely new motorcycle.
Upon inspection, it was immediately apparent that the short vacuum lines connecting these sensors were cracked and leaking. Replacing these hoses and attachment points, cleaning all three MAP sensors with a de-oxidizing electronic parts cleaner revealed an entirely new motorcycle. Possibly the smoothest and best-sounding 990 Adventure I’ve ever ridden.
Refreshing The Chassis
Among the list of maintenance performed, even those more straightforward sounding bits took on unusual forms in this project. For example, changing fork oil. While that is arguably a level 1 or 2 task, what made it unusual is that we were not changing the oil in ‘this’ bike’s forks.
2005 KTM 950 Adventure S donor bike before it was totaled in a crash.
As mentioned earlier in this story, I also own a 2005 KTM 950 Adventure S which was totaled in a crash. While riding this bike some years ago I was unfortunately hit by a VW Jetta when it decided to suddenly zig instead of zag mid-way through an intersection in LA, resulting in quite a bit of damage including a broken frame. Thankfully, I was able to purchase it as salvage and it came in handy as an organ donor for this project bike.
In stock form, the 2005 950 Adventure S featured a fork spring rate of 0.48 which I had previously upgraded to stiffer 0.52 springs and re-valved the suspension. In turn, the rear shock remained mostly stock, aside from a spacer which was removed to increase the travel to its full potential. These changes increased the overall h of the bike so much that the center stand and side stand had to be lengthened.
The fork oil hadn’t been serviced in over a decade. What came out was a nasty chocolate milk color with barely any viscosity.
The forks of our 2008 990 Adventure project bike were significantly shorter than the older 950 Adventure S’, and were also in need of some dire maintenance. Rather than put the effort into the 990’s shorter legs, we opted to swap both the forks and rear shock from the 950 S to bring our project bike a bit closer to its original rally heritage. With the suspension swapped, the wheel travel, seat h and ground clearance were now raised 2 inches higher than stock.
The suspension swap also required a long ‘S-model’ center stand and kickstand.
This swap led to some interesting challenges, as the older 950 did not possess ABS, and thus the mounting points on the fork stubs for things such as wheel sensors and fenders don’t quite line up. There were enough available threaded options to allow everything to be assembled, and only on close inspection can the differences between the model years be seen. Another key difference between the two models is the side stand killswitch, which didn’t exist on the 950 Adventure. A 2012 OEM 990R side stand was sourced as it incorporates a magnetic kill switch tab and has the required length to handle the taller suspension.
We replaced the old fork oil with Motul Synthetic 5W to give the front end that ‘fresh from the factory’ feel.
While the brakes were working, fluids of unknown age and condition were replaced to enhance stopping performance. The typical method of bleeding air from the systems by pumping the master cylinders until all air is purged is effective, but can be time consuming. A vacuum pump brake bleeder was used to more efficiently pump out the air and replenish the old brake fluid with fresh Motul DOT 5.1.
Saving one of the more obvious and immediate upgrades to the bike for last — the tires. A set of the old-style Heidenau K60 Scout hoops of unknown age was mounted on the 990 when we received it. They had clearly been on the motorcycle for a long while, and the rear tire was squared off to the degree it resembled a car tire more than a motorcycle tire. These were swapped out for a fresh set of Dunlop D606 front and D908 Rally Raid rear knobbies, which further enhance the KTM’s rally-like performance.
We swapped the old tires for a fresh set of Dunlop D606 front and D908 Rally Raid rear knobbies to get the bike ready for Baja.
Aesthetics
One thing that definitely set KTM’s first twin-cylinder motorcycle apart from the pack when it was first introduced in 2003 is aesthetics. This bike simply looked like nothing else out there, for better or worse. Even the various color schemes and rally-esque models like the 2004 “GO!!!!!!!” bike stood out from the pack. Over time, the paint used in these vivid color schemes proved to struggle with remaining attached to the fuel tanks, and would eventually bubble and flake off on most bikes which had seen higher mileage and more extensive off-road use.
The saddle was refreshed with a new cover from Seat Concepts but the paint is in bad condition and still needs to be addressed.
Our test 990 was no different in this regard, and was suffering from this dreaded motorcycle dandruff. For some reason, the right side looked like it had been through a war, while the left side, only a few skirmishes. The seat as well, was severely faded with a couple small holes, so it received a new cover from Seat Concepts. New graphics are another visual upgrade we’re considering to further bring this legendary machine back to its former glory.
The Final Stretch
Aside from a few tweaks on our to do list, the bike is now prepped and ready for a real adventure. Plenty of these levithan dirt bikes are still going strong, and a Baja run with a few other 990s is in the planning stages. Given this particular bike’s challenged history, throwing it into the gauntlet of Baja’s remote and rugged terrain is both a fitting test and an opportunity for redemption after its last trip down south.
Stoked to have our 990 back on the trail and we can’t wait to let those twin pipes roar out in the open desert.
I’ve been riding almost exclusively modern machines these past few years, many of which have been much lighter, bleeding-edge tech middleweight adventure bikes. Climbing back aboard KTM’s first twin-cylinder motorcycle design may sound like something that would be a toned-down walk through the land of vintage motorcycles. But after thumbing the starter and hearing the percussive bark that roars from this machine you’re reminded that this is a bike that was banned from the most difficult rally in the world because it was simply too fast and powerful. Stay tuned for part 2!
Photography by Rob Dabney and Jon Beck
Author: Jon Beck
Jon Beck is fulfilling a dream of never figuring out what to be when he grows up. Racing mountain bikes, competitive surfing, and touring as a musician are somehow part of what led Jon to travel through over 40 countries so far as an adventure motorcycle photographer, journalist, and guide. From precision riding for cameras in Hollywood, to refilling a fountain pen for travel stories, Jon brings a rare blend of experience to the table. While he seems happiest when lost in a desert someplace, deadlines are met most of the time. -
“The most dangerous motorcycle ever built.”
This is a paraphrase, or maybe the exact title, from a magazine review I remember reading shortly after the KTM 950 Adventure S was first introduced in 2003. Obviously, I was intrigued. The author was waxing ironic by indicating that the engineering in this oddity of adventure motorcycles was of a level that allowed the rider to do things most likely beyond their abilities. Rolling along at what you think is a comfortable pace on a relatively smooth, curvy dirt road, and looking down at the speedo to see you are doing 130 mph is eye opening. It’s something that makes you realize the potential consequences of unleashing the full fury of what is arguably the largest consumer-friendly version of a rally bike ever built. That said, A bit of history is in order.
The original race bike that started it all, the KTM 950 Rally, had a lot in common with the production model. Photo: KTM
When KTM’s V-Twin LC8 platform was first released to the world in 2003 in the form of the 950 Adventure S, it was a game-changer. Based heavily on the KTM 950 Rally prototype, the bike wasn’t deemed ready for production until pilot Fabrizio Meoni had already won both the Pharaons Rally (2001) and the Dakar Rally (2002) aboard the machine.
For several decades, manufacturers such as Honda, Yamaha, Cagiva, and KTM all started building twin-cylinder off-road monsters, and buck-and-a-quarter speeds at the Dakar suddenly became an almost common thing. The KTM 950 Rally was the last of this breed of large-displacement twins to race Dakar before being banned due to safety concerns about the speeds these dreadnaughts were capable of. What was unleashed to the public in 2003 was essentially a legalized rally bike capable of never before seen performance off-road for this class of motorcycle, even in its tamed production form.
ADVERTISEMENTWith a chassis virtually unchanged over the next 10 years, the 950 Adventure S increased displacement to become the 990 Adventure R in 2006, and would continue on with only minor updates until 2012. As such a unique motorcycle design, the KTM 950/990 Adventure platform built a legendary reputation as an off-road capable adventure bike that still stands years after its discontinuation.
The 950 Adventure S increased displacement to become the 990 Adventure R in 2006, and would continue on with only minor updates until 2012.
A Worthy Revival
Recently, a friend of mine reached out to ask me if I’d be interested in adopting his 2008 KTM 990 Adventure that had been sitting around collecting dust. Normally, this would seem like incredible good fortune, but having been on several trips with this bike I was well aware that it had not lived a kind or gentle life. This particular 990 checked the “hard travel” box more times than anyone can count. Where many big twins spend a decent amount of time at local coffee shops, this one had been lost at the bottom of a river in Mexico.
Near the highest point along one of Northern Baja’s trails, a large and normally dry floodplain began absorbing water from a storm a few miles away. In minutes, the route went from dry trail, to muddy mess, to a wall of water leading the way for a torrent to follow. While the water remained a manageable depth, the rider began crossing the plain. Before reaching the other side, a four-foot high wall of water came careening in from the distance, slammed the bike and rider to the ground, and carried both about 100 yards downstream until being stopped on a tree stump.
The 990 found and rescued after being swept away by raging waters in Mexico.Fortunately, the rider was able to get out from underneath both the bike itself, and the crushing onslaught of water, and climb to safety. The 990 however, remained buried under the silty maelstrom for a half an hour until the flash flood waters finally began to subside. Only once the floodplain calmed from a raging torrent to a fast-flowing river was the bike able to be recovered with the help of a local rancher’s truck.
Countless trips in and out of various repair shops healed some of the wounds on this bike, but mystery problems persisted hidden somewhere deep inside the thing. When I received the bike, it started and ran but its erratic throttle response made it essentially unrideable. Chipping paint and scars from an abusive life were clearly noticeable. Yet with its Scotts steering damper, upgraded skid plate, luggage racks, and the monstrous exhaust note from its Leo Vince pipes, the overall platform was set up quite nicely.
The V-twin growl from its Leo Vince pipes are a thing of beauty.
Having owned a 2005.5 950 Adventure S which was probably my all-time favorite bike to ride, clearly I had an affinity for these machines. Unfortunately, that 950S was totaled in an incident on the street many years ago. This ‘basket case’ of a 990 had been written off as a lost cause by most, but for me I felt like it deserved to be back on the trail and I was willing to put in the time to attempt to fix it.
The Specs
Before diving into this moto-resurrection saga, what is this bike? By the details, the 2008 KTM 990 Adventure (standard model) is a 999cc V-twin inhaling through a very high intake and exhaling through equally high twin pipes. Producing a claimed 98 horsepower and 70.1 ft-lbs of torque at 6,500 rpm, this powerplant is connected to a 6-speed manual transmission and rides in a trellis-style chassis where it also serves as a stressed member.
In stock form, this chassis has a wheelbase of 61.8 inches, 10.3 inches of ground clearance, and a seat h of 33.9 inches. Overall claimed dry weight for the bike is 438.7 pounds, and that weight increases by roughly 35 lbs as 5.8 gallons of fuel are added between dual tanks hanging from each side of the bike. All this rolls on a 21”/18” set of spoked wheels featuring Brembo brake calipers gripping twin 11.8 inch rotors up front and a single 9.5 inch rotor in the rear. WP suspension provides 8.3 inches of travel all around.
Getting The Engine Sorted
While the bike did start, and produced forward motion, it was roughly the equivalent of riding a mechanical bull powered by nitrous and the bad dreams of a thousand angry hippos. In short, a barely controllable powerband. Clearly there was going to be a lot of work involved, so first things first, take care of the more basic maintenance items such as oil change, oil and air filter maintenance, cleaning/lubing the chain, fuel filters, as well as draining and replacing the existing fuel of unknown age sloshing around in the tanks.
Convenience was clearly not in mind when considering the oil change procedure on the 950/990. The factory service manual goes so far as to state, “Since many parts must be demounted for an oil change, we recommend having the engine oil changed by an authorized KTM workshop.” In addition to most of the front end body work needing to be removed, the left-side fuel tank also has to be removed for this process.
We gave our project bike some fresh quarts of Motul 7100, an ester-based full synthetic designed for high-performance bikes like the KTM 990 Adventure.
The unique dual-tank design of the 950/990 is a double-edged sword, depending on whether one is looking at the bike from a riding perspective or a maintenance perspective. This design allows the bike to be amazingly slim like no other bike in this class at the time, while keeping the fuel weight lower. When it comes to maintenance, this means a lot of bolt spinning as the bodywork and fuel tanks need to come off for almost any procedure related to the motor.
Fuel filters can tend to be neglected on the 990 because they are tucked away inside the fuel pump, which is tucked away inside the fuel tank. Once removed, the fuel pump itself needs to be disassembled and reassembled to gain access to the filter. While not an overly complex procedure, there are certainly many steps involved.
Changing the fuel filter requires removing the left-side tank and the fuel pump, then disassembling it to access the filter inside the pump itself. While not rocket surgery, there are several steps involved, and replacing all seals is highly recommended.
With the right-side tank removed and the air box opened up, ports on the throttle bodies can be accessed to allow them to be synchronized or “balanced.” The idea is to ensure each cylinder is receiving the same amount of air through the butterfly valves, and the difference in a motor with properly synced throttle bodies versus an out-of-sync setup is staggering, especially at or near idle.
Further steps taken to try and tame this beast included less basic maintenance procedures including replacing an extremely dirty fuel filter, balancing the throttle bodies, replacing and adjusting the throttle position sensor unit, and performing what is known as the “15 minute” ECU learning fix – a process that allows the bike’s ECU to relearn optimal settings for the bike’s current environment.
The old battery was shot so we put in a Fire Power Lithium Battery that puts out 310 cold cranking amps and weighs just 2.4 pounds compared to 230 CCA and 8.6 pounds for the replacement AGM battery.
Once some of these more perfunctory mechanical duties were taken care of, the larger issues began to reveal themselves. A massive “detent” in the throttle response right off idle which morphed into a bucking bronco effect toward the mid-range. With the use of TuneECU software, 18 different fuel maps were tested in an attempt to correct this problem, but to no avail. Each map altered the characteristic of the engine and would change the symptom, but never fully correct it.
As many as 18 different fuel maps were tested in an attempt to correct our fueling problem.
Feeling a bit stifled with our progress on the project, we asked the master mechanics at KTM North America HQ to check if the ECU was defective. What they found was a myriad of other things instead, caused by age, neglect and various failed troubleshooting efforts over the years, that contributed to the erratic fueling symptoms we were experiencing. Mis-adjusted throttle cables, incorrect ignition curve, and loose wiring were among the gremlins lurking in this machine.
After having many of these things corrected, the bike was now rideable but still had a brutal stumble at around 4000 to 5000 rpm. Our friends at KTM suggested a couple of things to check into that were likely the cause of the final fueling issue. The 990 has three MAP (Manifold Air Pressure) sensors — one on each throttle body and a third in the front cowling behind the instrument cluster. Given time and the right conditions (such as being drowned in a silty river in Mexico), these sensors can become dirty and clogged, potentially causing a stumble at certain RPM ranges.
Replacing cracked vacuum lines and cleaning the MAP sensors would reveal an entirely new motorcycle.
Upon inspection, it was immediately apparent that the short vacuum lines connecting these sensors were cracked and leaking. Replacing these hoses and attachment points, cleaning all three MAP sensors with a de-oxidizing electronic parts cleaner revealed an entirely new motorcycle. Possibly the smoothest and best-sounding 990 Adventure I’ve ever ridden.
Refreshing The Chassis
Among the list of maintenance performed, even those more straightforward sounding bits took on unusual forms in this project. For example, changing fork oil. While that is arguably a level 1 or 2 task, what made it unusual is that we were not changing the oil in ‘this’ bike’s forks.
2005 KTM 950 Adventure S donor bike before it was totaled in a crash.
As mentioned earlier in this story, I also own a 2005 KTM 950 Adventure S which was totaled in a crash. While riding this bike some years ago I was unfortunately hit by a VW Jetta when it decided to suddenly zig instead of zag mid-way through an intersection in LA, resulting in quite a bit of damage including a broken frame. Thankfully, I was able to purchase it as salvage and it came in handy as an organ donor for this project bike.
In stock form, the 2005 950 Adventure S featured a fork spring rate of 0.48 which I had previously upgraded to stiffer 0.52 springs and re-valved the suspension. In turn, the rear shock remained mostly stock, aside from a spacer which was removed to increase the travel to its full potential. These changes increased the overall h of the bike so much that the center stand and side stand had to be lengthened.
The fork oil hadn’t been serviced in over a decade. What came out was a nasty chocolate milk color with barely any viscosity.
The forks of our 2008 990 Adventure project bike were significantly shorter than the older 950 Adventure S’, and were also in need of some dire maintenance. Rather than put the effort into the 990’s shorter legs, we opted to swap both the forks and rear shock from the 950 S to bring our project bike a bit closer to its original rally heritage. With the suspension swapped, the wheel travel, seat h and ground clearance were now raised 2 inches higher than stock.
The suspension swap also required a long ‘S-model’ center stand and kickstand.
This swap led to some interesting challenges, as the older 950 did not possess ABS, and thus the mounting points on the fork stubs for things such as wheel sensors and fenders don’t quite line up. There were enough available threaded options to allow everything to be assembled, and only on close inspection can the differences between the model years be seen. Another key difference between the two models is the side stand killswitch, which didn’t exist on the 950 Adventure. A 2012 OEM 990R side stand was sourced as it incorporates a magnetic kill switch tab and has the required length to handle the taller suspension.
We replaced the old fork oil with Motul Synthetic 5W to give the front end that ‘fresh from the factory’ feel.
While the brakes were working, fluids of unknown age and condition were replaced to enhance stopping performance. The typical method of bleeding air from the systems by pumping the master cylinders until all air is purged is effective, but can be time consuming. A vacuum pump brake bleeder was used to more efficiently pump out the air and replenish the old brake fluid with fresh Motul DOT 5.1.
Saving one of the more obvious and immediate upgrades to the bike for last — the tires. A set of the old-style Heidenau K60 Scout hoops of unknown age was mounted on the 990 when we received it. They had clearly been on the motorcycle for a long while, and the rear tire was squared off to the degree it resembled a car tire more than a motorcycle tire. These were swapped out for a fresh set of Dunlop D606 front and D908 Rally Raid rear knobbies, which further enhance the KTM’s rally-like performance.
We swapped the old tires for a fresh set of Dunlop D606 front and D908 Rally Raid rear knobbies to get the bike ready for Baja.
Aesthetics
One thing that definitely set KTM’s first twin-cylinder motorcycle apart from the pack when it was first introduced in 2003 is aesthetics. This bike simply looked like nothing else out there, for better or worse. Even the various color schemes and rally-esque models like the 2004 “GO!!!!!!!” bike stood out from the pack. Over time, the paint used in these vivid color schemes proved to struggle with remaining attached to the fuel tanks, and would eventually bubble and flake off on most bikes which had seen higher mileage and more extensive off-road use.
The saddle was refreshed with a new cover from Seat Concepts but the paint is in bad condition and still needs to be addressed.
Our test 990 was no different in this regard, and was suffering from this dreaded motorcycle dandruff. For some reason, the right side looked like it had been through a war, while the left side, only a few skirmishes. The seat as well, was severely faded with a couple small holes, so it received a new cover from Seat Concepts. New graphics are another visual upgrade we’re considering to further bring this legendary machine back to its former glory.
The Final Stretch
Aside from a few tweaks on our to do list, the bike is now prepped and ready for a real adventure. Plenty of these levithan dirt bikes are still going strong, and a Baja run with a few other 990s is in the planning stages. Given this particular bike’s challenged history, throwing it into the gauntlet of Baja’s remote and rugged terrain is both a fitting test and an opportunity for redemption after its last trip down south.
Stoked to have our 990 back on the trail and we can’t wait to let those twin pipes roar out in the open desert.
I’ve been riding almost exclusively modern machines these past few years, many of which have been much lighter, bleeding-edge tech middleweight adventure bikes. Climbing back aboard KTM’s first twin-cylinder motorcycle design may sound like something that would be a toned-down walk through the land of vintage motorcycles. But after thumbing the starter and hearing the percussive bark that roars from this machine you’re reminded that this is a bike that was banned from the most difficult rally in the world because it was simply too fast and powerful. Stay tuned for part 2!
Photography by Rob Dabney and Jon Beck
Author: Jon Beck
Jon Beck is fulfilling a dream of never figuring out what to be when he grows up. Racing mountain bikes, competitive surfing, and touring as a musician are somehow part of what led Jon to travel through over 40 countries so far as an adventure motorcycle photographer, journalist, and guide. From precision riding for cameras in Hollywood, to refilling a fountain pen for travel stories, Jon brings a rare blend of experience to the table. While he seems happiest when lost in a desert someplace, deadlines are met most of the time. -
Anyone remember the Honda Dominator? This was an early adventure bike, the NX650, which was pretty popular in Europe during its production years of 1988 to 2003. As an NX model, it did come to the States after its initial launch, but America was apparently disinterested in the big single and by 1990 the NX650 was discontinued here.
“The mechanics are always reliable and functional, so we have revised the entire superstructure. The tank is from a 1989 dominator, while the rest we have created.” – North East Custom.
So, while the NX650 is a bit of a collector’s item in the U.S. these days, there are plenty of units floating around Europe, and the owners of one scrapyard-bound 1995 Dominator decided to have their bike reimagined by the young Italian builders at North East Custom in Northern Italy. In a nod to these customers, North East’s owners, brothers Diego and Riki Coppiello, renamed and number plated the bike 782, a merging of the customers’ birth years: 1978 and 1982.
Stock Dominators were respected for their affordability, simplicity, reliability and friendly, go-anywhere nature. So it’s no surprise the mechanicals on the bike are virtually untouched, save for the application of completely custom twin stainless silencers handmade by Virex, a partner of North East Custom. The forks look new, but that’s thanks to fresh paint and new gaiters.
ADVERTISEMENTThe North East guys are big fans of rally racing and vintage enduro bikes, and the 782 build reflects that passion. “The starting motorbike is a 1995 Honda Dominator, not exactly famous for being pretty. First thing first was to give it a new aesthetic and we took inspiration from the rally raid word,“ says Diego.
It was a primary intention not to let functionality take a backseat to style with this bike so the customers could use it as a daily rider. When ADV Pulse interviewed co-owner Diego Coppiello, he told us he and his brother Riki (along with the shop’s car guy, Henry Zenere) especially enjoy doing makeovers on machines that would otherwise be headed to the scrap pile, saying they “love to enhance the inner beauty and soul” of every bike that comes to the shop. “We firmly believe there are no old or ugly bikes to get rid of. There’s always a chance for a new interpretation and a new appeal.”
Well, the brothers certainly made this bike look appealing. The first thing that draws the eye is the attractively asymmetrical pair of LED headlamps trimmed in aluminum and housed in a custom-made fiberglass fairing that swoops down to seamlessly blend into its side panels. These side panels, which incorporate auxiliary LED light strips, go on to perfectly meet with the revised fuel tank, a straight swap from an 1989 Dominator which Diego says has better aesthetics .
Behind the fairing is a handmade, old-school vibe dash that houses Koso digital instruments, a couple lighted switches, a power port and fuse box. Below the dash is a pouch for holding sunglasses, phone or other vitals, though its coolest feature might be the neon yellow thread stitching that jumps from the pouch to a house-built roll bar pad that’s wrapping around a Neken handlebar. Grips from Domino Racing and foldable mirrors finish off the cockpit view.
The 782’s stock seat was rebuilt in-house, with the team modifying the foam and reupholstering the works in black vinyl leather, which is accentuated with more of that eye-pleasing fluorescent stitching. The side panels below the seat were custom machined from aluminum to protect luggage and rider from the exhaust heat, and mated to a fiberglass rear fender also formed at North East Custom. The high moto-style front fender is from UFO Plast.
Way out back there’s a custom neon metallic rack with a black quick release bracket to secure a bag. Diego told us the bike’s footpegs are a modified set from Vespa accessory maker, Buzzetti, which leads us to mention how the brothers’ business began when they were kids at home, customizing Vespas for friends and family before they moved onto motorcycles.
One of the handy things about these Dominator models is they came stock with 21/17-inch spoked wheel setup, which North East freshened with new gold rims and finished with a set of trail-ready TKC80s. Suspension is unchanged, with a stock setup of a front 41mm fork, and Pro-Link rear offering 8.6 in. and 7.6 in. of travel respectively. Power from the big single was a useful 45 hp with 39 ft-lb of torque, which likely got a goose from the new exhaust system.
Bold retro graphics inspired by rally raid bikes complete the neo-classic build.
We love that this custom adventure bike looks super cool without being over the top. It also doesn’t look too expensive, like some showbike to be displayed rather than ridden. And that was always the brothers’ intention, to give this bike a second chance. Diego told us what he wants everyone to notice about this project is that Dominator 782 was a motorcycle ready to be sent to the junkyard. Now it has a new life, thanks only to some “aesthetic touches and hand work.”
“There’s always a chance for a new interpretation and a new appeal. It’s the magic of our job.”
Photography by Filippo Molena
Author: Jamie Elvidge
Jamie has been a motorcycle journalist for more than 30 years, testing the entire range of bikes for the major print magazines and specializing in adventure-travel related stories. To date she’s written and supplied photography for articles describing what it’s like to ride in all 50 states and 43 foreign countries, receiving two Lowell Thomas Society of American Travel Writer’s Awards along the way. Her most-challenging adventure yet has been riding in the 2018 GS Trophy in Mongolia as Team AusAmerica’s embedded journalist. -
Anyone remember the Honda Dominator? This was an early adventure bike, the NX650, which was pretty popular in Europe during its production years of 1988 to 2003. As an NX model, it did come to the States after its initial launch, but America was apparently disinterested in the big single and by 1990 the NX650 was discontinued here.
“The mechanics are always reliable and functional, so we have revised the entire superstructure. The tank is from a 1989 dominator, while the rest we have created.” – North East Custom.
So, while the NX650 is a bit of a collector’s item in the U.S. these days, there are plenty of units floating around Europe, and the owners of one scrapyard-bound 1995 Dominator decided to have their bike reimagined by the young Italian builders at North East Custom in Northern Italy. In a nod to these customers, North East’s owners, brothers Diego and Riki Coppiello, renamed and number plated the bike 782, a merging of the customers’ birth years: 1978 and 1982.
Stock Dominators were respected for their affordability, simplicity, reliability and friendly, go-anywhere nature. So it’s no surprise the mechanicals on the bike are virtually untouched, save for the application of completely custom twin stainless silencers handmade by Virex, a partner of North East Custom. The forks look new, but that’s thanks to fresh paint and new gaiters.
ADVERTISEMENTThe North East guys are big fans of rally racing and vintage enduro bikes, and the 782 build reflects that passion. “The starting motorbike is a 1995 Honda Dominator, not exactly famous for being pretty. First thing first was to give it a new aesthetic and we took inspiration from the rally raid word,“ says Diego.
It was a primary intention not to let functionality take a backseat to style with this bike so the customers could use it as a daily rider. When ADV Pulse interviewed co-owner Diego Coppiello, he told us he and his brother Riki (along with the shop’s car guy, Henry Zenere) especially enjoy doing makeovers on machines that would otherwise be headed to the scrap pile, saying they “love to enhance the inner beauty and soul” of every bike that comes to the shop. “We firmly believe there are no old or ugly bikes to get rid of. There’s always a chance for a new interpretation and a new appeal.”
Well, the brothers certainly made this bike look appealing. The first thing that draws the eye is the attractively asymmetrical pair of LED headlamps trimmed in aluminum and housed in a custom-made fiberglass fairing that swoops down to seamlessly blend into its side panels. These side panels, which incorporate auxiliary LED light strips, go on to perfectly meet with the revised fuel tank, a straight swap from an 1989 Dominator which Diego says has better aesthetics .
Behind the fairing is a handmade, old-school vibe dash that houses Koso digital instruments, a couple lighted switches, a power port and fuse box. Below the dash is a pouch for holding sunglasses, phone or other vitals, though its coolest feature might be the neon yellow thread stitching that jumps from the pouch to a house-built roll bar pad that’s wrapping around a Neken handlebar. Grips from Domino Racing and foldable mirrors finish off the cockpit view.
The 782’s stock seat was rebuilt in-house, with the team modifying the foam and reupholstering the works in black vinyl leather, which is accentuated with more of that eye-pleasing fluorescent stitching. The side panels below the seat were custom machined from aluminum to protect luggage and rider from the exhaust heat, and mated to a fiberglass rear fender also formed at North East Custom. The high moto-style front fender is from UFO Plast.
Way out back there’s a custom neon metallic rack with a black quick release bracket to secure a bag. Diego told us the bike’s footpegs are a modified set from Vespa accessory maker, Buzzetti, which leads us to mention how the brothers’ business began when they were kids at home, customizing Vespas for friends and family before they moved onto motorcycles.
One of the handy things about these Dominator models is they came stock with 21/17-inch spoked wheel setup, which North East freshened with new gold rims and finished with a set of trail-ready TKC80s. Suspension is unchanged, with a stock setup of a front 41mm fork, and Pro-Link rear offering 8.6 in. and 7.6 in. of travel respectively. Power from the big single was a useful 45 hp with 39 ft-lb of torque, which likely got a goose from the new exhaust system.
Bold retro graphics inspired by rally raid bikes complete the neo-classic build.
We love that this custom adventure bike looks super cool without being over the top. It also doesn’t look too expensive, like some showbike to be displayed rather than ridden. And that was always the brothers’ intention, to give this bike a second chance. Diego told us what he wants everyone to notice about this project is that Dominator 782 was a motorcycle ready to be sent to the junkyard. Now it has a new life, thanks only to some “aesthetic touches and hand work.”
“There’s always a chance for a new interpretation and a new appeal. It’s the magic of our job.”
Photography by Filippo Molena
Author: Jamie Elvidge
Jamie has been a motorcycle journalist for more than 30 years, testing the entire range of bikes for the major print magazines and specializing in adventure-travel related stories. To date she’s written and supplied photography for articles describing what it’s like to ride in all 50 states and 43 foreign countries, receiving two Lowell Thomas Society of American Travel Writer’s Awards along the way. Her most-challenging adventure yet has been riding in the 2018 GS Trophy in Mongolia as Team AusAmerica’s embedded journalist. -
Photo: Stephen Gregory
‘Tis the gifting season once again, and what better way to help the adventure riders in our lives (heck yeah, that includes ourselves) feel the holiday joy than finding the perfect riding-themed gift? To help with ideas, we’ve curated a Santa’s list that hits all the marks, from keeping you connected to keeping you warm; helping with maintenance, improving safety and even upping your campsite cooking game.
REV’IT! Arid 9L H20 Backpack
When is gifting a cool, purpose-built backpack ever a bad idea. REV’IT! worked with Kriega to develop its Arid 9L H2O backpack. The design incorporates Kriega’s patented ‘Quadloc-Lite’ quick-release harness system, which transfers weight from the wearer’s shoulders to the chest when the bag is fully loaded. The Arid 9L backpack is roomy and expandable, yet low-profile when you want it to be. Construction is rugged ripstop nylon and the design includes a 4L roll-top main compartment that’s fully waterproof. The H20 designation lets you know the pack is ready to accept up to a 3.75L (1 gallon) Hydrapak water reservoir, although that item is sold separately. There’s an adjustable, removable waist belt and mesh backing for comfort. Color choices are Black or Black with Camo Grey.
$219.99 AT REVZILLA Sea to Summit X-Pot Collapsible Kettle and Mug Set
When you’re packing for an adventure tour every centimeter of space counts, and if you’re going to be camping, your choice of gear is especially critical. When we tested this light and compact Sea to Summit X-Set 11, we found it an awesome addition to our camp kit. What you get is a collapsible kettle and two cups, allowing you to prepare hot beverages and freeze-dried meals on the trail.
ADVERTISEMENTThe kettle has heat resistant, flexible silicone walls and a 6063-T6 aluminum base that does the work of converting heat. Glass-reinforced nylon handles are handy for burn-free pours. At first glance $64.95 might seem steep, but this ultralight cook set is less expensive and way more space-efficient than a JetBoil, though it will take longer for water to boil since you’ll be using a conventional backpacking stove. Sea to Summit also sells collapsible coffee drippers and cook pots to complement your ultralight adventure kitchen.
SnapJack XTrail Pro Portable Jack Stand
No center stand, no problem. Give the gift of convenience with a telescoping prop jack stand from SnapJack that provides enough strength and stability to support full size adventure bikes. The unit can be used to hike up the front or rear of your bike for on-the-fly tire repairs and maintenance, and best of all, the device weighs only 13oz and packs down to 10.5 inches. SnapJack’s XTrail prop stand comes with a claw-style base for stability on any surface, while the stainless steel cradle can hold onto the frame, swingarm or bash plate. Aircraft-grade aluminum tubes are h-adjustable, offering seven positions. The XTrail kit includes the telescoping prop stand, locking pin, claw base, cradle/slide-on protective tube, velcro strap, reusable zip tie and rubber non-slip pad.
Alpinestars Tech-Air 3 Airbag Vest
Anything that improves safety for motorcycle riders is a priceless gift, and Alpinestars Tech-Air 3 Airbag Vest does just that, potentially saving a wearer’s life in the event of a crash. The vest incorporates an autonomous active airbag system that is triggered in 50 milliseconds when a crash is detected via 6 integrated sensors (3 accelerometers, 3 gyroscopes or 1 triaxial gyroscope and 1 triaxial accelerometer). With airbags situated across the chest and back, it activates with a magnetic zip closure, while an LED display continuously indicates the airbag’s operational status. There’s also an app to confirm status and charge levels for the device, which boasts battery life of 40 hours with a recharge time of approximately 4 hours. The Tech-Air 3 Airbag vest is lightweight, re-packable, won’t restrict movement and can be worn under or over your motorcycle jacket. It’s intended to benefit city commuters, street riders and light off-road adventure riders.
Rabaconda ADV Tire Changer Kit
We’ve recommended the Rabaconda ADV Tire Changer kit before, and that’s because we can tell you firsthand it rocks. Any adventure rider who’s worked a tire iron will tell you changing tires by hand is an unwelcome chore. And if they’re having the dealer do it, it’s both a time suck and a pain in the wallet. So if you really want to treat your favorite rider (that includes yourself) to the ultimate luxury, this ADV and dual-sport tire changer kit is it. The Kit includes the 3-minute tire changer unit, PRO tire iron set, 2 x 17-inch tire spoon, 12-18mm spindle and 28mm adapter. The secret ingredient with these easy-to-stow kits is leverage, which saves both energy, and knuckles. If easier tire changes are your priority rather than speed and ensuring your wheels remain scratch free, you’ll want to investigate the new Rabaconda Street Bike Tire Changer, which sells for $589 and works on spoke wheels too.
Quad Lock Phone Holder
These days our smartphones have become such an extension of our minds and bodies that we’re used to having them with us all the time. Additionally, they’re extremely useful for GPS navigation on our bikes or keeping up with important notices and calls on the road. They’re also not cheap to replace. When choosing a phone mount, it’s important to keep your expensive phone safe from falling off and tumbling down the trail. The Quad Lock system is a trail proven option for mounting phones on ADV bikes, and you can opt for an additional vibration damper for even more protection. The mount can also be customized with a phone specific case (as opposed to using the universal stick-on mount), and you can choose a range of different bar mount options, including a RAM mount. The Quad Lock is sleeker and more secure than some of the larger X-style mounting systems around, and requires just one hand to lock and unlock the phone from the unit.
Dunlop TrailMax Mission Tires
Dunlop took its time developing its TrailMax Mission tires, investing heavily not only in R&D (It took 30 prototypes to get it right!), but also gathering input from real world riders. The result is a solid 50/50-rated tire that aims to do it all, rather than forcing riders to choose between off-road performance, street performance or longevity. At the same time this isn’t a one-size-fit-all tire. Special care was taken to tune the tires so they would perform up to Dunlop’s high standards on the full range of popular ADV bikes. We don’t take tire recommendations lightly, so you can read about how the TrailMax Missions performed for us during 4,300 miles of rigorous testing over sand, rocks, handpicked dirt, wet and dry twisties and even the dreaded interstate. The gift here is confidence, both in the performance of these tires on a variety of terrain, but also knowing they’ll last for many adventures to come.
TecMate Battery-Safe USB Charging Port
Personal electronics are ubiquitous in modern life, and many adventure riders seek to escape the buzz of information and interruption caused by constant connectivity by getting out on the trail. Yet out on the trail is where it’s most important to keep not only your phone, but devices like your gps and intercom headset charged up and ready for use. Meet The TecMate OptiMate, a smart USB charger that will keep your devices topped up while monitoring any lead-acid, AGM or lithium battery’s energy level, automatically curbing its draw ahead of a problematic battery drain. As a bonus, when your bike needs to sit in the garage for a bit, you can check the charge battery status at a glance. The device is weatherproof and plugs into any standard SAE battery tender cable. If you don’t already have an adaptor on your bike, TecMate sells an easy-to-install quick disconnect SAE battery harness for $9.99.
Oxford Heaterz Premium Adventure Heated HotGrips
Making sure a rider’s hands stay warm in cold weather is not just about comfort, it’s about safety, too. And while many new high-end adventure bikes come equipped with heated grips, the majority of us struggle with cold hands and ensuing numbness and would definitely benefit from the affordable application of Oxford’s universal-fit Heaterz Premium Adventure Heated HotGrips. These ergonomically engineered handlebar grips offer all the features of performance aftermarket grips, with the added benefit of “intelligent heat control” accessed via a “sealed for life” five-setting heat controller. The weatherproof design includes a battery saving mode, though the draw is under 4A with zero back drain current. The grips will fit all 22mm handlebars, with lengths that can be adjusted from 122mm to 132mm. Oxford advertises easy fitment and simple installation as well, assuring this item won’t turn into a gift horse.
Mosko Ectotherm Insulated Heated Jacket
Nothing beats heated under layers when it comes to winter riding comfort, making Mosko’s Ectotherm Insulated Heated jacket a gift that will keep giving on every cold season ride. And with low profile carbon fiber wiring and puffer-style insulation, it will also keep its wearer warm and comfortable off the bike in any season. The jacket connects to the bike via a 12v coax power plug (battery harness included), with heat being regulated by a three-way button. The shell features an articulated cut and is made from water repellent ripstop nylon, while the insulation is fluffy PrimaLoft Gold with Cross Core Technology. There are two zippered hand pockets and one on the chest, with the left hand pocket converting into a stuff sack for easy storage of the garment. Color choices this year are Woodland, or Curry. For more details check out our review of the Ectotherm jacket here.
Author: Jamie Elvidge
Jamie has been a motorcycle journalist for more than 30 years, testing the entire range of bikes for the major print magazines and specializing in adventure-travel related stories. To date she’s written and supplied photography for articles describing what it’s like to ride in all 50 states and 43 foreign countries, receiving two Lowell Thomas Society of American Travel Writer’s Awards along the way. Her most-challenging adventure yet has been riding in the 2018 GS Trophy in Mongolia as Team AusAmerica’s embedded journalist. -
Published on 12.06.2022
Photo: Rob Dabney
You asked for it, they listened. After receiving frequent requests from riders for their classic fabric motorcycle bags, Wolfman Luggage has decided to bring them back in limited supply. Not only are they back, but they will now be available with new refinements and made-to-order designs. In fact, the new line of classic bags will be customizable, allowing customers to even add their own insignias and prints.
Photo: Gregory Luck
Named Wolfman Threadworks, the new custom luggage series is made in the US by master craftsman and owner Eric Hougen, using as many domestic raw materials as possible. Select from five bags: E-Tank bag, E-12s, Daytrippers, E-Duffel or the Multi-Sport Hydration waistpack named the Greg Bag and personalize the luggage to fit your next adventure. Customers can choose from a variety of colors including Black, Red, Yellow, Gold, White, Deep Green, Royal Blue, KTM Orange and custom prints or solids.
Photos: Gregory Luck
The Wolfman Threadworks line will join the company’s 100% waterproof RF welded luggage. Alongside these two lines, Wolfman has also announced the launch of the “Pack” line – made-to-order bicycle bags for customers that are also riding pedal-powered bikes. To develop the line, Wolfman has partnered with Voile for all their mounting straps. Every Pack product is manufactured from the highest quality 1000 Denier USA made Cordura and VX-21 “X-Pac” and offered in a wide range of colors to match your ride.
Photo: Gregory Luck/Will Bender
ADVERTISEMENTThe Wolfman Threadworks and Pack line will launch December 15th. You can check out their release starting that day at wolfmanluggage.com or you can choose to be notified about the Pack line at packforyouradventure.com.
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Published on 12.05.2022
KTM’s in-house suspension specialist, WP, has just released a new version of their XPLOR PRO 6500 cartridge system ― a suspension upgrade for dual sport riders who find the stock set-up doesn’t quite match their requirements on the trail. Previously released for KTM, GasGas and Husky’s high-performance enduros, the new cartridge system has now been adapted to fit the KTM 690 Enduro R (2019-current), Husqvarna 701 Enduro (2020-current) and the recently-launched GasGas ES 700.
Although not cheap, WP says the XPLOR PRO 6500 cartridge was developed to offer an easy and less expensive suspension upgrade by utilizing the standard fork rods to improve the riding experience. The new kit is fully adjustable and features closed cartridge Technology which makes it possible to reduce the oil volume. According to WP, the pressure in the system prevents cavitation and ensures reliable damping performance in demanding track conditions.
The XPLOR PRO 6500 Cartridge offers:
- Adjustable compression damping
- Closed cartridge technology
- Fully adjustable with standard tools
- All adjustments can be made externally
- Better response
- Improved damping behavior
- Higher bottoming resistance
- Fully adjustable to rider’s requirements and circuit conditions
- Improved handling
- Extreme durability
ADVERTISEMENTThe XPLOR PRO 6500 Cartridge is available for €901.60 which is about $951 USD. For more information visit your nearest WP authorized center or go to wp-suspension.com.
MOLLE webbing on the exterior of the Beavertail increases the range of expansion options.
The 14L waterproof sidebags use welded seams and feature a clear window so you can see what’s inside.
External rear pockets on each side are ideal for fuel or water storage.
The default tailbag is the Stinger 8L, which also turns into a backpack or can be used as a stand-alone top bag.
The Reckless 40’s capacity can be easily expanded by replacing the Stinger 8L with a Stinger 22L Tailbag. Also, the Beavertail can be rotated to run your top bag parallel or perpendicular to the bike.
For this ADV Lite setup, the system with all camping gear loaded weighed 31 pounds. The bag alone weighs 10.5 pounds.
The Beavertail includes a clear inner pocket ideal for storing maps, documents and other flat items.
The XR150L features an electric starter with a kick start back up option, an engine balancer to reduce vibrations, as well as an offset crankshaft and roller rockers.
Photo by 
Photo by 
Dispensing hose with on/off valve provides controlled flow and stashes away when not in use.
Hangs from adjustable strap to conveniently fill or dispense potable water.
Empty Canteens roll up or pack flat, saving space. The reservoirs feature high-visibility reflective daisy chains to securely anchor the Cactus Canteen to your motorcycle.
You can choose from a range of different bar mount options, including a RAM Ball. Standard handlebar mounts are built with tough glass-filled nylon while the PRO version utilizes CNC machine aluminum for even greater durability.
The Quad Lock vibration dampener features a dual chassis suspension system with precision engineered silicone grommets that absorb vibrations and protect your smartphone’s camera from high level frequencies.
Kove 450 Rally Pro at EICMA.
Standard 450 Rally model.
The original race bike that started it all, the KTM 950 Rally, had a lot in common with the production model. Photo: KTM
The 950 Adventure S increased displacement to become the 990 Adventure R in 2006, and would continue on with only minor updates until 2012.
The 990 found and rescued after being swept away by raging waters in Mexico.
The V-twin growl from its Leo Vince pipes are a thing of beauty.
We gave our project bike some fresh quarts of Motul 7100, an ester-based full synthetic designed for high-performance bikes like the KTM 990 Adventure.
Changing the fuel filter requires removing the left-side tank and the fuel pump, then disassembling it to access the filter inside the pump itself. While not rocket surgery, there are several steps involved, and replacing all seals is highly recommended.
The old battery was shot so we put in a Fire Power Lithium Battery that puts out 310 cold cranking amps and weighs just 2.4 pounds compared to 230 CCA and 8.6 pounds for the replacement AGM battery.
As many as 18 different fuel maps were tested in an attempt to correct our fueling problem.
Replacing cracked vacuum lines and cleaning the MAP sensors would reveal an entirely new motorcycle.
2005 KTM 950 Adventure S donor bike before it was totaled in a crash.
The fork oil hadn’t been serviced in over a decade. What came out was a nasty chocolate milk color with barely any viscosity.
The suspension swap also required a long ‘S-model’ center stand and kickstand.
We replaced the old fork oil with Motul Synthetic 5W to give the front end that ‘fresh from the factory’ feel.
We swapped the old tires for a fresh set of Dunlop D606 front and D908 Rally Raid rear knobbies to get the bike ready for Baja.
The saddle was refreshed with a new cover from Seat Concepts but the paint is in bad condition and still needs to be addressed.
Stoked to have our 990 back on the trail and we can’t wait to let those twin pipes roar out in the open desert.
“The mechanics are always reliable and functional, so we have revised the entire superstructure. The tank is from a 1989 dominator, while the rest we have created.” – North East Custom.
Bold retro graphics inspired by rally raid bikes complete the neo-classic build.
Photo: Gregory Luck
Photos: Gregory Luck
Photo: Gregory Luck/Will Bender
KTM Drops Plans For Highly-Anticipated 490cc Twin Platform
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A statement from Pierer made to AutoCar India, reveals that the 490cc platform has been scrapped due to the high cost of developing an all-new 490 twin, an engine that was to be built by KTM’s long-time partner in India, Bajaj Auto. As reported, KTM didn’t think the money and effort involved in creating a parallel-twin powerplant of such low capacity from scratch would pay off. Cancellation of the 490 was also confirmed by Executive board member Hubert Trunkenpolz, who told Motorrad the move reflects KTM’s agility in the face of shifting markets. “As a global mobility group, we always react agilely to market developments,” explained Trunkenpolz.
Of course this means an anticipated twin-powered Husqvarna 501 series has also been scrubbed from the drawing board.
Instead, Motorrad says the KTM Group will concentrate on diversifying its LC8c and build a 700-class parallel twin (exact displacement unknown), which would be a scaled down version of the existing 790cc twin found in the Duke. Pierer told AutoCar India the new engine, which will be built by KTM’s Chinese partner, CFMoto, would definitely make more than 70 hp, and while the conversation was based around the competitive midsize naked bike market, it’s highly likely this engine will eventually power a mid-sized adventure bike, too. Also of interest is how this new engine will fit into a lineup that includes a CFMoto-built 790cc LC8c, which would mean there would be 690s, 790s and 890s twins in the KTM stable.
It would also seem likely a 690cc LC8c will step on sales of the existing LC4 big single that powers the 690 Enduro R…or perhaps that model remains to fulfill supermoto and enduro purposes, while the twin is pointed more toward adventure travel. Time will tell. Also of interest is how this new engine will fit into a lineup that includes a CFMoto-built 790cc LC8c, which would mean there would be 690s, 790s and 890s twins in the KTM stable.
This news comes as a blow to adventure riders jonesing for a more off-road capable alternative in a 500cc twin market currently dominated — at least here at home — by Honda’s mild mannered CB500X. But Pierer Mobility marches to a global drummer, and the move to banish a potential 500cc range entry is based entirely on predicting and advancing in the world market.
Yet 500cc range fans can hold out hope that the Aventura 500 Legend from Spanish brand Rieju, announced at EICMA in Milan a few months back, will make its way to American shores. With standard 21” front and 18” rear spoked wheels, skid plate, hand guards, crash bars and a tantalizing 600+ mile range we might forget KTM was even thinking about bringing a 500cc adventure bike to market.
And thankfully it appears the KTM 390 Adventure will not only live on, but in a higher form. Spy shots captured in 2022 revealed a more dirt-focused machine in the works, although when it will be unveiled to the public in its finished form is still unknown.
Author: Jamie Elvidge
Jamie has been a motorcycle journalist for more than 30 years, testing the entire range of bikes for the major print magazines and specializing in adventure-travel related stories. To date she’s written and supplied photography for articles describing what it’s like to ride in all 50 states and 43 foreign countries, receiving two Lowell Thomas Society of American Travel Writer’s Awards along the way. Her most-challenging adventure yet has been riding in the 2018 GS Trophy in Mongolia as Team AusAmerica’s embedded journalist.